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There is no coding needed to have the automatic opening hatches. You just replace the struts and turn the pins around.
I'd give anything if you were correct. Here's what happens: My car is currently coded so that when I push the "unlock" button on the fob one time, both doors and the hatch unlock. Then, when I push the hatch release button on the fob once, or twice, or even hold it down, the hatch releases, but not the "safety catch". The safety catch will not completely-release the hatch no matter what I do with the fob. I have to manually pull on the VW emblem to trigger the safety catch release before the hatch can be opened. In view of this, it won't make any sense for me to replace my struts, etc. if I still have to pull on the emblem to release the safety catch. If my hand is already on the emblem, I can lift the hatch manually. Believe me, I'd rather be doing it your way...

By the way, do you know if the new struts are a Europe-only part number? If I do figure this out, I'm wondering where to get them...

golfTDI1:
I did verify that the hatch is not fully released by grabbing the lower corners with my fingers and yanking on it, only to hit a hard stop (the safety catch) after pushing the hatch button. I tried this after one push of the button, again after two pushes, and again after holding the button down for several seconds...all without success. It's very easy to hear the solenoid for the safety catch when it activates, and the only thing that activates that solenoid is manually pulling on the VW emblem. Would that it were not so...
 

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This is interesting...1analguy sorry to say that you have a hatch that clearly behaves differently than anybody else with the same model. it shouldnt matter where you are as far as country either. Im thinking a couple of things 1) i think you said u have VCDS, u may have modified a code that unbeknownst to you affected your hatch release somewhere along the line. You can probably send a scan to dana @ rosstech. Maybe that will give you an answer. 2). It may be possible that you have a mechanical malfunction, but idk what it could possibly be because the emblem switch triggers the same solenoids as the key fob hatch button. But there could be a miscommunication somewhere. If you've been using the same key fob to test you might want to try the other ones to see if by some miracle you get a different result.
 

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I only changed two door lock settings in the code, and I did them one-at-a-time, testing hatch/fob operation before and after each change to be sure that I wasn't losing anything in the process. All that these code setting changes did was to cause the door locking options to show up in the MFD (they were not there previously), which is where you then make your door locking choices. I also tried a couple of other settings that looked like they might help (again, one at a time...with testing) without success, so I left everything else as it was. After looking at keithuk's link on the coding change, I have to say that the #46 controller no longer works on the '11 U.S. Golf. All those functions are now found in the #9 controller.

I have yet to completely try both fobs, so I'll have to do that. I'll let you know...
 

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My 2011 Golf TDI also behave exactly like 1analguy's golf. So his is not the only one. The hatch only release after the VW circle is lifted (no matter what button is pushed on the fob).

-bill
 

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Interesting...I guess I stand corrected, maybe its working as intended on the '11s and VW changed something between '10 and '11? I was pretty sure I had read abt someone with a 2011 tdi golf that worked the way the '10's and prior do, but I may be mistaken. Idk why they would change it though.
 

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My 2011 Golf TDI also behave exactly like 1analguy's golf. So his is not the only one. The hatch only release after the VW circle is lifted (no matter what button is pushed on the fob).

-bill
Thanks, Bill. I thought I was going nuts there for a while. When I woke up this morning, I was lying there thinking about this and I remembered something. When I was in the code for the second or third time looking for a solution to this, I saw an un-checked bit (Byte 9, bit 5) that looked as though (if checked) it would activate the "rolling code"/"handshaking" function between the car and the fob. Oddly, it appears that these cars are delivered with the fobs working in "dumb" mode without "rolling code" operational. At least, that's how I interpreted it. This last thought is what prevented me from checking the bit and trying it...if I interpreted the situation incorrectly, I could be locked out of my new car (not good)! Has anyone tried adding this feature?

Interesting...I guess I stand corrected, maybe its working as intended on the '11s and VW changed something between '10 and '11? I was pretty sure I had read abt someone with a 2011 tdi golf that worked the way the '10's and prior do, but I may be mistaken. Idk why they would change it though.
We've seen other aspects/features differ between '10s & '11s for no apparent reason. This just must be one way that VW avoids laying off engineers...
 

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On my '11 if I hold the center button on the fob for a few seconds it will release the latch, just like in the videos of the strut mod. Of course the door doesn't pop open because I haven't done the strut mod.
 

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my '11 latch releases like it should after pressing the fob button for a few seconds. I tried it last night... However, the hatch didn't move at all. It's most likely due to the cold.

I was able to push open the hatch from pulling on the side corner w/o using the VW emblem handle.
 

