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Hey guys,

I'm doing an engine removal/swap/install, and as per Mr. BangBang's request I'm going to document everything that I can so hopefully it'll help someone out. I'll break down these how-to's into smaller jobs so that it isn't one long-run-on DIY post. I've learned quite a bit about these VW's in a short amount of time (I usually work on BMW's), so if you need anything please contact me, I have a ton of pics.

This DIY is for removal of the serpentine belt, tensioner, alternator, power steering pump, and AC compressor. I will show most of the procedure with the engine out for clarity, but I'll point out a few things with the engine in the car so you'll know what you're going to run into... enjoy!!

Disclaimer: You do not need to remove the engine to replace the serpentine belt, or any other belt driven accesory :p

First, remove the engine top/bottom covers, which ones you remove will depend on what you're doing. For serp belt replacement you can just remove the upper cover, but removing the lower cover is helpful when doing the PS pump, but... all the belt driven accessories CAN be removed from the top.

Remove the intercooler outlet pipe. There are two retaining clips you can pop up with a pick or screwdriver. They only pop up about 1/4"-1/2", do not completely remove them. Snake out the wire that runs along side of it, and take the coolant lines out from the clips. It's up to you if you want to remove the coolant pipes from the overflow tank and tuck them out of the way, you can work around them.

Here is the serpentine belt route, you can see the alternator at the top, the compressor below it, and the power steering pump at the bottom.



Put a 16mm open end wrench on the tab of the tensioner, swing the wrench clockwise(towards the front of the car) to relieve the belt tension. You can then either remove the belt and slowly allow the tensioner to return to it's rest position, or put a small punch in the tensioner hole to keep it in it's 'tensioned' position. PLEASE WATCH YOUR HANDS AND FINGERS, BE CAREFUL!



Remove the 3 bolts on the tensioner. Should be 13mm.



Remove the two bolts on the alternator. There are also two electrical connectors on back of the alternator, one is the battery connection which is a nut, and the second is a clip connector. Bolts on front are 13mm.



You'll need to use a pry bar to persaude the alternator to leave...



Next, to remove the compressor, there are two bolts on the front, I believe 16mm's.



If you are removing the compressor you need to disconnect the two lines on the back, which are 6mm hex heads. If you are removing/replacing the compressor evacuate the AC system first, don't add to the hole in the ozone :D Otherwise you can leave the lines attatched and use a wire hanger to hold the compressor out of the way. The upper bolt can not be removed as it is sleeved, and it hits the frame rail, you need to bring it out with the compressor, and remove it after moving the compressor. You can also see that there is one electrical connection on the backside of the compressor that needs to be removed. You will also need to use a prybar to get the compressor out.





The PS pump is a little different, first, the pulley needs to be removed, you need to hold the pulley still while removing the hex bolts. Put a screwdriver through one of the oval holes and jam it against the pump body. Then remove the hex bolts.



You can then remove the 3 bolts on the front of the power steering pump, and then there is one hiding on the back. You can then either swing the pump out of the way and hang it up, or remove the two power steering lines and let the fluid drain out. If the fluid is drained remember that the power steering system will need to be bled after it is reinstalled.



Here is the bolt on the back of the pump.



You will also need to use a prybar to give the PS pump a little nudge, it shouldn't take too much pressure on the pry bar for any of these components. If you're really fighting, stop and take a look to see if something is jammed.



If you are going to be swinging the PS pump out of the way without unhooking it, you need to remove the bolt on the metal power steering line on the underside of the engine block.



And if you need to go a step farther and replace the accessory mount, there are 6x16mm bolts holding it to the engine block.

 

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Great post :) FYI, the small hole in the serp belt tensioner is for a VW pin (you can use a nail) to hold the tensioner in the loose position. Since it'll be off the engine for a while, it's probably better that it's not locked in the loose position since it's stressing the spring.

I've already added some of your pictures to the timing belt writeup for BEW engine because it shows the serpentine belt so well, many thanks!

PS, who is Michael? Email sent.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks. I usually use a small punch if I need to, but I usually leave it in the unsprung position, habit I picked up somewhere along the way.

Obviously you aren't Micheal :) I edited it, email replied... my bad!
 

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the small hole in the serp belt tensioner is for a VW pin (you can use a nail) to hold the tensioner in the loose position. Since it'll be off the engine for a while, it's probably better that it's not locked in the loose position since it's stressing the spring.
I usually use a small punch if I need to, but I usually leave it in the unsprung position, habit I picked up somewhere along the way.
While I agree with you about keeping the serpentine tensioners in the unstressed position, don't they normally come with the pin in place when purchased new?

Yuri
 

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Discussion Starter #5
While I agree with you about keeping the serpentine tensioners in the unstressed position, don't they normally come with the pin in place when purchased new?

Yuri
I don't think we really need to be worrying about wearing the spring out by keeping it in the sprung position. It's mostly for ease of belt installation, which is why the new one comes locked in place. You put it in, throw the belt on, and brake the retaining tab off and let it spring into place. It's also for safety, so you don't have to be holding tension on it while having your fingers around the pulleys.

Like I said, doing it day in and day out I don't usually use the pin. To me it's an extra step, but hey, either way works, so to each his own
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Feh... it has at least a month or so left in it...

Yuri
that belt is golden! it's like calculating gas mileage, you can't figure out how long something really lasts until you let it go till it won't go no more! but a new belt came with the timing belt kit, so i went ahead and replaced it, following my own instructions no less :D
 

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Great DIY. Removal of the AC compressor and alternator is much easier than re-installing it (especially with the engine in the bay). WD40 was a real big help!
 

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You might wish to add a reminder for less experienced mechanics to disconnect the (negative terminal to the) battery before attempting to disconnect the wires from the alternator...

Yuri
 

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Hi.

Need some advice please. Followed the instructions to replace power steering pump. Bled it etc. Now steering judders. What, if anything, have I done wrong? The pulley was loose on old one and I thought that was causing a rattle but no Luck!
 
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