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We have a 2014 Passat TDI that suffered the failure shortly after the 20k service. I also KNOW no gas ( have pumped all the diesel myself) the only thing I don't have control over is fuel at the pump.

We have had a loaner while being fixed- first the fuel rail then seals now the HPFP.

I had read where poor lubrication by fuel - but on at least half the tanks have gotten additives.
 

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I'm pleased at the dealer response ( anything mechanical will break) no arguing- feel treated well. I have read many horror stories about VW service. I will take it out for a road trip tomorrow - 6 hour drive. I plan on getting lube additive before trip.
 

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Seems hit or miss - one will say never used any additive or always.

As soon as I got it home after the repair- I added lube just in case the last tank was a problem- not a known regurly bought diesel from. ( still a shell station).

I will add some from now on - again I don't think I SHOULD have to buy additives - but sure has to be cheaper than new HPFP.

Ran after repair to East Texas from San Antonio w no problems and steady 80- 85+ mph on toll way. With a 39mpg .

Hope no one else has to go through this .
Robert
 

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Seems hit or miss - one will say never used any additive or always.

As soon as I got it home after the repair- I added lube just in case the last tank was a problem- not a known regurly bought diesel from. ( still a shell station).

I will add some from now on - again I don't think I SHOULD have to buy additives - but sure has to be cheaper than new HPFP.

Ran after repair to East Texas from San Antonio w no problems and steady 80- 85+ mph on toll way. With a 39mpg .

Hope no one else has to go through this .
Robert
Here's the thing, Robert.....

There is one study that has been done on additives and what they do to lubricity.

At the time, some of those that claimed to make things better actually reduced the lubricity. Others helped, but not much.

... and the study was done in 2007. It needs to be done again.

B5 is actually pretty good compared to pure petrodiesel. I think if I was really convinced that I need to do something, I'd probably add 2% biodiesel to each tank. Adding a little more Biodiesel to B5 would just make B7.

B10 is actually allowed and covered by VW warranty in Illinois, they warn you to watch your crankcase levels.
 

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That is up to B20 in Illinois. I generally use the B5-B20 available near me and have been for over a year. No issues. I have tried additives but don't want to deal with the drawbacks handling/storing them. At 40k now and like the car very much.
 

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That is up to B20 in Illinois. I generally use the B5-B20 available near me and have been for over a year. No issues. I have tried additives but don't want to deal with the drawbacks handling/storing them. At 40k now and like the car very much.
I don't live in Illinois, so I didn't get a copy of the warranty letter from VW.

Biodiesel appears to be an excellent additive if you want to improve lubricity. In 49 states, we're limited to B5 at risk of ruining the emissions system.

As I remember reading, if you use higher than B5, VW warns that you need to check the crankcase level periodically, as the oil level may rise.
 

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Here is my main problem- in San Antonio I can buy diesel at the same place ( assuming similar quality). When I am away from home I have no good reference other than near a highway I assume adequate volume delivered.
I hate the idea ( expense) of additives. I don't but them in my gas car and it is REAL sensative to quality (turbo hates bad/low octane. There is never a posted cetane level to compare... BOO
 

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Here is my main problem- in San Antonio I can buy diesel at the same place ( assuming similar quality). When I am away from home I have no good reference other than near a highway I assume adequate volume delivered.
I hate the idea ( expense) of additives. I don't but them in my gas car and it is REAL sensative to quality (turbo hates bad/low octane. There is never a posted cetane level to compare... BOO
This is a good read: http://www.chevron.com/documents/pdf/DieselFuelTechReview.pdf

It explains a lot of things, like why there is no useful difference between fuel that meets ASTM exactly, and 45 cetane "premium" diesel.

What we need instead of the Cetane number is some kind of lubricity rating.
 

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My HPFP failed coincidentally on a road trip and not knowing the place I refuelled. I did read that one and many articles on US diesel - and how biodiesel is so much better ( lube) but not for the DPF.
I would like SOME way to shop the diesel fuel. I do for 93 octane.. Near my house they sell " DEISEL" I want to go in and get it corrected...lok
 

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I would like SOME way to shop the diesel fuel. I do for 93 octane.. Near my house they sell " DEISEL" I want to go in and get it corrected...lok
The big danger is some idiot delivery truck driver dropping the wrong load in the wrong tank.

I too wish we could pick, but not by Cetane, by lubricity.

Octane is important for gasoline because too low and it knocks (preignition). The same mechanism that cause gasoline engines to knock causes diesel engines to run.

Maybe part of the answer is to carry a couple of gallons of B100, and add a pint on so when you refuel.
 

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I don't live in Illinois, so I didn't get a copy of the warranty letter from VW.

Biodiesel appears to be an excellent additive if you want to improve lubricity. In 49 states, we're limited to B5 at risk of ruining the emissions system.

As I remember reading, if you use higher than B5, VW warns that you need to check the crankcase level periodically, as the oil level may rise.

I have been checking and no issue so far. The 2014 Infineum fuel survey gave me confidence to not use an additive other than bio percentage diesel.

http://www.infineum.com/media/80722/...ull-screen.pdf

I believe that the fuel is good enough that an additive is not needed, especially with any bio percentage. If there is a problem an additive probably wouldn't have helped anyway. 40k just done and fuel filter and everything else looked great!
 

