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Discussion Starter #1
Help me please, I am desperate!!!! I dont want to spend a fortune on my car when we have no idea what is going on! ONE year ago my car wouldnt start for a week, the mechanic that it got transfered to got in and it started right up! So they couldnt run any tests because it started... it did it one more time during the summer of 2006, i stopped at the bank and ran out to my car and it wouldnt start. After a few mins it started. My check engine light had been on for a long time but it was for my glow plug harness and relay and turbo. So... Finally got my car fixed in March they replaced the harness and relay and my exhaust broke so they refabed that... in June my car started with it again not starting... it probably did it atleast 6 times, i'd run into a store and it wouldnt start... i turn the key and it cranks with power but something isnt clicking... I replaced my fuel filter and it didnt happen for almost a month. I just got a recall notice from the local VW dealer that the previous owner bought my car saying my EGR has a recall.... soo.... As of 7pm last night my car would not start for 2hours! I had to get a ride home and it's going to get picked up today by AAA. :confused::mad::eek: Any suggestions or similar problems?
 
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First, check if the recall has been done.

Second, you say that the fuel filter has been changed, so that shouldn't be a problem. The car is cranking so that's a good sign.

Possibilities: the anti-shudder valve is stuck closed or the injection pump isn't giving fuel. This picture is the anti-shudder valve - it's similar to a throttle - if it's stuck closed it will result in a no-start. See the lever in the picture? You can move it back and forth with your hand. It should be spring loaded and return to the open position. If the intake manifold is clogged, the carbon buildup could be causing it to stick closed.

another possibility is that there is a short in the electrical system and the solenoid that shuts off the fuel is cutting off the fuel.




the general location is by the red #1. halfway between #2 and #4 is a wire and solenoid. That is the fuel shut off. Tap it with a hammer (not on the wire, on the body) and see if that makes a difference. Also check for air bubbles in the fuel lines, you'll be able to see them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks!

thank you so much, i'm going to talk it over w/ all my people, it started this am, but im afraid that it's going to happen again some time soon.
 
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your car also has something called an immobilizer, but it won't affect the cranking and starting - with a immobilizer, it will still start but would shut off after a few seconds
 

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If it's cranking, you can rule out the starting circuit, timing belt, etc.

You just need air, fuel, and compression.

You know you have compresssion, you just need to figure out if you have air - the only thing which could stop air is the anti-shudder valve - make sure it's open as directed in the instructions above and you should be golden. Even if the intake manifold was clogged with carbon, the engine should still sputter.

Fuel is more tricky - I doubt the fuel pressure is low, something is not delivering fuel.
 

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aye..

so... they were just guessing that last night, i stopped in to talk to them after my car started, then it wouldnt start again so they pushed it into the garage... he hooked it up to the computers and it started... but the ecu wasnt responding and my car has been acting funny, i cant open or close my windows w/ my keys anymore and my alarm will go off randomly.... so hopefully it continues to act up for them today. cant wait for the labor bill of this one.
 

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okay, that also helps - if you are having these electrical problems then it's probably not the anti-shudder valve. What I think your problem could be:

1. Faulty or shorted ignition switch -
2. Possible relay 109 bad - pic below
3. coolant migration - I posted a link above with how to check for coolant migration, causes random electrical problems

if your relay 109 is black, it is the old one and could be causing this
if your relay 109 is grey, it is the new one and is okay
 

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Discussion Starter #10
but...

if the car cranks over that wouldnt be the ignition would it? i think the humidity may be a problem, i live in wisconsin... hah
 

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yeah, you are right...at this point, it would be best for your mechanic to run some tests, if they say the ECU is bad, that is a very real possibility, for all we know it could be 2 separate problems causing an occasional no start.

check the anti-shudder valve, coolant tank for leakage, and fuel shut off solenoid as noted in my pic above. Like miker said, you need fuel, air, compression. You already know you have compression since the car will start, the only thing which could stop air is the anti-shudder valve, fuel is the big question.
 

