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yep, the first seal often leaks. You need that socket, also available from metalnerd, or you can just hammer on a smaller socket but this obviously damages the bolt.

I have some pics that I have been trying to organize, here they are.
The torx bolts are t26 or t30, I forget which.
The short ones are 35mm long and have a 6mm thick head, so the shaft is 29mm long.
The long triangle bolt goes through 2 layers and is 69mm-7mm head, 29mm threaded, in case you want to replace it.
 

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It's super easy, remove the top 3 torx bolts and the 1 security bolt. Jon A put a link to where you can buy it, here is metalnerds website

http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm

Important: wad lots of paper towels around the IP between the head and the pump. The IP is tilted slightly back and when you open the cover, about 1/4 cup of fuel will spill out. Don't let it get onto the rubber hoses because it can corrode them. Don't worry aobut putting paper towels in front of the pump because all the fuel will spill back.
 

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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all of the suggestions. It is the top seal that I want to replace, but .... should I do both of them at the same time? Or is it better to do one and check results and only change them on an as needed basis?

I put 300K miles on my 81 diesel Rabbit in 12 years, and I never had to replace any seals. Why?
 
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oh boy...the top seal takes 5 minutes.

The middle seal requires you to remove the middle section, the quantity adjuster. If you don't put it exactly back and use a vag com to check, your car will be messed up. If you put it even slightly wrong, a vag com will be useless and your injection pump would have to be taken to a specialist.

I highly suggest that you only change the top seal. Who knows why the rabbit needs a seal and yours does now? It could just be fuel additives, seal quality, and the luck of the draw. Why do some people get lemons and some people get a perfect car?
 
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