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Here's the situation. Last night driving down the highway straight and level (70 MPH, outside air temperature 25* F) the car (2006 Jetta TDI) seems to lose power. So I pull over as the car (DSG) is down shifting (still no throttle response) and the car rolls to a rest on the side of the road. There were no indications of a problem in the car (outside of the no engine power) until we came to a stop and then the lights on the dash indicated that the engine was off. The whole event reminded me of running out of fuel (but I still had over a half tank). Tried to start the car and no luck. The best it would do is to crank over once, maybe twice. After several attempts I conceded it wasn't go to start.

Fast forward to today. Drove back to the car to tow it and tried to start it again. Only this time I noticed that even with the car in PARK, it would lurch forward when the starter would kick over. That's weird. :dunno So I tried to start in Neutral. Same thing. You could feel the car lurch forward as the starter engaged (felt like someone pushed the rear of the car a little). At this point, I really was trying get a grasp has to what was going on. Thinking that I'd figure it out at home, I started to help push the rear of the car while a friend pushed from the drivers door to get it in place for the trailer. As we did this he turned the key on again and the engine fired to life. It ran perfectly. No indication that anything had been wrong (no idiot lights and a smooth idle). At this point I wanted the VW dealer to look at it. Drove it ten minutes to the dealer with no problems. They couldn't do anything until next week (it's Friday) but did seem to think that it was a bad fuel filter.

Drove it home 25 minutes at highway speeds with no problems and installed the new fuel filter when I got home. The old filter was indeed very dark (almost black). OK. So I think, that was easy. Car is running well now. Not so fast. It did the same thing (stall) later today.

This time I played with the starter and shuffled the transmission through the gears and it came to life after a couple of long (20 seconds) attempts on the starter. Again it's running like a champ, but I have to troubleshoot this before I bites me on the way to work.

Any ideas? I'm thinking that it's a fuel problem. Perhaps a fuel pump issue? I did read the FAQ's section on this site and found the write up on "Limp Mode". Could this be what I'm describing? I didn't get the feeling though from the article that "Limp Mode" would turn the engine off.
 

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That's not limp mode, your car is stalling or going into idle. Limp mode is normally just a reduction in power which is reset when you turn the car on/off and it's restored. You have a running problem. Did the dealer pull the codes?

When you say no throttle response, did the engine seem to run OK but the DSG was in neutral? Or did pressing the accelerator pedal product no change in rpm?

The lurching when in park is considered normal. This is known as the cold start crawl. It's because the DSG fluid is cold and has enough resistance to move the clutches. That's why you should always use the parking brake after putting the car in park and always step on the brakes. When starting the car in any car, auto, manual, or DSG, it's a good habit to step on the brakes when starting the engine. In fact, when combined with thin air (high altitude) and very cold temps, the DSG may provide enough resistance to result in a no start condition because a diesel needs compression and adequate rpm.

It's possible the fuel pump in the fuel pump is dying. In that case some people can still run, others stall out. Can you put your ear to the pump in the rear and listen when someone turns the key to on?

This should not be fuel gel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's not limp mode, your car is stalling or going into idle. Limp mode is normally just a reduction in power which is reset when you turn the car on/off and it's restored. You have a running problem. Did the dealer pull the codes?
When I asked the VW service manager if they could pull any codes, he responded that unless the check engine light was on there wouldn't be any codes. After reading your FAQ's, I see that he was incorrect and that there maybe hidden codes without a check engine light. My next step is to drive down to the local parts store and see if they can pull any codes.


When you say no throttle response, did the engine seem to run OK but the DSG was in neutral? Or did pressing the accelerator pedal product no change in rpm?
While driving, the accelerator pedal loses it's ability to change engine rpm. As the car rolls to a stop the engine is dead. I'm not sure if the engine dies and the rpm's are still showing because the transmission is pushing the engine or if the engine is gradually losing power until it dies at very low speed. I'm thinking that the engine cuts off and the DSG is trying to maintain rpm's by pushing the engine.

