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BEW (2005 TDI) I removed the alternator (and power steering, but not really needed) and was able to bend the compressor up enough to remove the clutch.
Now checking my and my friends stash of compressors and hope to find a clutch swap on.
 

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no idea... the clutch only fails when the compressor is failing inside causing a load on the clutch... people get pissed after burning up a new one as they did not wanna hear it.. so i only replace whole unit or send them to a hack aka not me not my problem... too difficult to eat a ac clutch, pretty hard on the teeth and 0 netrution.. and i refuse to waste my money or time, have too many times in the past

i know a person in columbus ohio with one off his totaled 04 bew though.. car was hit all sides but fenders forward.. so i doubt the crash hurt it.. but again.. it did do a few 360 into a mail box that took out the other side.. got t boned... i see no reason he would not sell the compressor as he went back to a ve style tdi and only has his in-laws bew now... and he would only buy new for it. but is a 04 and 05 the same?? this was a mk4 body...

in 05 they have both bodies... mk4 wagon, mk5 sedans (gas at lease with the 2.5)... not sure what year wagons got a upgraded body... but by 06 the tdi sedans were mk5...
 

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no idea... the clutch only fails when the compressor is failing inside causing a load on the clutch... people get pissed after burning up a new one as they did not wanna hear it.. so i only replace whole unit or send them to a hack aka not me not my problem... too difficult to eat a ac clutch, pretty hard on the teeth and 0 netrution.. and i refuse to waste my money or time, have too many times in the past
I am picking up a compressor (supposedly all Mk4 gas or diesel use my BEW compressor) at local junkyard in about an hour. I will transfer the clutch over (I have a known good compressor, who knows what junk the one is I get), its easy enough. But mostly, it saves me from cracking open the lines, get evacuated, filled, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I replaced just the clutch coil about 5-6 years ago and ac still working as a champ if this helps anyone
 

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my compressor clutch engages but i think it is not turning the compressor. Is that even likely???
When not engaged the clutch plate (no not the pulley/belt) turns with only slight resistance, seems like it should turn with considerable resistance.
I have no other Vdubs to check this theory.
Do I need a new compressor?
 

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It should not have too much resistance... just a bit of "pulling"... what model / year car is this?
 

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It should not have too much resistance... just a bit of "pulling"... what model / year car is this?
2001 Jetta

With the clutch engage it will not build pressure the A/C gauge set needles don't move on the high or low side; both are at 70-80 psi. No idea what problem could be
 

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Do these compressors' coils have/use diodes?

I recently replaced my compressor (installed a new one): I'd suspected a bad valve on the old one; that compressor had worked fine up until about a year ago (20 years isn't a bad run). I replaced the car-side wiring connector shell as the original one broke when I'd disconnected it, and I managed to get the wires swapped when installing the new shell.

I'd had the system evacuated and recharged (all in accordance with standard practices; I replaced drier and evaporator; also replaced the condenser due to breaking the hard line to the drier- corrosion). Activate A/C and nothing. No compressor clutch engagement: old compressor's clutch DID engage, in which case this is a new issue. Both cooling fans continued to run (so, yes, the cooling fans work!), and did/do so even with the key removed from the ignition. Blown fuse, #16. Replace fuse and same result when switching A/C on. Compressor coil resistance appears to be about 0.3 ohms (really hard to get meter probes on the pins!). For sure seems like the coil circuitry is now bad. What I'm not sure of is whether the reversed wires were the cause or whether something else is the culprit: I don't want to replace/fix the coil only to find myself right back in this situation. If there's a diode then the reversed wires likely killed it and that is the source cause.

My old compressor's coil reads 3.6 ohms, so I suppose that if need be I can just use it: getting it apart is another story as it lived a lot of its life w/o a splash shield on the car (and in Minnesota! [none of this my doing]).

NOTE: I'm a bit physically impaired at this time, in which case any significant wrenching isn't currently possible.
 

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I'll answer my own question: NO, no diodes.

Likely a bad coil (new compressor DOA).
 

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OK, I'm B A C K!

Had to fight a bit to get the clutch out of the new compressor, only to find that the new compressor's pulley ID is smaller than factory-spec, meaning a generic, factory-spec coil will NOT fit (pulley won't fit over the replacement coil). Apparently Nissen, the manufacturer, decided to take some liberties. I'm dead in the water right now: waiting to hear from vendor.

So, be forewarned that replacement coils, even if spec'd correctly, may not fit the compressor that you have (if the compressor isn't stock).
 

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Another note to add and that's that the Nissen's shaft is keyed, which eliminates the possibility of using any other clutch. I'd advise to NOT buy a Nissen.

I'm now stuck. Likley have to shell out for another Nissen in order to get a functional coil.
 
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