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First, get the VCDS and do some more datalogging. Then worry about replacing stuff.
It should move when revving the engine. If you can move it by hand 1/2", you're getting full travel. It's hard to describe proper spring resistance by writing about it, but it should be able to be pressed down by hand force against the spring inside the VNT can. It should return to start by itself.
These codes below, clear them with VCDS and see if they come back.
1411 is EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve Open/Short To Ground. Check for shorts.
1549 is Boost Pressure Contr. Valve short to ground . This is N75, it may go away since you replaced the N75
BTW, I also saw this posted elsewhere
and the video showing movement and the video I have here:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a4/VNTadjust.htm
could be a bit misleading since the lever isn't attached to the can and the spring. In the video, I was moving the lever with a piece of fishing wire, to give you an idea of how light it should move with the lever removed from the spring loaded can.
It should move when revving the engine. If you can move it by hand 1/2", you're getting full travel. It's hard to describe proper spring resistance by writing about it, but it should be able to be pressed down by hand force against the spring inside the VNT can. It should return to start by itself.
These codes below, clear them with VCDS and see if they come back.
1411 is EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve Open/Short To Ground. Check for shorts.
1549 is Boost Pressure Contr. Valve short to ground . This is N75, it may go away since you replaced the N75
BTW, I also saw this posted elsewhere
and the video showing movement and the video I have here:http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a4/VNTadjust.htm
could be a bit misleading since the lever isn't attached to the can and the spring. In the video, I was moving the lever with a piece of fishing wire, to give you an idea of how light it should move with the lever removed from the spring loaded can.