It's possible the fuel pump in the fuel pump is dying. In that case some people can still run, others stall out. Can you put your ear to the pump in the rear and listen when someone turns the key to on?
Yes, you can hear a motor hum for about two seconds when you initially turn the key to let the glow plugs warm.

This should not be fuel gel.
I agree. I'm assuming that if it were fuel gelling, that it would not start again until the fuel warmed up.
Thanks for helping to troubleshoot. I'll report back with engine codes.

On a side note, I normally add a diesel additive for boost and gelling. But ran out for the last fill up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update...

Stopped by the parts store today to scan for a code.

P2195 Came up. Heated oxygen sensor signal stuck lean.
Probable cause....(according to the parts store computer)
1. Blocked or failed fuel system
2. Blocked Air intake
3. Poor fuel quality

I've changed the fuel filter and checked the air filter (looks new). So from here I'm going to assume that I got some bad diesel.

Anyone concur?
 

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If you don't think it's fuel, try air. Is the intake valve working? Maybe it's closing for some reason and stalling the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I thought this problem was behind me. That is until it died again this morning.

Drove to work (about an hour drive) and stopped at a store for a couple of minutes. Started the car, backed up 10 feet and it stalled. Tried several times to restart with no luck. (The glow plug light comes on for about two seconds and then extinguishes).

I'm at loss. I thought it was bad fuel but this is a different tank of fuel with an additive for gelling. Outside air temperature was also mild (around 32* F).

Any thoughts before I take this into the dealer? Anyone you would suggest in the Pittsburgh area?
 

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2004 Jetta TDi feels like out of fuel

My daughter chelsea's 04 Jetta has 140K miles on her tdi. This is a well maintained car but this issue has caused us all to be very frustrated to the point that she bought a new car but we still have to fix and sell the old one. Driving along...loses power and stalls, fuel gauge says over 1/2 tank of diesel. Dealer and German Auto mechanic; both scratching head and can't figure out issue. Car isn't throwing any codes and if you put another gallon or two of diesel in, it starts up after priming it a bit, but you better fill it up soon or history repeats itself. We replaced fuel filter and car is well serviced. Beautiful car with issue. Any update on the mystery issue?
 

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2006 Jetta TDI stalling with 1/2 tank of fuel or less!

Hi,

My father has a 2006 Jetta TDI with an automatic, 200,000 KM. He must keep the fuel over a 1/2 tank. If not, the car stalls (going up hill or turning right). The car will start again but he must crank it quite a bit. When he tanks up, the car is fine.

He has had a new fuel pump installed, had the fuel tank check etc.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Larry
 

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Hi did u solve it? My car 2007 2.0 Dsg is exactly having the same problem dealer changed in tank fuel pump crankshaft sensor then fuel filter every time he says it wont stall but the car is back to the dealer the very next day my problem started after broken Dual mass flywheel was changed it has cost me £3000 it stalls under sudden breaks has also when I was on motorway doing around 70kmh, when the engine stalls it will crankup but won't start it can jump start and will run as if there's no problem it all till it stall, it won't generate any fault code, I am running out of patient I might torch I have had Jap cara for years never had any trouble VW is a nigtmare.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I never did find out what caused the car to quit. I had a friend who hooked up a vagcom to pull any codes and found a few codes. They were all related to the engine quitting (low voltage, etc). He erased them from the memory and the car has started and run fine since then. My friend seemed to think that it was the immobilizer. Since then I haven't had an issue in 9 months. For now I'm more inclined to think that it was a temperature/fuel issue.