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I knew it was working for some people...I just couldn't find the posts I had seen. Now why would it work on some '11s and not others? Dare I say coding? lol...I'm interested to know the outcome.
 

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I knew it was working for some people...I just couldn't find the posts I had seen. Now why would it work on some '11s and not others? Dare I say coding? lol...I'm interested to know the outcome.
I have done no coding, but I have changed the convenience settings to Unlock all the doors.

I just went and played with it and it is behaving slightly differently then when I tried it before. I could hear the the latch release and the hatch pops just a bit, but it immediately *clicks* and "locks" again. But if I time it right I can press the fob and pull the hatch open without touching the 'handle'. When I did it before it would pop enough on its own that it didn't *click*. I think the difference is that it was considerably warmer then and the struts were able to do a better job of pushing the hatch open.

So what I am wondering are you hearing any noises?

Also this only works when I hold the middle button for a few seconds, "double clicking" doesn't work for me.
 

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I have done no coding, but I have changed the convenience settings to Unlock all the doors.

I just went and played with it and it is behaving slightly differently then when I tried it before. I could hear the the latch release and the hatch pops just a bit, but it immediately *clicks* and "locks" again. But if I time it right I can press the fob and pull the hatch open without touching the 'handle'. When I did it before it would pop enough on its own that it didn't *click*. I think the difference is that it was considerably warmer then and the struts were able to do a better job of pushing the hatch open.

So what I am wondering are you hearing any noises?

Also this only works when I hold the middle button for a few seconds, "double clicking" doesn't work for me.
The "Unlock all doors" option did not even appear in my MFD until I did the coding. And yes, I've tried every conceivable combination of pushes/pushing on the fob hatch button. The fob will only pop the initial hatch release. It will not release the safety catch...
 

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I have done no coding, but I have changed the convenience settings to Unlock all the doors.
.
Right, what i was implying was that yours is set up like factory and maybe those guys that are not getting the release have changed something and may not even realize it. Some guys said they double and triple checked their code work but you never know.

You also brought up something that I'm not sure was made clear before: the hatch only releases for a second, maybe two...If you dont time it correctly you won't get it to open. This is the sequence: press and hold the hatch button on the key fob, the first lock unlocks, the second lock (catch) opens and within a second or two relocks, at this point the hatch can still be opened with the VW emblem but thats it. Within a few seconds (not sure what the exact count is) the first lock will lock again on its own (as long as the car doors are locked still). But the timing needs to be perfect. The new auto struts put just enough oomph against the latch to just pop it off the hook just as the solenoid opens so that its at least past the catch as the solenoid closes. the door will then gain momentum and the strut will get more leverage and deliver more thrust as it opens. In the cold weather even my new struts need abt 20 seconds to start moving to open the hatch but it still pops the door ever so slightly off the catch in time.
 

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...You also brought up something that I'm not sure was made clear before: the hatch only releases for a second, maybe two...If you dont time it correctly you won't get it to open. This is the sequence: press and hold the hatch button on the key fob, the first lock unlocks, the second lock (catch) opens and within a second or two relocks, at this point the hatch can still be opened with the VW emblem but thats it. Within a few seconds (not sure what the exact count is) the first lock will lock again on its own (as long as the car doors are locked still). But the timing needs to be perfect. The new auto struts put just enough oomph against the latch to just pop it off the hook just as the solenoid opens so that its at least past the catch as the solenoid closes. the door will then gain momentum and the strut will get more leverage and deliver more thrust as it opens. In the cold weather even my new struts need abt 20 seconds to start moving to open the hatch but it still pops the door ever so slightly off the catch in time.
Well, I have once again proved the old adage about "when you ass-u-me"...

I finally discovered what you're talking about above, all on my own, yesterday when I went out to the car to try everything again. You see, I had assumed that when I was hearing that brief "chirp/click" sound that the safety catch makes (about one second's-worth), I was hearing the safety catch opening. So right after that, I would pull on the hatch...and the catch would still be locked. It turns out that the "chirp/click" is not the catch opening, it's the catch cycling...first to unlocked, and then back to locked again! I found this out when I became so frustrated with the catch that I shut the hatch completely (now locked, of course), wedged my finger into the lower left corner as best as I could...and, while pulling outward with my one finger, I hit the hatch unlock button on the fob one time. The hatch opened completely, bypassing the safety catch altogether! :thumbsup:nana2::thumbsup Then, as a test, I pushed the hatch closed just enough for the safety catch to "catch", again hooked my finger behind the corner of the hatch and, while pulling outward I pushed the hatch button on the fob one time...and the hatch opened again! :D

Refer back to c.c.b.b's posting (#9) of the long-coding example earlier in the thread. The only two coding mods that I had made were in the shown "Byte 0", one to deactivate auto-lock (bit 2), and the other to active auto-unlock (bit 1). The above testing was conducted with those two mods in place. Then I undid them both (back to stock coding) and retested...with the same results (hatch opened). So, my mods had no effect for our purposes...and I returned to the modded settings.