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I'd be watching your filter for additional metal particles real close.. how much of the fuel system did they replace of flush following the HPFP failure? I recently had my 2012 in following the discovery of metal in the filter, and VW won't do anything at this time, except charge me $120 to say they looked at it and will do nothing. Metal is not normal, I own 2 diesels, and have had a diesel since 2005.. NEVER should you see metal in the filter... it means something is wearing out, in this system the most likely place is the roller/cam that drives the piston in the HPFP.. I'm convinced this is a poor design, and way too lubricity sensitive (I do run Stanydyne additive). When it fails, as you have no doubt seen, it is sudden, without warning and the car won't start. What is worse, on the 2012 -2009 (likely still same up to current) the fuel lubricating the failing cam/roller has a flow path into the HP piston, then to the injectors, AND recirculation flow back to the filter housing and then back to the fuel tank!! So the entire system is likely to have some amount of contamination when the HPFP fails.. this is horrible design, and has been an issue for as long as this pump has been in service, and a similar 2 piston version of this Bosch (CP4.2, VW TDI is CPO4.1) pump is a problem on the Ford and GM diesel trucks as well. The cam/roller is the issue.

Check out this extensive thread on the TDIclub forum: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=308323&highlight=hpfp

I was looking here to see if there was more on this pump as well.

There is an answer that I will likely try, a kit to put a proven reliable CP3 on mine, despite forgoing warranty coverage when I do this.. I just don't trust the car, if they can fail just past 20K, I've got less than 45k, but there is no warning.. warranty does not help when stranded on the side of the road, or worse, rear ended from a sudden loss of power and some idiot behind you not paying attention.. It is very unfortunate that it takes a brilliant guy in Ontario and some forum helpers to come up with a proper solution when VW continues to deny the problems with this pump.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=375803&highlight=2micron

So, from my extensive study, and engineering background (and current work), there are multiple issues with the pump, one is it is very sensitive to poor lubricity in the fuel, the next is VW put it on cars and sold in US where the lubricity is known to be inconsistent and typically poor. The older proven CP3 is a totally different design, more complex, clearly more expensive to manufacture, and sell, but proven reliable, even with US fuel, my Cummins has a version of CP3. CP3 has NO CAM/ROLLERS.. NONE.. that is key, it uses 3 pistons and a triangular follower over a crank shaft to push the 3 pistons, sequentially, this means less stress and sensitivity to lubrication in the moving parts.. thus more reliable, more expensive.. but WORTH the cost to not have a ticking time bomb of a HPFP that is the CP4.x

In summary, additives will lessen the risk, but the design is still not a good one, and Murphy says the additives make it more likely the pump gets past the warranty, then dies leaving you a 6-10 K repair bill, or at least $2K in parts and 2 months trying to get it back on the road.. there is an odyssey of a guy on the TDIclub trying the DIY approach.. not sure it ever ended in a running car..
 

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This may have been reported already but I just stopped in for my first oil change on a 15 Passat tdi. I asked about the hpfp issue. The shop manager said the warranty on the pump is being extended to 120k. And also fuel additive not recommended
 

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This may have been reported already but I just stopped in for my first oil change on a 15 Passat tdi. I asked about the hpfp issue. The shop manager said the warranty on the pump is being extended to 120k. And also fuel additive not recommended
OK, they did not extend the warranty because the pimps never fail.. VW knows this is a real problem. For additives, they are almost the wild west.. Many out there.. Not all good, some may make it worse. Stanydyne is a fuel injection company that also does additives.. I'd say as do many they are safe, and can't hurt. I'm just not happy knowing these pumps fail without warning.. That part is what gets me most concerned. On the TDR forum one guy's 2012 failed and his wife had to have 2 homeless guys help push it out of traffic just past a bridge.. After 9 repair attempts under warranty VW offered buy back or no cost 2014.. He took new car but there are failues reported in 2015s as well with just over 20k, no misfuel.
Now at my dealer the service writers claimed ignorance at first, but the technician told be in SoCal he worked 5-6 failed HPFPs a week! The cashier as I begrudgingly paid $120 for them to do nothing admitted many upset customers lately.. So there is a bit of PR spin going on with this issue for sure.
 

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Hi, i just got my 2012 Golf back from the dealer after being repaired, for the second time, for a failed HPFP. The car has 51,000 miles and all of the maintenance is current. I feel as though the dealer is not being completely honest with me and played off the second HPFP failure as random part failure instead of a design flaw. I have the invoice with part # for the repair but would like to know if there is an alternate fuel pump that can replace my factory unit. I am not looking forward to a 3rd HPFP failure.
 

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Hi, i just got my 2012 Golf back from the dealer after being repaired, for the second time, for a failed HPFP. The car has 51,000 miles and all of the maintenance is current. I feel as though the dealer is not being completely honest with me and played off the second HPFP failure as random part failure instead of a design flaw. I have the invoice with part # for the repair but would like to know if there is an alternate fuel pump that can replace my factory unit. I am not looking forward to a 3rd HPFP failure.
The only option I'm aware of is the CP3 conversion kit by 2Microntech over at tdiclub.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=367804

I've looked at the intenals of the failed CP3 pumps, no one can convince me it is a good design. You second failure was likely from contamination left over from the first failure. The cam/roller is hypersensitive to fuel quality, when it fails it sends hard metal pariculate to all areas from tank to injector, it difficult to clean up that mess.
 
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