I'm also not inclined to think that it was fuel level, since the last time it happened was at the fuel station just after filling up. I also run the tank down to empty each tank. (I can set the odometer to the low fuel warning, it comes on at almost exactly 500 miles)
 

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Stalling/Starting Issues

Hi did u solve it? My car 2007 2.0 Dsg is exactly having the same problem dealer changed in tank fuel pump crankshaft sensor then fuel filter every time he says it wont stall but the car is back to the dealer the very next day my problem started after broken Dual mass flywheel was changed it has cost me £3000 it stalls under sudden breaks has also when I was on motorway doing around 70kmh, when the engine stalls it will crankup but won't start it can jump start and will run as if there's no problem it all till it stall, it won't generate any fault code, I am running out of patient I might torch I have had Jap cara for years never had any trouble VW is a nigtmare.
My 2004 Jetta TDI is having the same problem. I have been scanning the site for similar issues and possible solutions and noticed this post. My car (80,000 miles) did not have this issue until after I had my dual mass flywheel changed. I replaced it with a single. The car started great from my mechanics and I drove it 2 hours home and she drove wonderfully. However, the next day I went to start her and she turned over and then died. I tried again and it acted like it wanted to turn over but wouldn't. Tried again and got nothing. No spark, no fire, no nothing.

I am getting a blinking glow plugs sensor light (indicating some kind of electrical problem I assume). Because I live in a tiny town in Montana I have not been able to have the codes read. Could there be a connection between the work I had done on the clutch and my current issues? I'll keep reading and searching the site.
 

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blinking light is major issue. I would suggest finding an auto parts store or at least getting a cheap ebay cable with ross tech's trial version of their software

SMF conversion will not affect any starting problems unless the ring gear or something like that failed which is very rare.

could be related to starter wiring or something that was removed and not put back.
 

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Getting a scanner

I ordered a scanner and will post the codes I get. I wondered if something had not been reconnected properly and jiggled loose on the way home. Who knows...soon I will! Thanks for the fast reply.
 

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Sorry it took me so long to get back on this. I finally got my scanner and scanned my Jetta. These are the codes I got:

(17055) P0671 - Glow Plug (I was aware of this one. I had one glow plug that was going out but the dealership said it wouldn't cause problems till cold weather.)
(17978) P1570 - Engine start blocked by Immobilizer (I suspect this is the big culprit)
(18009) P1601 - Relay for supply Voltage Terminal 30(J317): Implausible Signal (My father-in-law had unplugged the 100 relay and hadn't plugged it back in, we're thinking that is this code)
P3102 - Motor for intake manifold flap (V157): No signal (forgot to write down the 5-digit code on this one)

P0671, P1601, and P3102 also said (Static - no define) at the end of the message, not sure if that is anything.

Any thoughts with this new information?
 

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engine start blocked just means some intermittent immobilizer prob, could be from low battery, missed start, if you're not having any starting problems then it's not it. Immo sys doesn't affect engine power and will not shut off engine after it's running for more than 1 second. I've tried by removing the chip out of range.

intake mani flap is the throttle like valve on intake mani. Sometimes the plastic gears strip or it could have been sticking from carbon buildup. Could be causing your issue because it moves back-forth to help EGR system which could cause intake air problems. not sure what terminal 30 is.

clear codes, drive until symptoms reappear, check codes. if you have VCDS, use measuring blocks to monitor intake flap valve or just take it apart and inspect for damage/wear
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update.


Nearly two years later, the problem has not come back. (occurred a total of three times) Outside of a fuel filter change and the vagcom scan, nothing was done.

I still think it was a fuel issue for me. I had some bad diesel. Or it could have been the 5% biodiesel I picked up on a road trip. The biodiesel may have washed out some gunk in the fuel system (which clogged something up).
 

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Hi I have a similar problem. 2011 Audi A3 TDI 2.0 30k miles.

The first time I was exiting the highway (turning right with about a 1/4 tank) and came up to a red light and the engine sputtered and stalled. I tried to restart several times with no luck. Waited about 10-15 min and did an extended start with pump of the pedal (don't know if this actually does anything cuz its electronic I believe) and it fired up. No codes. Drove fine without any indication of a problem. I was on my way to the dealer anyways so I left it with them to have them look at the injection lines as there was a recall out for them. They said they were fine and I picked up the car a couple days later and filled it up with BP Diesel, the previous tank was Shell.

