[TedStriker]

Hi,

Just a quickie to say Hello and introduce myself - Currently living in Leeds, UK, driving a 2003 VW Bora (Jetta) TDI 150 Sport... Been googling about as I've fairly suddenly developed a blue smoky exhaust which looks like it may well be turbo seals. Car has 210,000 miles but this has been almost exclusively m-way and a new engine was fitted under warranty by VW at 60k. Going strong on original clutch.

Not afraid of getting the spanners out, I also have access to an old (311) version of Vag Com if anyone local wants codes read/reset etc

Any quick advice on diagnosing the turbo would be welcomed, I'm planning on disconnecting the intercooler hose to see if oil pours out and possibly the turbo intake to check for spindle play - am I heading the right way?

Thanks,
Graham

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Yes.

Watch out for leaky turbo oil seals because it can lead to a runaway engine: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/stop-runaway-diesel-engine-how-to.htm

The mileage isn't huge but I wouldn't be surprised if the turbo was in fact leaking by now. I'm not sure how the ARL looks but it should be similar to the ALH, there's a FAQ article on how to remove the turbo.

 

[TedStriker]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply - I've seen a few runaway videos on ebay, scary stuff! The car's going nowhere until I've checked that the intercooler's not full of oil! I've noticed occasional drips of oil from the lowest point of the intercooler piping for years now, but never had any symptoms of possible turbo seal leaks such as oil use and blue smoke until now.

As for the ARL engine, the main difference as far as I'm aware from other PDs is that it has the front mounted intercooler so the piping's a little different. Can't see it being a big difference but it'll be the first turbo I'll have removed so kind of uncharted territory for me.

Managed to get a photo of the engine bay, might even be a little easier with the routing of the pipes?

Cheers,
Graham

 

[Seatman]

Same old same old, just a pile of nuts and bolts but some are just tricky sods lol, the Bora's a nice looking motor.

welcometomyturbodies

 

[TedStriker]

Hi,

Further update - connected up VAG COM and the only codes are for the climatronic system (have had those for ages, flap position sensor).

One problem that has started around the same time is that the car's really hard to start from cold. It initially feels as if it's starting straight away but seems to just fire once then die. Eventually starts after multiple attempts like this (10 or so). If it doesn't fire the once initially then it will just keep cranking without starting. Maybe unrelated?

A couple of garages have had a look and also suggested possible piston rings/bore wear or valve seals but that was after just a description of symptoms, not any real diagnosis. Any way of ruling these out? I'd have thought those sort of problems would come on far more gradually.

Just a thought - this thread is still in the 'new members' area, would it be a good idea to move it to a more appropriate place now to reach a wider audience? Not that I'm not happy with the advice so far of course!

Thanks,
Graham

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Post moved to mk4 section and title changed to be a little more descriptive.

One thing about the PD engines is worn camshafts, see the FAQ articles for more on this problem.

Hard start is normally cam timing or fuel leak. Possible loss of prime somewhere. You could also try making sure the lift pump in fuel tank is working. If it's not but rest of fuel lines are OK, it's possible that the tandem pump on engine is keeping you running.

To determine if the engine is not tight, a leakdown test and compression test can help, any garage can do these.

 

[Keithuk]

Welcome to the forum Graham. welcometomyturbodies

Hi,

Further update - connected up VAG COM and the only codes are for the climatronic system (have had those for ages, flap position sensor).

Can copy and paste the VAG.COM log file?

As for poor starting you could unplug the coolant temp sensor that will force a longer heat time on the glow plugs to see if its heat related.

 

[TedStriker]

Bora 150 Turbo blown

Hi,

Thanks for all your suggestions, looks like the starting problems is related to the temp sensor. Unplugged that, the glow plug light stayed on for a good 10 seconds and it started immediately.

But... the turbo's now being reconditioned, got it out a few days ago (a tricky job but certainly not something you should be afraid of) and the intercooler piping's soaked with oil so I'm pretty sure we've found the culprit. There is also a coating of oil on the intake piping before the turbo, I assume this is from the PCV system and nothing to worry about?

Couple of questions. I managed to mangle the turbo oil feed pipe and people have been suggesting to replace it with a flexible one - any good links for getting hold of one of these? Also, the PCV 'puck' as I think it's called has split from the valve cover - is this replaceable? The guys fixing the turbo thought it came as a unit with the valve cover.

Thanks for your continued help...

Graham

 

[chittychittybangbang]

I would be wary of flexible oil lines since they can vibrate and wear, depending on the quality of the line. An ebay line might not be up to standard but full AN fittings (military aviation grade) obviously would. That's definitely not one place you want to cheap out and the OEM hardline isn't too expensive. The oil line for your ARL engine is : 038 145 711 n (038145711n).

The parts catalog shows it as part of the valve cover. If they can't repair it, see if it has a part number printed on it and you might be able to find a replacement.

Yes, a little bit of oil in the intake piping is from the CCV system, it's not spring loaded like a PVC but same idea.

 

[TedStriker]

Hi
Just thought I'd update the thread to help anyone in a similar situation. The reconditioned turbo went on today, complete with replacement oil feed pipe and a new set of nuts and bolts to replace all the stripped out ones I found when dismantling (thank you, Mr 'specialist' garage who did the head gasket!).

Started it up, let it tick over, exhaust was clear but within ten minutes or so I was getting clouds of blue smoke, at idle or when revving, at least as bad if not worse than before. Was so bad I had to turn it off as the neighbours were looking distinctly unhappy (but not as unhappy as I right then!). Thought I'd wait till it got dark then go for a very leisurely drive to see if it got any better, must have been 10 miles or so before I noticed there was no more smoke. Carried on for 50 miles and now it's all fine. I'm guessing the exhaust must have filled up with oil when the turbo went. Slight smoking from the turbo area when stood still but it was covered in fresh oil when it came back from the reconditioners so I guess that'll stop soon enough as it burns away.

All in all the turbo replacement isn't for the faint hearted but it's not a formidable job and no part of it is particularly difficult. Garages were quoting in the region of £1000 for the job, it cost me £300 for the recon (1 year guarantee) plus £25 for the oil feed pipe so not a bad few days work!

Hope this helps someone out sometime, feel free to drop me a line if you think you may have the same problem.

Graham