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Diesel Addatives?

11692 Views 34 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  turbobrick240, 
C
Say, I always kept a small box with several screw top jars of addative in it I'd use every fill up. 2 oz. summer and 4 in winter. Anybody have advice or suggestions regarding this practice?

Thanks-
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A
@VWDoggy

Recommending an additive is tantamount to admitting that there's a design flaw in the CR engine. That would open the doors for a class action lawsuit and probable brand dilution.
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C
Aaron Butler said:
Hey Dave,

Additional additives are probably overkill for those of us using B2 in high cetane states like TX, but they won't hurt.
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What do you mean by high cetane state? I live in Houston, is the diesel here required to be higher cetane?
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cheefpilot said:
What do you mean by high cetane state? I live in Houston, is the diesel here required to be higher cetane?
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I thought that was the case, but after reading the law a bit further it seems that it's a bit more complicated. Here's the law:

http://www.tceq.state.tx.us/assets/public/implementation/air/sip/miscdocs/DRAFT.TxLEDQnA.pdf

If I'm reading it right, the cetane rating for diesel sold in Texas must range between 43 and 49.
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Aaron Butler said:
@VWDoggy

Recommending an additive is tantamount to admitting that there's a design flaw in the CR engine. That would open the doors for a class action lawsuit and probable brand dilution.
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Okay so selling cars with a design flaw issue caused by ULSD won't dilute the brand image when engines crap out early? Not trying to argue but I do enjoy the banter... thanks for the reply. :thumbsup
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A
These forums aren't representative of the overall VW buying population. With HPFP failures at < 1%, the only people that fret about it are guys like us.

If VW were to admit that there was a design problem explicitly or implicitly, the issue would be much better known by the automotive media and thus the car buying public.
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Aaron Butler said:
These forums aren't representative of the overall VW buying population. With HPFP failures at < 1%, the only people that fret about it are guys like us.

If VW were to admit that there was a design problem explicitly or implicitly, the issue would be much better known by the automotive media and thus the car buying public.
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Yes, car companies are secretive and like to hide their problems. I agree very few drivers want to know anything about their cars. My favs are the Fords ad; the one with the women saying "like I would know what 20s are?"

I have a 2010 Ford Escape, company car, that had a series of leaking axle seals, axles and finally a trans-axle case all before a TSB was even issued. Same for Mercury Sable that ate rear brakes and calipers; Ford claimed faulty brake pads; issued recall right after company paid $500 to fix...

Japanese are not forthright either... that is why there are forums like this for all brands.
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daveinpa
Wow - what a few days of research will do...

I am new to the TDI & Diesel... so taking all this in. I live in PA and am hoping my Biodiesel blend the state is mandating (currently a B5 I think) will be helpful. I've seen people criticise the variety of grades... and cetane - geez. Guess I have to go into the stations and ask them for their print outs.

I did find this site and this it's great for a novice like me.
Lubricity Additive Study Results but that was 4 years ago... maybe it's changed since.

I wanted to see if someone has a one page overview for proper Diesel usage and what they SHOULD know before putting it in their tank ... any ideas?

I've found some of these pointers helpful to be mindful of:
  • Cetane Levels
  • % of Bio Important
  • Additive (vary winter one... summer one)
  • Sock to place over the pump - filter crap before going into tank
  • Only fill at high volume stations
  • Keep Receipts (just in case)

What I am really trying to understand is what we should use as a baseline for proper Diesel formulations in the US too. Of course, there are no standards right now and I think that's why I personally am in need of this cheat sheet to reference. Would be great to also get us all pushing government toward a baseline too.

Any help is appreciated!
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I have been additizing my fuel with PS d kleen and b100. The US has lower lubricity requirements for ulsd than what the Bosch fuel injection system was designed to use. Biodiesel is the best lubricity additive. I run a B2 blend. The hpfp is noticeably quieter when vehicle is first shut off with Bio in the tank. The fuel must be adequately winterized here in maine, because I run no additives in my powerstroke or kubota and have never had gelling. If you choose to use biodiesel be very careful not to spill it on your paint, it is a great solvent.
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So, I was wondering about the effect all of these additives may have on the DPF, and I was thinking about adding one of the 507 spec oils to the fuel, similiar to the 2-stroke oil in the spicer report, but with a much lower ash content. What do you guys think?
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Bovis said:
I was thinking about adding one of the 507 spec oils to the fuel
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how much are you supposed to add per tank? Sounds like it might be expensive.
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B
Well, in the spicer report, the 2-cycle oil was mixed in a 200:1 ratio, 16.64 oz/tank. But yeah, that probably would be expensive.
I went throught the MSDS for the Opti-lube products, many of the ingredients would cause soot build-up in large quantities, (e.g. naphthalene), I'm not sure how they behave at recommended doses and whether over a 100,000 miles or so they would cause any damage.
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It's just that the 507 oils seem like a safe bet b/c they're already in the engine. I wonder how much it costs to do a HFRR test.
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Here is the spicer report

I also have a bosch positin paper from 2003, but it exceeds the size limit

Attachments

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16.64 oz/tank
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in that study the tank was 26 gal, so in a golf/jetta it would be approximately 8 oz
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Bovis said:
in that study the tank was 26 gal, so in a golf/jetta it would be approximately 8 oz
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two stroke oil would be more suitable than 507 as a diesel fuel lubricity additive in every way. Biodiesel would be much better than either.
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