It's time to just say it: all those who said that I was nuts were more or less right...with the one caveat that there must be constant outward pressure on the hatch, in an amount great enough to actually move the hatch outward while the latch/catch briefly cycles open, in order for this strut mod to work. Apparently, in the cold weather this is often not accomplished by the struts/pivot mods alone. Someone said something about different bumpers (longer or stiffer) aiding in this regard. I would also be curious as to what the result would be if one were to simply perform both pivot-point mods (flipping the top ones and using shorter spherical studs on the hatch)...while using the stock struts. After these changes, would the stockers be too weak, or the wrong length, or a combination of both, or neither?

I went to the ECS site to look at their kit for this and they list all the parts as theirs, not VW's. It makes me a bit nervous, not knowing where they're coming from or where to obtain new ones when the time comes down the road somewhere. I think I might wait a bit longer to do this, until a generally-agreed-upon list of the correct VW part numbers surfaces. Does anyone know if the VW parts listed by the OP are all available as NA parts through VW in the U.S.?
 

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1analguy, I'm glad that you have been able to open the hatch now. Yes, the parts on ECS are VW German made parts. I ordered mine from ECS by just entering the part numbers listed by OP on ECSs site. ECS likes to convert VW P/Ns to their own number system and sometimes they dont give enough info. but if you put the VW P/N in, order what comes up and it should be, as mine was an original VW part. You can call them if you want, they are usually pretty helpful on the phone. If all else fails, you can always return if you don't like what they send you, but I think you'll be satisfied. When you get them remember: you need a small screwdriver to pry up the clips that hold the original strut to the ball joints. Don't pry the new ones up, you should be able to press the new strut right onto the ball joints after the old ones are off. Also, you'll need a allen (hex) wrench to remove the top body brackets in order to flip them 180 degrees. Lastly, be prepared to support the full weight of the hatch on you're shoulders or secure it to something because once one of the struts is disconnected, the other will not support the weight of the hatch.

And before you ask, the new struts will take sometimes over a half a minute to open the hatch when the temp is below freezing. Even though it sometimes takes a while to open up, my modified struts/pivot arrangement has enough oomph to move the hatch initially enough off the catch when I cycle the solenoid, every time. So it releases and just sits there for a few seconds until it can build up the leverage to start moving. Once it gets going though it'll pop right up. Good luck!
 

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OK. I saw a thread on this over on the Vortex, too. A couple of folks there said that this mod will reduce the full-open height of the hatch by about 5-6 inches, which is quite a lot if you happen to be on the tall side. Unfortunately, that includes me...so I'm waiting to see if anyone can come up with a solution to this loss of travel, while still retaining the auto-open feature.
 

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I dont think this is true...I didn't notice any difference in height. I'll have to check tomorrow.
 

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A couple of folks there said that this mod will reduce the full-open height of the hatch by about 5-6 inches
Ok, I'm not sure where this information came from but its not true. I just checked my new struts (P/N thats listed in the OP) with the stock ones and they open up to the exact same height.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I can appreciate all the responses...and understand that there is a mod out there to fix the problem....BUT....

I can't figure out why so many people are ok with modifying a brand new car with parts that CANNOT be warrantied in a situation whereby the manufacturer is for all intents and purposes lying to consumers. My owner's manual is very open about this: the rear hatch MAY not open automatically when ambient temperatures are less than 0 degrees C (32 F). Using a bit of simple deduction, I come up with a simple truth: if ambient temperatures are greater than 0 degrees C the rear hatch should open automatically. To not have the hatch open automatically in the situation I just described is contrary to the owner's manual, which is considered a legal document.

Once it warms up here, I'll be back at the dealer to show them the owners manual and the fact that my hatch behaves contrary to the description in the manual. IF they refuse to fix the problem on a car with 2500 KM's on the clock, I will be going directly to VW Canada for satisfaction.

If enough people go through the same process, VW will have to come clean on this and properly fix the problem with struts that lift with enough newtons of force to open the hatch properly at all times. These struts will have a proper warranty and if they fail in the future would be covered, not like the other fixes.
 
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