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Discussion Starter #1
After a challenging timing belt job, it seems like the immobilizer will not let me start the vehicle. The care continues to start immediately and then die. Pulled codes with VCDS (which I am still getting used to) and this is what I got:
3 Faults Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16612 - Throttle Pedal Position Sensor (G79): Signal too High
P0228 - 35-00 - -
17656 - Start of Injection Timing Regulation: Control Deviation
P1248 - 35-00 - -

Must be immo, right?

Now trying to match the key and the immo (immo 3 btw). Followed the tutorial here but am getting hung up with WSC, date , and importer #. Can't login. Did not aniticipate that being a problem as I don't recall that being in the tutorial. Any help with this would be great. 2002 Golf mk4 alh. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i've been wondering that. as i was doing timing belt work the battery went dead a couple times and i was getting the immo light. now just seem to be getting just the symptom. tried all the tricks in the tutorial except the trickle charger.
 

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Another one bits the dust.
 

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No I'm talking about the immobilzer problem I had when the battery was disconnected http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f4/passat-immobilizer-4472/

But you have other faults listed

VAG Error Code: 16612

Fault Location:
Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor A - high input

Possible Cause:
Wiring short to positive.
Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.

VAG Error Code: 17656
EOBD II Error Code: P1248

Fault Location:
Start of injection - control difference

Possible Cause:
Loss of Power at high Engine Speeds.
Engine difficult to Start.

Start of Injection Timing Regulation not OK.
Injection Pump Control Range blocked/dirty (e.g. by Metal Particles).
Engine has stalled / ran out of Fuel recently.
Wiring/Connectors from/to Injection Valve (N108) faulty.
Injector needle lift sensor.
Fuel level low.
Pump timing.

Possible Solutions:
Check/Adjust Injection Start.
Check Fuel Supply.
Check/Replace Fuse(s).
Check/Repair Wiring/Connectors from/to Injection Valve (N108).

Special Notes:
Might by stored with other codes like 17654/P1246/004678.

As taken from my http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f9/free-eobd-ii-error-codes-software-2919/ ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the responses. haven't been by a computer for a while. timing belt job did not go well. my brother-in-law suggest the "mark the timing belt" method (not remove cam sprocket). It did not go well and could not get the timing correct. Redid putting everything at TDC and removed camshaft. put everything back together (almost) and started up great. and then as i was finishing up, putting tire back on, flushing/adding coolant etc, car would not start. started getting immoblizer light, realized wasn't getting fuel. a real pain. so, the car started up and was running fine. but now only starts up and stops immediately. Could this be symptom of advanced timing. i thought a hard start or no start would be more symptomatic of timing off.
 

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Did you disconnect the battery while you were doing the timing belt job? Thats probably why the immobilizer kicked in. Do a search for immobilizer in FAQ?
 

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That's a hell of a lot of codes for a timing belt job, what happened during it I wonder, emp grenade perhaps?:eek

Here Keith, you should maybe get therapy about that immo problem lol:D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so sent this into the mechanic. Says i need a new timing belt. Quoted me a new one at 1200 plus 500 labor. Any thoughts on this? Not sure how i screwed up the injection pump replacing the timing belt, but it seems like i did. the immobilizer was no longer an issue, i think.
 

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You can't screw up the injection pump just by doing a timing belt job unless you remove the center bolt and loosen the grey hub. It may need an adjustment in timing though, what is the current problem since there's been some thread drift?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well, i took it into the shop thinking it was the immobilizer. starting right up and then stalling after 1-2 seconds. i definitely did not touch the center bolt. What I think might have happened is that during the job, the injection pump lost its prime and I tried starting it w/o fuel. they said they checked the timing and it was good.
 

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I don't think cranking without fuel would kill the pump, I cranked mine fairly hard when I ran out of fuel once, never had any effect on the pump and it still hasn't and that was about 20,000 miles ago at least. I don't suppose it's ideal but I lacked the knowledge I have now. It might be worth going over the timing belt again but this time locking everything in place, the crank has it's mark on the gear box end and the camshaft has the slot in the end that should sit level, the pump has a hole for the locking tool but you should be able to get it more or less reasonably accurate with a bolt or other round piece of metal. I just think it would be worth triple checking that everything is in the right place. Was it a dealer or trusted mechanic who looked at the car?:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The mechanic has a good reputation but my first time with them. They are saying that there is not enough fuel getting to the engine and the injection pump is responsible. Is there anyway to test? Would bleeding an injector line at the injector, turning it over, and evaluating the pressure, give me an idea of how well the injection pump is working? I think I am going to take it home, double check all the timing before getting the pump rebuilt.
 

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I don't think you can evaluate the pressure with the pump in line unless you have a testing rig. If you crack open a fuel line at the injector, wrap a thick rag around it and it's wet, you are getting fuel.

FYI, even if you lose prime, the injection pump is still filled about 1/3 with fuel. It will not be damaged by cranking it like that since there's enough fuel to lubricate the insides. This can be easily verified by removing the pump and tilting it, lots of fuel will spill out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thanks for the response guys. i will be getting the car back in a few days and will take a fresh look at things. one other thought. before sending it to the mechanic, when i was trying to prime the IP i could not pull fuel through the pump to prime it, i had to push fuel with an extra fuel pump. is that an indication of a dying pump? You guys are making me very suspect of this new IP diagnosis since the car was starting and running fine before my timing job.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
after talking to the mechanic again they said that the car would run if they had compressed air in the fuel tank forcing the fuel up to the pump.
 
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