VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here are Pics of my TB change. I have never done a TB on any car and I had lots of help from this forum / the write-ups / and the most recent Bently's.

Here is the post with all my questions and answers for reference. I am only posting pics here.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f7/2006-jetta-brm-tb-questions-comments-6274/

I ordered the TB kit from DieselGeek, which shipped that very same day.
I ordered the TB tools from DieselGeek made by Metalnerd (including the new crank holder)
I ordered 2 1.5 liters of Pentosin coolant.
Used a Craftsman Torque Wrench-which did very well.
I built an engine safty holding device out of 2x4. See pics below.

The job took a while because I had meetings/work and stopped to photograph everything.

Please forgive the size of the pics.

Here is the wooden rig I built to use as a safety backup for holding the engine.






All the parts removed from the job. Missing is the turbo air duct.


The Metalnerd crankshaft holding tool


The slider pin goes into the slot in the engine block. The screws go onto the sprocket. Its aligned when the raised bump on the sprocket is in the bottom circle of the jig:








The Camshaft holding pin goes into the top. Both the Cam and Crank sliders should go easy. If its tight adjust the crank by a mm or 2. Its very very precise!


Drained the Old Coolant:


Fully stripped engine


The Water Pump hole:


Supported the engine with jack a 2x4 with cardboard. The tape measure helped me gage if the engine was sinking/jack leaking.. which it did. I used the car's jack next to it and it did better. Luckily I had the 2X4 Jig as a safety.



Old Coolant VS New. The Old looks more orange than the fresh pink: 80,000 miles.


Old Timing Belt VS New (80K)



Old Water Pump Vs New




Old Idler vs New


To be Continued...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Old tensioner vs New



The new Belt Installed:




Tensioner Installed: Note the alignment tab at the top. It came loose and I had to reset it with out gouging the belt.


New Water Pump installed:






SUCCESS!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
LOL Yes it is! I can't believe its really not as hard as I thought. A little tedious at times, but totally do able. It drives and runs great! I bought it used and it use to shake when I turned on the AC and added extra load to the engine. No more shake. The timing was off a bit and this has added extra HP too. Everything feels... sharp... more crisp, if you will.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
Thanks, I was wondering how the new metalnerd tool works. I will add some of these pictures to the FAQ article for reference.

Do they provide those bolts or were those part of your timing belt kit? If the bolts are too long than they will go through the crank sprocket and damage the front seal flange = oil leak.

How much play is there on the tool around the little nub? Does the tool say what the purpose of the 4th hole is? The BEW/BHW's nub is in the same spot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I was wondering how the new metalnerd tool works. I will add some of these pictures to the FAQ article for reference.

Do they provide those bolts or were those part of your timing belt kit? If the bolts are too long than they will go through the crank sprocket and damage the front seal flange = oil leak.

How much play is there on the tool around the little nub? Does the tool say what the purpose of the 4th hole is? The BEW/BHW's nub is in the same spot.
The bolts are provided with the tool in one package, and come with the tool set only. They are finger tight bolts but had a 6mm allen hole in case they get stuck. When the rig is installed it is VERY tight. There is no play what so ever. The bolts are not long enough to damage anything and they are finger tight only (unless you use an allen).

One of the holes does nothing on this engine. The diagrams that came with the instructions shows it being used on other engines. It is used to store the bolts with the tool while not in use. For this engine The top is a bolt, the second hole is empty, the third is a bolt and the forth centers on the circle raised "bump".

Install the gig to the crank shaft first with the two bolts and the bump will automatically be centered. Ignore the arrow. Then when the engine is properly aligned insert the pin. For other engine types including the other BRM style, the jig works in various configurations. Here are the engines it is used for according to the instructions.

ALH, BEW, BHW, BRM (both types). Like I said its VERY VERY precise and tight. If the engine is 1/2 millimeter off, it will be tight and the top cam pin will also be very very tight.

I cheated and put the crank locking pin in and then rotated the engine to fit the bolts. This works too. With the new belt on the machining on the cam and crank pins was so exact that vacuum pressure causes resistance pulling the pins out!

When it came in the mail.. I was like "what the heck is this thing"? But I read the sheet with it and figured it out. I guess since the BRM had two possible types of crank locking, they may have been sick of swapping them out and had someone design this one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I also have a ton more pics of this. Including extreme close ups of the motor mounts and the new Green frieghtliner serpentine belt. The kit also came with a serpentine belt locking pin too. Let me know if you need to use any more pics and I'll be happy to send them your way. I have an excellent macro lens and can get very extreme close up pics of anything you need.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
Sure, feel free to post them here or use your photo album. Not all will make it into the writeup as to keep it brief but I can link to this post for additional reading. Please resize them down to a reasonable size though so it's viewable. The sizes above are fine, I mean when people upload a 20" wide picture it makes it hard to view.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Wow! I'm impressed with the photos. Also, what a clean and neat job you did. Probably better than any dealership would have done.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
50 Posts
Nice work, thanks for taking the time to document it.

Does the engine normally hang down that low? Or is that after you removed the motor mount?

With 2 cans of A/F did you end up with extra?

Is there any way the crank stay can be installed in the wrong holes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Wow! Excellent work. As an aside, if you performed that job where I live, the city's code enforcement team would be out in an instant to write a $250 citation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Hi CinemaTodd
Thanks for pics & notes.
As I will have done only 27k at 4yrs I think I will just replace the belt. Or just check it by removing top cover to look at it.
If I just replace the belt (and do not remove the engine mount) I understood you could not use a torque wrench on the tensioner. What did you do o tension it?
Many thanks
Michael (UK) Golf 1.9 DSG 2007
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top