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I found this handy video showing the procedure. The guy's wife likes to hit rocks so it was the 3rd time they changed the oil pan! A skidplate would have been a good investment there. The plastic splash pan is only good for water and dust/small glancing blows. It can't protect against a rock big enough to damage the oil pan. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/Skid-plate-install.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q51ws737EEQ

Some things they didn't mention in the video are torque specs. The oil pan is tightened to 15 NM or 11 ft lb. Some things that might not be 100% obvious: the oil pan gasket surfaces should be dry and clean. The line of gasketmaker must go inboard of the bolt holes to form a continuous gasket. Hopefully this can help someone!
 

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In this video, he doesn't say WHY he is moving the crank...

It depends if it's a auto trans or manual... It is necessary to move the flywheel on the manual transmission's flywheel because there is a slot in the flywheel on the side toward the engine. If you line up the slot in the flywheel with the two bolts that go into the rear main seal, they are a LOT easier to remove and install. We use a 10mm 1/4" drive socket on a 6" extension to remove screws. When reinstalling the screws, and especially for the screws going toward the flywheel, we use a 6" long 5mm ball-end allen socket.

Before any screws are tightened, get all screws installed. HAND-TIGHTEN the screws to be sure you don't strip any.

Also, be sure to wipe all the oil away from the seal area. Oil dripping from the back corner near the flywheel has ruined many a sealing job. Any oil going across the sealing area will cause a 'do over'.

We prefer using either the Reinz or Dirko Hylomar sealant for a longer setup time.
 
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