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Had the Valentine One hardwired with a stealth concealed display on the dash on my B6 Passat, so I had to do it on my new Golf !
It's not hard to do, just a little time consuming.

Tools you need are:
Torx 25 driver
Trim removal tool or small flat head screwdriver
Credit card or driver license (to help tuck the wiring)
Voltmeter (optional)
Dremel
Patience

Here we go,
Enjoy !!!

Here is what you will start with (with regards to the concealed display):



And here is what you will be installing, the stealth display (with it's cord that comes with it), the Valentine 1 radar locator itself, and the Direct-wire power adapter and cord that came with it:





Step 1:
Place the V1 in the location you prefer (for me, it was just right of the interior rear view mirror), this will help in judging how much of the power cord you need to leave hanging there:



Step 2:
Tuck the power cord in the headliner, you can use a credit card or driver's license to help, I just used my fingers. Leave the cord out when you reach the A pillar airbag trim (recommended, you could also just tuck it in there along the A pillar):





Don't see anything ? Good !!! lol


Step 3:
Remove the "AIRBAG" little plastic cover and unscrew the Torx 25 screw behind it, you don't need to take it all out, just enough to get the trim out:





This is what the back of the "AIRBAG" trim looks like, I took it out very carefully with a small flat head screwdriver but you can probably get it off with a trim removal tool too


Step 4:
Remove the fusebox cover and the trim that runs along the door jamb to the A pillar airbag cover, they just clip on:





Step 5:
Remove the A pillar airbag cover piece:



Step 6:
Now run the remainder of the power cord along the existing wiring, I used a single zip tie at the bottom but you can add a couple to secure it to the existing wiring. Then tuck the power cord into the dash forward of the fuse box:





Step 7:
Re-install the A pillar airbag cover piece, there is one clip at the bottom, 3 along the pillar and the Torx 25 screw you removed earlier (don't forget to also re-install the little "AIRBAG" trim after you put the Torx 25 screw back in). I find it is easier to re-install that trim piece while looking thru the windshield from the outside (use a flashlight if your work area is not super well lit). This usually takes a few tries before you get it back in right:



Step 8:
Now we need easy access to the back of the fusebox, the following may sound like a lot of work for not much but it's well worth it. Start by removing the dash trim piece above the headlight switch by pulling on it on the inner part (closer to the steering wheel) it should come off easily, the outer part (near the door) will slide out. Once that is out, take the cover above the steering wheel column below the cluster out by pulling on it (a little harder to remove, don't break it lol), this trim is attached by a "leather" piece to the top of the steering column. If you are going to do the stealth display, remove the top steering column cover piece too and keep it aside for later, it is just clipped on, there is a clip on each side closer to the steering wheel, just pull on it and it will come off:



Step 9:
Remove the headlight switch (push in on the button and then hold it in and trun clockwise until it stop, then pull the switch out and unplug it).

Step 10:
Remove two Torx 25 screws on the bottom of the dash (one towards the side, on towards the center below the steering wheel column), remove the Trox 25 screw behind the headlight switch, and remove the Torx 25 screw below the left side of the center trim you removed in Step 8 (the one attached to the steering column cover by a piece of "leather"). Now the lower left dash piece will come out rather easily (seems only a couple of clips on the fuse box door area hold it in place after the Torx 25 screws are removed):





Step 11:
Remove two Torx 25 screws that secure the fusebox (one on top, one on bottom), this will facilitate the access to the back of the fuse box. Once that is done, unclip the back cover from the fuse box (3 clips) and locate a switched on power source. On my car, the bottom most fuses (3 of them) are all switched 12V sources. According to my owner's manual, the middle one is for the rear wiper motor so I decided to use that one. On the back of the fusebox you will see at the bottom the black with purple stripe wire, you can double check with a Volt meter that this is indeed a switched on power source on your car. Just use the supplied wire tap on that wire, route the positive wire from the Direct-wire power adapter from the V1 and plug it in there. Now you can replace the back fuse box cover and put the fuse box back in place with it's two Torx 25 screws. I also used a zip tie at the exit of the fuse box cover to hold the power wire in place:



Step 12:
Attaching the ground wire from the Direct-wire power adapter, I simply used a Torx 25 screw just forward of the fuse box area, loosen it, connect the ground wire and re-tighten it:



Step 13:
Now the Direct-wire power adapter is just hanging there. Attach the power cord you ran earlier to the appropriate plug, and attach the power cord for the concealed display if you are going to install one, then simply use a zip tie to attach the Direct-wire power adapter somewhere safem (the supplied velcro sucks so I recommend attaching it with a zip tie for a more secure installation):

 

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Step 14:
Now is a good time to make sure your Valentine One works, and concealed display if you are installing one (remember, ignition has to be on !)

Step 15: Run the concealed display power cord to the steering wheel column area and roll/zip tie the extra power cord (I think it's 8ft long so you will have plenty extra).

Step 16:
Re-install the lower left dash trim in the reverse order, first install the trim in place and clip the clips in the fuse box door area, then re-install all 4 Torx 25 screws (2 at the bottom, 1 behind headlight switch, one below center cluster trim. Re-install the small dash trim on the left side by sliding the left side in and clipping the right side. If you are not installing the concealed display, re-install the center trim below the cluster and you are done !

The following steps only apply if you are installing a concealed display.

Step 17:
You will be cutting the trim in order to fit the concealed display in it. I recommend using painter's tape (aka show-car-paint-and-bodywork-protector-from-road-debris) on the trim and display in order to mark the correct locations for cutting, remember, measure twice cut once !







Step 18:
Using a cutting wheel on your Dremel, cut the trim to fit the display. Since the power cord comes out the left side you need to cut an area for it on the trim. That's the way I have it done now but I am planning in the future to mod my display to have the power cord come out the back, buying and cutting a new trim to make both sides of the trim even .... maybe .....:



Step 19:
Re-install the trim in the car (it will only have 2 of the original 4 clips left), connect and install the stealth display in the trim. Use the supplied rear piece on the display and you can use the supplied Velcro to help keep the trim in place. That's it, you're done ! The pics below show the concealed display a little bright but it's not, it's perfect, plus it dims when it gets dark so it matches the interior lighting perfectly at night too !









Remember, I am not responsible for anything that happens while you attempt this mod on your car, do this at your own risk.

Enjoy !!!
 

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Why have the concealed display if the radar detector is still visible above the mirror? Isn't the point to hide the detector?
 

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The point for me is to have my info all grouped up together in a single location, most other people get it this way people don't follow you once they see your V1 lit up on the windshield, I used to believe that never happened until I started driving with it in our van non hard wired and no concealed display and people would stay near me as soon as they saw I had a V1, slowing down when I slowed down and speeding up when I sped up, never bothered me though
 

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Thank you for the great write up! I used this to hardwire mine. One question though, how did you get that torx screw on the dash without losing your mind? I was cursing with every 1/8 of a turn.
 
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