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CV Joint woes.

2012 Views 1 Reply 2 Participants Last post by  chittychittybangbang
Ok, fix one thing like the turbo and then with all that extra power now I have an inner CV joint vibration under load. I swear it never ends.

I've been reading and reading and want a sanity check for those that have done this before.

It looks like with the inner CV joints you can swap the races from each side so the "worn" side goes to the non-driving (except in reverse) parts of the joints and get some more mileage out of them.

I've checked under the car and it looks like one of the boots has a small tear in it so I'm sure that's what happened.

Is it worth buying the genuine boots at twice the price of the "German" boots and remove and clean all the parts of the CV joint and then re-grease and reboot and install them on the "other" side from where they came?

I can see not going with cheaper knockoffs on the actual parts if they are under stress but I'm thinking with the boots and clips and such that the generic may be as good as the genuine but half the price.

Am I right here?

Of course if I get the CV joint out and it looks torn up inside I'll have no choice but to replace it, those babies aren't cheap are they?!?! jaw drops

Thanks as always for the insight!

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I've never had a problem with generic CV boots. In fact, VW boots aren't known for having very long lives anyways.

However, VW axles and joints are pretty good and generic ones tend to be not as good. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. I would stick with a genuine joint. The left and right inner CV joints have different part numbers but I don't know what the difference is. The inner boots also have different part numbers. The tripod/triple roller style appears to have the same number. The outer joints have the same part number for left vs. right.

FYI here is ecs tuning's page with part numbers: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--TDI/Drivetrain/Driveshaft/
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