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Audi Q7 3.0 TDI. I'm getting ready to change the fuel filter. Anyone know the torque spec for the fasteners holding the filter cover closed?
Fuel Filter Change Question, DIY Audi Q7 3.0 TDI
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No but here's a guess based off similar fuel filter housings: 3.7 ft-lb or 5NM. They might be stuck when removing them but if you overtighten them they'll probably be very hard to remove.
If you can take pics of the filter and what's inside the housing, any DIY steps, it would be very helpful and be added to the FAQ! A good step by step pictorial will also quality for the writeup contest!
If you can take pics of the filter and what's inside the housing, any DIY steps, it would be very helpful and be added to the FAQ! A good step by step pictorial will also quality for the writeup contest!
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Thanks. I'll do what I can when it comes to pictures. However, holding an expensive camera with diesel and or grease on my hands is not something I really want to do.
VAG-COM will be used to purge the lines before starting it up after the change.
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Job done today. There's just too much diesel fuel splashing around and on my hands to want to get it on my camera. However, the photos shown in the links posted in the second message of this thread cover it as well as anything I could have done.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f20/q7-tdi-fuel-filter-11530/
The unit itself is almost identical to this one:
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/images/pdf/Fuel_Filter_housing_construction_and_flow_paths.pdf
Removing the cover is a simple matter of removing 4 T30 screws and levering it open with a screw driver. The large double o-ring gasket is easy to remove from the cover, but installing the new one (included with the filter element) requires large hands due to the slippery diesel fuel. The "olympic" shaped o-ring sticks to the cover and is easy to pull off; but the new one (also included with the filter element) must be pressed down into the grooves on the center section of the filter.
The two hardest jobs are removing the old filter element, and pressing the new one back in. Removal requires a couple of screw drivers or small pry bars on each side to lever it out. The center seals stick to the center plastic section; and it really feels like I was close to breaking something before I got it to move. A little fuel slopped around doing this.
Pressing the new one back in place also required quite a bit of effort, even though I slopped diesel fuel and a bit of white lithium grease on the inner seals to try to help the lubricity. When it finally slid into place, it was moving quite fast; so a bunch of diesel splashed out and all over everything in the area. I had not removed the residual diesel in the filter housing. Hindsight says that I probably should have done that.
Pressing the cap and its double o-ring seal back on was not too difficult. Just be sure that it's going down straight with the screw holes lined up. I brought the 4 screws each down a bit at a time to insure that the o-ring seated well; and I torqued them to 5 nM.
There is also a small metal seal/washer included to go on the water bleed screw located in the center of the cover. This screw and seal was also torqued to 5 nM, although that seems light for a metal to metal seal; so I'll keep an eye on it.
I used the VAG-COM with the Ross-Tech Wiki instructions to cycle the fuel pump a couple of times to purge out the air, checked for leaks and started the engine.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/inde...,_and_CR_TDI_Engines#Fuel_Pump_Basic_Settings
All seems to be A-OK. Gonna have to live with a diesel smell for a little while, but it sure beats the hassle and cost of a dealer doing this.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f20/q7-tdi-fuel-filter-11530/
The unit itself is almost identical to this one:
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/images/pdf/Fuel_Filter_housing_construction_and_flow_paths.pdf
Removing the cover is a simple matter of removing 4 T30 screws and levering it open with a screw driver. The large double o-ring gasket is easy to remove from the cover, but installing the new one (included with the filter element) requires large hands due to the slippery diesel fuel. The "olympic" shaped o-ring sticks to the cover and is easy to pull off; but the new one (also included with the filter element) must be pressed down into the grooves on the center section of the filter.
The two hardest jobs are removing the old filter element, and pressing the new one back in. Removal requires a couple of screw drivers or small pry bars on each side to lever it out. The center seals stick to the center plastic section; and it really feels like I was close to breaking something before I got it to move. A little fuel slopped around doing this.
Pressing the new one back in place also required quite a bit of effort, even though I slopped diesel fuel and a bit of white lithium grease on the inner seals to try to help the lubricity. When it finally slid into place, it was moving quite fast; so a bunch of diesel splashed out and all over everything in the area. I had not removed the residual diesel in the filter housing. Hindsight says that I probably should have done that.
Pressing the cap and its double o-ring seal back on was not too difficult. Just be sure that it's going down straight with the screw holes lined up. I brought the 4 screws each down a bit at a time to insure that the o-ring seated well; and I torqued them to 5 nM.
There is also a small metal seal/washer included to go on the water bleed screw located in the center of the cover. This screw and seal was also torqued to 5 nM, although that seems light for a metal to metal seal; so I'll keep an eye on it.
I used the VAG-COM with the Ross-Tech Wiki instructions to cycle the fuel pump a couple of times to purge out the air, checked for leaks and started the engine.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/inde...,_and_CR_TDI_Engines#Fuel_Pump_Basic_Settings
All seems to be A-OK. Gonna have to live with a diesel smell for a little while, but it sure beats the hassle and cost of a dealer doing this.
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182 Posts
That's a good price.Dutch,
How much was the Fuel Filter?
I can get this 'kit' from Autohaus AZ for $47, made by MANN
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Is that reasonable?
Thanks,
Peter
I did the fuel filter change on my 2009 VW Touareg today. Per the ELSA Win instructions, I extracted the fuel from the filter housing prior to opening the cover so I had no issues with fuel splashing during the install. It took me about (5) minutes to remove the old filter. I was unable to pull out the old filter with the handle and I had to pry the center gasket seal up on the old filter, and then pry out the old filter with a large screw driver.
After installing the new filter and securing the cover, I used a vag com to cycle the fuel filter pump (3) times and the vehicle started right up. My torque wrench was too big to use on the screws securing the lid so I just hand tightened the screws with a socket wrench and there was no fuel leakage. When I get an adapter for my ½” torque wrench, I will torque the screws to the required newton meters.
After installing the new filter and securing the cover, I used a vag com to cycle the fuel filter pump (3) times and the vehicle started right up. My torque wrench was too big to use on the screws securing the lid so I just hand tightened the screws with a socket wrench and there was no fuel leakage. When I get an adapter for my ½” torque wrench, I will torque the screws to the required newton meters.
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