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Discussion Starter #1
what system does this fuse go to???
it has been burnt for a VERY long time... not sure if its actually burnt in two, but it sure looks like its not right lol

this is the terminal on top of my battery box... all of my systems on my car seem to work, that I know of... i do have a check engine light, and haven't been able to get it read yet
 

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Discussion Starter #3
its actually melted green plastic around the fuse... no dirt. its a pretty clean place other than the ashes.
and abs? my car doesn't have that feature... (thank god...) but they put the fuses in anyway??
hmm... I would pull the fuse while the cars running to see what system cuts out, but i'm afraid the fuse would fall apart...
ill check napa tomorrow if they can get me that fuse
do you know how many amp it is supposed to be? i might not be able to tell since its shell is melted pretty bad
 

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Discussion Starter #4
come to think of it... i've never seen the radiator fans running...
but i've never run hot lol
 

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"my car doesn't have that feature... (thank god...)"

Abs is brilliant in my opinion, you can just slam on the brakes in the wet and stop just like that where as on previous cars when a wheel locks up you can pump all you like but if that wheel is on a greasy patch it wont make any odds, you'll keep going and you don't have to deal with that poxy load sensing valve at the back, alloy with steel parts and bolts? Who thought that was a good idea lol.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
"and you don't have to deal with that poxy load sensing valve at the back, alloy with steel parts and bolts? Who thought that was a good idea lol."

I guess i don't know what you mean here lol

and I guess I like to have complete control over what my brakes are doing... lol
I'm sure i'll eventually have a vehicle that has abs and i'll have to learn to like it
:rolleyes:
 

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You still have control, just better control:D

As for the load sensing valve, cars with out abs have a valve connected to the rear axle so when there is extra weight in the car it increases braking power to the rear wheels to compensate.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i've seen this valve on my car before
I always thought it was to transfer power to the front when the nose started to dive... but your theory sounds a little more plausible :thumbsup
I didn't know it was a non ABS only thing though
 

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Yes according to Autodata the fuses are from right to left

F1 - 30A - Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
F2 - 30A - Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
F3 - 30A - Engine Coolant Blower Motor 1
F4 - 50A - Engine Coolant Heaters
F5 - 50A - Engine Management
F6 - 30A - Engine Coolant Blower Motor 2
F7 - 110A - Vehicle Interior
F8 - 110A - Alternator (90amp)
F8 - 150A - Alternator (150amp)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
that's some helpful info!

on my way to the parts store to pick up the fuse today, I had the pedal mashed, shifting at 3grand in every gear and the coolant light starts flashing red at me... so I pull over and make sure I still have coolant and everything. the light only flashed a few times then went away. it also beeped 3 times. this is the first and only time its done this to me.

the socket for the fuse is burnt pretty bad... but it seems like the new fuse is making a connection
i've yet to see my fans run
 

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Hello,

I am from Panama Republic of Panama - Central America. This is my first post :)

I use to have the same problem in my Jetta MK4. The same fuse got melted. You need to change the big Radiator Fan.

The big Radiator Fan is the one that turn on when tou turn on your AC. This Fan has 2 speed. Usually he always run in the slow speed and when the engine get more hot it then start the hi speed for a few minutes and then cycle to the slow speed again.

There is a resistor inside the fan that make this fan run in the slow speed, your fan has this resistor KAPUT/FUBAR/DAMAGE. So is not working in the slow speed. Your engine get more hotter and it triguer the fan only in hi speed. Since the fan has to work always in hi speed and this consume a lot of current from the battery making that fuse to get very hot and melt the plastic.

Check you fan and make sure it turn on as soon you hit the AC if not, replace the motor fan. Also make shure that the fuse horder is very clean and that the fuse is making good contac.

Good luck,

Isaac
 

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Discussion Starter #13
welcometomyturbodies
:D
yes
this makes sense
both fans come on right when I turn the AC on.
I bypassed the burnt terminal until I can figure out where to buy the whole terminal box
everything seems to work fine
I never get hot (no lights or beepers yet!)
I was afraid the fan was bad
so i'm not out of the water yet?
 

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If you make a search for: VW melted fuse box you will find a lot of info on this matter.

But I am sure that the problem were your fuse melted is related to the AC Radiator FAN working for longer period in HI. This fan working in HI consume a lot of current and make the fuse to heat.

In my case, the Fan was not working in low so I replace it. Also during this problem, the temperature gauge in my dash was around 3/4 not in the middle as always.

You dont need to get a new fuse box. What I did, I got a aftermarket 30 amp fuse holder with thick wire and do the bybass. So I am not using the factory fuse location any more. Check the pic for example.

"MAYBE" your fan is ok and your engine is overheated for other reason and this is triguering the thermo switch that triger the Fan to work in HI.

How old is your car? What Mileage it has? Is my undertanding that our VW use a water pump that use a plastic impeller and sometimes this impeller cracks and it does not move a lot of water causing the engine temperature to rise.

What ever is the case, keep and eye on the temperature gauge

Good luck

Isaac

 

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Discussion Starter #15
sad thing is, I don't have a temp gauge...
I think its cause the instrument cluster is soooo small on these cars, there's just no room.
I only have a light and a beeper that yells at me if I get too hot
so I only know the temp when its too cold or too hot.

I also bypassed the burnt terminal with a 30amp harness just like you did. I'd just like to have a new box because I don't like having too many connections that could possibly go bad.. (ie crimps)
i'm trusting it until I can find the new part if its not too expensive :)

I recently did a timing belt service and replaced the water pump at the same time with a metal impeller, so that rules that out
 

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If you make a search for: VW melted fuse box you will find a lot of info on this matter.

But I am sure that the problem were your fuse melted is related to the AC Radiator FAN working for longer period in HI. This fan working in HI consume a lot of current and make the fuse to heat.

In my case, the Fan was not working in low so I replace it. Also during this problem, the temperature gauge in my dash was around 3/4 not in the middle as always.

You dont need to get a new fuse box. What I did, I got a aftermarket 30 amp fuse holder with thick wire and do the bybass. So I am not using the factory fuse location any more. Check the pic for example.

"MAYBE" your fan is ok and your engine is overheated for other reason and this is triguering the thermo switch that triger the Fan to work in HI.

How old is your car? What Mileage it has? Is my undertanding that our VW use a water pump that use a plastic impeller and sometimes this impeller cracks and it does not move a lot of water causing the engine temperature to rise.

What ever is the case, keep and eye on the temperature gauge

Good luck

Isaac

If you write up some background on the technical side and the procedure or if you have any more pictures could you make a FAQ article on it? It will be included into the FAQ and it could help many others.
 

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sad thing is, I don't have a temp gauge...
I think its cause the instrument cluster is soooo small on these cars, there's just no room.
I only have a light and a beeper that yells at me if I get too hot
so I only know the temp when its too cold or too hot.
Hello Stroud,

I found this post on http://forums.tdiclub.com Called: Check your radiator/condenser fan operation NOW

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=242699

They talk about the fan and recomend what to check and how to test them. Maybe it worth that you read it. They also mension the fuse melt problem.

Maybe is a good idea to intall a aftermarket Temp Gauge in your car so you can monitor better your temperature. There are companys in e-bay and the net that sells nice pods to intall the temp gauges. Many of then they are selled for boost gauges. Make a search on the net for: vw boost gauge pods and check under images and you will see wath I mean.............There are a lot of models to choose :)

BTW, what year is your car?

Good luck,

Isaac
 
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