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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to just get second opinions as I can't seem to find anyone else with the same issue. I have a 98 Jetta manual with 250k miles. The story goes I was driving to work which is about an hour one way. The first 40 minutes are highway and no issues. I start some city driving and get on a road that's 55mph when the car starts sputtering as I maintain rpms. This progressively gets worse until I am almost into my work parking lot. I had to either let it coast or accelerate to keep it going. I was thinking it could be something clogged in the airflow hence working fine when accelerating. Once I get it into the parking lot, I pop the hood and about 15 seconds later it dies and won't restart. Had to tow it home. I checked the EGR and its dirty but fine. Tried starting it with the intake pretty much off so starting at the EGR and still wont start. I start listening for the solenoid and to my surprise it makes 3 clicks when power is applied. I even jumped it and it still does it. I'm going to clean the connection in a bit but wanted to see if anyone else has seen this. I may need a new one but a solenoid making 3 clicks in a row is a bit odd to me. Any other ideas?
 

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First posts normally go in introductions else you could get a free fix and we never see you again!!!

Forum Rules and Guidelines

Fuel Solenoid what are you referring too, Deceleration Fuel Cut-Off Valve (N55) which is Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Hydraulic Unit (N55)

Or Anti Shudder Valve (ASV)?

Any problems search TDI Wiki as that covers write ups and forum posts.

You need to get your motor scanned (preferably with VAG-COM\VCDS) for any error codes logged in the ecu and post them, that will save a lot of guessing and check systems out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its the solenoid right after the injection pump. From what I can tell its getting the 12V to open it once the ignition switch is on but the actual solenoid clicks 3 times when its supposed to open and then sounds like its shutting about 10-15 seconds later. I have been looking wherever I could and haven't seen anyone with the same problem. Im going to order a new solenoid tomorrow night since it wont ship out until Monday anyway unless I find a different issue that's causing it. I would get if the solenoid doesn't open at all but the clicking is throwing me off.
 

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That will be Fuel Cut-Off Valve (N109) Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid/Valve (N109).

There should be a 12v feed all the time with the ignition turned on. When it energises it clicks. Check the wiring/connectors and also the fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've checked the wiring around it and have been trying to get the actual solenoid out to test it but the thing wont budge. I'm also going to check the timing when I get home from work tomorrow just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I believe my solenoid is bad and just acting funny. Either way I cant get it out. I cleaned all the grounds and still the same result, even if I jump it.
 

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These Fuel Cut-Off Valve (N109) Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid/Valve (N109) you can remove with a good fitting spanner as they aren't generally tight.

Get yourself a new replacement before attempting to remove it. As if it damages you will be a bit stuffed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I can't explain it but for anyone who finds this thread I hope it helps. I went through and cleaned the grounds in the car which really weren't bad anyway. I was checking the solenoid and was still hearing the same clicking as before. I never bothered to start it until after I got a new solenoid in. Before I started the replacement I thought why not check it one more time. Put the post directly to the 12V from the battery and got a solid open from the solenoid. Tried starting it and it did. Drove it around and its find. I suppose what was happening is that since there was not a good ground connection, the solenoid couldn't remain open and was stumbling between shutting and opening leading to my issue. I still get the same three clicks which I feel weren't there before but it starts and that's good for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I put a thread a few weeks ago about a weird clicking on my fuel solenoid. I cleaned the ground thoroughly and didn't have any issues. I drove it to work and back the twice with no problems since. Thats an hour one way. Today i got off the highway at a light, put it in first to make the turn after stopping and the car began violently jerking like it couldn't keep accelerating. I was able to pull off and get some testing but i had to leave it. What i know is that under that acceleration it jerks. If i put it in second and get it going at low rpm, it can do that but only sometimes. I can idle it and rev it in nuetral with no issues. The second i try to get it going forward though, it begins to jerk almost like 1 of every 4 cylinders fire. I don't understand what the problem could be. Ive drove it far enough with no issues. The fuel filter and timing belt have about 15k miles on them. The timing shouldnt be off since i was able to get that far and drive around a few days with that. Does anyone have experience with this or any ideas what it could be. My guess is telling me the transmission but i am certainly not 100% on that.
 

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I've merged your last post as it isn't worth making a new thread for the same problem. You still haven't made an intro after being asked!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well yesterday I drove the car around the parking lot at work with vcds lite on. I found nothing wrong. Everything was within parameters and no air in the fuel lines. I found a video that could indicate an issue with my clicking. It seems the QA is not going all the way then I turn the ignition on. I’m checking today by taking the cover off. My other thoughts are that it has happened when I’m driving to work in the morning. On the Saturday before it was fine until I was almost home and that was a stutter once every few minutes. This is all during a 45 minute drive each time. The 2 times in the morning were around the same area. The first time the car wouldn’t even restart so that’s wierd. Either way I cannot seem to recreate the problem and I’m a little afraid to drive it home since that’s almost an hour away.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I havent taken the car home but the clicking is now gone. Had a buddy at work cycle the ignition a few times and it clicks twice like it should. I drove it around some more and still nothing. I replaced the small vacuum line going into the firewall above the heater core lines so that wont fall off anymore. I have a new fuel filter just to rule that out that i will be replacing tomorrow before i try and drive it home. Im still hoping someone here has had this issue before i tear into the car once i get it home.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I figure I will keep updating this in case someone comes across it in the future. I finally got the car home on a Sunday morning. I was on my street when the car began to sputter. I pulled in front of the house and the idle was between 1k and 1.5k and pouring black smoke. Got it in the garage where it died and wouldn’t restart. I was still thinking I had a bad ground. I pulled the ground from the transmission to the battery by itself and checked with a multimeter. Resistance was all over the place. Not because the cable was bad but rather because I hadn’t cleaned the battery terminal connector enough. This time I scrubbed the crap out of it.

While I was at it I checked all the intake pipes and replaced the last of the vacuum lines. I didn’t order enough the first time to do them all. I put the car back together and it fired right up. To recreate the condition I have to drive on the highway for about 45 min so I’m not sure when I’ll be able to test it but it seems a lot better. I’m also going to do the fuel filter and oil change before I take it out since it’s time for both anyway. I’ll put one final post up if that solves it in case someone needs this.
 
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