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they were saying that if it is the ecu, that the car may not recognize it and the ecu wont turn the fuel on to my car as a security precaution.... they've been testing all day and havent heard a word yet. The mechanic has a 00 tdi too and the correct computers to read, thank god. I am really glad that I found this forum with people willing to help. Thanks!
 
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if the mechanic has an 00 jetta tdi, i think they could just remove his ecu, swap it, then test. That would be a quick and easy way to check if your ecu is faulty.

The immobilizer is in the instrument panel and the key, so it shouldn't have any affect on this test. Also, a bad immobilizer will let the car start and run, it will just shut off the engine after 3 seconds.
 

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This probably isn't your problem, but if there are lots of bubbles in the clear fuel lines, it could indicate a bad o ring at the fuel filter. It lets in too much air and the car can have problems starting.

When it's really cold, the fuel filter recirculates so any air leaks will get multiplied. The fuel pump is self priming though, so it should work it self out if it's just one or two bubbles. If you don't see motion, then there are no bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ecu

they just called to officially tell me it is my ecu that has defected. 600 something for a used one w/ maybe a 90 day warranty and 900 something w/ 12 month 12,000 mile warranty
 
J

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you can go to a junkyard and get a used one for $100-300.

Go to car-part.com and search for a ecu near you. You can even install it yourself as long as you have a vag-com. You would have to ask the junkyard what the warranty is.
Labor to install should only be 1 hour, but that doesn't include all the time they spent diagnosing this.

Of course, you also have to set the immobilizer to accept the new ecu. You need a VAG-COM cable with full version software, you can't get it on ebay, to do this, if you don't have this then you have to let the repair shop do it.


here are more details, copied below
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer2.html
The immobilizer will prevent the car from running without a matching key microchip. There is a symbol in the instrument cluster showing a key inside a car. If a new (or different ECU) is installed in the vehicle, the immobilizer will prevent the car from running and will cause the symbol to flash. Here is the procedure to introduce a new ECU to the instrument cluster. This must be performed each time ECU's are exchanged. This does not apply to installing a "chip" in the same ECU that is already aligned with the car.

Immo-3 knows your car's VIN. Access 17-Instruments (or separate 25-Immobilizer on vehicles that are set up that way) and look at the first "Extra" field.

If you see something like: "Immo-ID VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got Immo-2 (or maybe even Immo-1 in earlier non-US models).

If you see something like "WVZKB58001H231169 VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got
Immo-3. The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID.

Install the new ECU in the car
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Adaptation - 10]
Leave channel at "00"
[Read]
[Save]


[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[Exit]


Turn ignition OFF for 15 seconds. Start vehicle.



MAKE SURE you are getting a 2000 ecu, if you get a 2001+ ecu, it needs extra steps to work. Of course, if you just pay the repair shop to do this, they will do it all for you so it won't matter
 
J

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So how did it turn out?

$600 might have been a little high, but if they are getting the parts for you, they already did the diagnostic, and they are giving you a warranty on parts and labor, that's not really so bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
still

Still dont have my car yet... He ordered the part on Monday if he didnt get it yesterday he got it today.... It was a part that was in Wisconsin, and The warranty is like 3 months i think... the factory i think was a year or 12,000 miles which isnt a year for me. Considering they've had my car a week... he said it should take a couple hours and he'd have it done.... hopefully they now dont go over 600 dollars. I cant afford it as it is... Sadly tomorrow we're supposed to put atleast 500 dollars down on our reception hall for our wedding.
 
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Wow, congrats! Hopefully your car will be fixed and you can have a trouble free wedding!
 

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Congrats! $600 isn't high for diagnosis, a few hours of labor, putting it back in, making calls to find the ECU, giving you a labor warranty if it is no good, and many garages give you a free tow if you have it fixed at thier shop. Good luck!
 
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