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I recently purchased a BRM timing belt kit for my '06 Jetta from blauparts.com and rented their tool kit to perform the installation. The kit comes with new camshaft and crankshaft oil seals, instructions to perform the replacement and the necessary tools to accomplish the replacement. So far everything has been smooth except the crankshaft oil seal replacement; I can't seem to get the crankshaft bolt to budge. I read the article on replacing the timing belt and noted where it said not to remove the crankshaft bolt. However, I have traces of oil around the crankshaft oil seal and would like to replace it. Any help in accomplishing this would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The way I've read it is you have to lock the crank at the flywheel end through the inspection hole for lining up the timing, in the article I seen the guy made his own tool for holding the crank securely then got it off that way, I don't know if you're any good with a file to make a toothed tool or you might be able to get someone to hold it with a crow bar or jemmy bar, I'm not sure what you guys call them. You then take out the bolts holding the flange in place and replace the seal, the crankshaft bolt is torqued at 66lbs ft + a quarter turn. This is for the Mk3 but apparently they're pretty much the same.:)

welcometomyturbodies
 

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The crankshaft gear is being held in position by the proper tool. I feel that I have applied more that sufficient torque (200+ Ft. lbs.) both clockwise and anticlockwise to loosen the bolt and it WON'T budge.
 

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It's a single use only bolt so you need a new one. It's wicked tight so you need a crank yank tool or OEM VW tool to hold the sprocket. A crow bar won't work, in fact it'll probably damage the teeth. Chitty rents tools, you could try sending him a PM.
 

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Looking at their tool kit... is the crankshaft lock that (almost) triangular metal piece that goes under the front of the block/oil pan?

That bolt is frightfully tight... on the ALH engine it's 88 Ft*Lbs plus 90 degrees... 3/4" drive socket is very helpful... I struggled with a 1/2" drive I had to use (because the official VW crankshaft lock bar didn't have enough space for my 3/4" drive socket)... oh, I also used a 5-1/2 foot long cheater pipe...

Just keep plugging away at it...

Yuri
 

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Yes, you need a crank yank tool of some sort and I can rent it. I can send it out tomorrow via usps priority, send me a PM if interested.

The Bentley doesn't say anything about the bolt torque or seal installation but the 2.0L engines use 66 ft-lb + 1/4 turn. It's very tight.

To install the ALH engine seal you use VW tool 3265: http://buy.equipmentsolutions.com/VWAudiEcom/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?type=Tools&ItemId=14810007 , because the BRM oil seal is the same part number I imagine that you also use this same tool. If you want to buy this tool I'll buy it off you when you're done. The idea is that it covers the crankshaft snub to prevent damage to the lip and presses the seal to the correct depth evenly. You could also make your own drift.
 

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It's a single use only bolt so you need a new one. It's wicked tight so you need a crank yank tool or OEM VW tool to hold the sprocket. A crow bar won't work, in fact it'll probably damage the teeth. Chitty rents tools, you could try sending him a PM.
I was on about the ring gear on the other end, that does work as long as you have someone suitable hold it nice and tight but they also have to be prepared to say stop if they feel it's not holding sufficiently, under no circumstances would I hold the little sprocket at the front end for anything other than timing lock.:)
 

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Thank you to all who replied and gave their suggestions and ideas. I finally got it loose. I used a 17 inch 1/2 inch drive pull handle and standard 19mm socket and pulled for all I was worth with my left foot against the right lower control arm. It was alot of pulling; I know that I was pulling hard enough to dead lift 200 pounds and with a lever 1 and 1/2 feet long. Initially, I didn't consider the First Law of Engineering - If something doesn't move by force, then you're not applying enough force. I had no idea that a bolt just slightly larger than a lug bolt in diameter could withstand that much torque (enough for the holding fixture to leave an imprint against the oil pan flange).
Anyone thinking about attempting crankshaft oil seal replacement should be prepared to use this method. A 1/2 in. air impact won't budge it. Anyway thank you again for your suggestions.
 
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