I didn't have any problems until about 2 weeks later when this time I was getting on the highway and I noticed the engine not running right so I shifted to neutral to see what would happen and it just died. Again about a 1/4 tank (the same BP as mentioned above) and turning right. Went through the same process as before with the same result. Tried to start several times, no luck. Waited a while, long start and pump gas, booms she fires up. This time when the engine started acting up I noticed the glow plug light blinking (general electrical problem). Once restarted I drove right to the Exxon off the highway and filled up. Went down the road to the pet store and then when I left there the check engine light came on so I stopped at AutoZone. It read for oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 which I believe is the after cat one. After a couple days the light went off.

Then a week later I was leaving work when I started it up and it immediately died. Tried a few more times, same thing. I opened the gas tank as my friend advised after telling him about the previous circumstances, he was thinking maybe vapor lock. I don't think this was the problem since the car was stopped this time and with over 1/2 tank, but I decided to try it anyways. So again after about 15 min and long start with pumping the gas it started.

I chatted with a couple mechanics at work and they said try the fuel filter as it is the easiest and if it is clogged it could cause that. I'm worried the fuel pump is going but I would think it would be a more consistent problem same goes for the fuel filter. The car is due for service this week (Audi Care paid for) so the filter will be changed and still under warranty so I'm hoping they can help out. I'm a little worried because the warranty does run out in December and since the problem is intermittent that the dealer may not be able to reproduce so they won't do anything....and I'll be stuck trying to figure it out. I don't mind paying for it so much as not knowing what it is!

I saw an earlier post that mentioned the intake manifold valve that I believe is used in the regen process could be sticking. I didn't think of that before, but it makes sense and is interesting. Also most of my trips are short so the DPF may not be getting a change to regen. I'm gonna start driving about 40 miles straight once a week on the highway so it can fully regen (hopefully). Anyone have any luck/insight with these problems? I've seen a lot of posts now and suprised Audi/VW haven't done anything... I'll post an update after returning from the dealer.
 

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2012 A3 TDI have owned a few months (only 23k) and has stalled once leaving my driveway and idled badly enough to make me think it would. This happened after I went from a couple of tanks of biodiesel (not knowing better) to a highway diesel purchased at a local Meijers story that supposedly comes with an antifreeze and injector cleaner. I suspect this effectively dislodged something that had likely been accumulating on the fuel filter. I am interested to hear if HockeyMike12 has had any recurrences and will let everyone know if I experience any more severe problems. Having a car stall and die is just about the worst thing I can imagine and have never experienced that with a car since my 1975 Chevy Camaro 30 years ago. CBT
 

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2004 Jetta TDi feels like out of fuel

My daughter chelsea's 04 Jetta has 140K miles on her tdi. This is a well maintained car but this issue has caused us all to be very frustrated to the point that she bought a new car but we still have to fix and sell the old one. Driving along...loses power and stalls, fuel gauge says over 1/2 tank of diesel. Dealer and German Auto mechanic; both scratching head and can't figure out issue. Car isn't throwing any codes and if you put another gallon or two of diesel in, it starts up after priming it a bit, but you better fill it up soon or history repeats itself. We replaced fuel filter and car is well serviced. Beautiful car with issue. Any update on the mystery issue?

Sounds like a bad lift pump.
 

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Hi all. I apologize for not replying sooner.

After having it at the Hampton Audi dealer for services described above, they had the car for almost 2 weeks and ended up changing the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) and said they had solved the issue. I pick up the car and a couple days later the same problem shows up. I bring it back in and they have the car again for over about a week and changed the Low Pressure Fuel Pump (LPFP) since then the problem has gone away and she is driving golden now. Been to Boston and back from VA (1500 miles) and Illinois and back (2k) with no issues. They did say that while they had the car a campaign (recall) had just been issued for all those TDI engines to come in and be looked at because it was a recurring problem. Good to know Audi/VW has finally acknowledged the problem. I'm just glad my baby is fixed free of charge :)
 
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