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ac compressor clutch/coil removal DIY

Here we go, as I promised, - enjoy!

take a note of the belt routing before starting this procedure

1. use 15mm open end wrench or anything similar to pull serpentine belt tensioner towards the front of car, this will release the tension of the belt and have a nail ready so that you can push the nail through the both openings and lock tensioner in released position.
2. remove 3 x 13mm tensioner bolts to to take out belt tensioner (very easy)
3. remove 2 x 13mm alternator mount bolts, remove the plastic cap that is protecting main alternator to battery (thick black) wire to be able to see 1 x 13mm nut, remove that nut.
4. now you can use pry-bar to separate alternator away from the engine
5. in picture #1 you can see two long bolts that hold AC compressor, you can use 16mm deep socket with 3/8 drive from the top to loosen top bolt and the same for the bottom bolt but from the bottom side. (you don't even have to remove the plastic side splash shield and the plastic cooler hose).
6. you can now remove 2 x 16mm ac compressor bolts (yes you will have enough room).
7. even with bolts removed ac compressor will be in its place stuck so you will have to use pry-bar again to separate it from the engine. This time have something handy like wire or something that you can tie the compressor in the clutch up position like I did on picture #2 WARNING DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY AC LINES, ALSO BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU PULL THE COMPRESSOR UP SO THAT YOU DON'T BREAK THE PLASTIC COOLANT HOSE PIPE NEAR THE ENGINE BLOCK OR DAMAGE COOLANT HOSE.
8. now everything is easy, spray some pb blaster or wd40 on the center bolt and remove the center 15mm bolt while using chenel locks to hold the 3 little circles from the clutch like I did on picture 3
9. bolt was easy to remove, and now you can simply lift the clutch up and remove it like I did on picture 4 (be careful not to loose thin shim that will be stuck to the other side of the clutch
10. once the clutch is removed you will be able to see the pulley side of the clutch mechanism, you will also see snap-ring inside see picture #6 (this one was easy)
11. as I said this snap ring was easy to remove, now you will have to use pry-bar or bigger flat head please see my note on picture #4 where arrow show you will use one of the bolts as a leverage point to pry under the pulley and lift up (surprisingly pulley lifted up without any problems).
12. once pulley is out, you will see the clutch coil, (you will see it as on the last picture of the part one - but this was my new coil installed)
13. WARNING in order to remove the coil you will have to fight for some time with this bigger snap ring, my pliers did not open wide enough so I finally decided to use the help of smaller flat head screwdriver ( I knew it was dangerous, I had protective glasses and this spring literally jumped into my forehead and bounced of in the direction of the coolant reservoir. So be careful please!
14. once you remove your coil, you will see same as I did on picture #11 of the first part.
15. save your old connector from the old coil since new coils will not come with connector, see pictures 7 and 8.
16. on picture #9 you will see small arrow showing this little guide pin on the clutch coil, you will have to put this guide pin into the little dent shown with an arrow on picture #11
17. make sure that during your installation of the dangerous snap ring the coil does not jump out of its locking place.
18. again shorter fight with installation of the snap ring (since mine was bending and wasn't going on straight I had to use smaller screwdriver to keep pressure on the opposite end of the ring to so it does not slide up as I push the other end down.
19. install pulley and its snap ring
20. see picture #4 of the second par, note that there are splines and flat spot on the shaft, the same is on the clutch (see picture #3 and #4 of the second part) so make sure they click in with each other. (don't forget the shim under the clutch)
21. again repeat the same step from picture #3 of the first part to tighten the center bolt and you are done.
22. install compressor back to its place (put some grease on the mounting area so that the compressor slides in easier
23. install alternator (this would be good opportunity to check alt. pulley vs alt fan operation)
24 install serpentine belt tensioner
25. don't forget belt :)

Also if you have problems with cooling fans and suspect that your fan control module FCM is bad, do not order another one before you check my pdf fille on the bottom of part 2.
 

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:thumbsup Great pics! I am not an AC guy though, so any explanation of them? They aren't self explanatory to me :) Here are the notes from your .pdf Please double check that I got it right because the very left edge of the pdf was a little cut off.

almir said:
My symptoms were:

after rubber burning smell AC comp stopped working.

Measured resistance of AC clutch coil -> Open
Measured voltage going to AC comp -> 4.5V
Large fan didn't work with AC ON, only small fan worked at low speed.
With AC ON, ignition ON, engine OFF, fan set to 1, both fans must work at low speed, mine didn't.
Measure voltage going to the big fan and both red wires (red/white) and (red/black) were giving voltage at the same time. One was 12V and the other 7V so that the fan didn't know at what speed to spin. After cutting one of the red wires with 12V fan worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for joining both of them together,

If you click on pictures you could see some short notes and arrows indicating important parts, ex: picture 138 and 139 have arrows indicating that the little nipple from picture 138 goes into the little dent on picture 139. I will post all notes later. This was just quick picture posting for "Jeff" looks like he was stuck. As you see no special tools needed.

Another thing I wanted to ask you which I believe would help some of us save money.

create a post for electrical parts resistance testing.

example: my FCM resistance from new part so that people know in future when they remove their fcm they can check and compare, so if ohms are close then they shouldn't buy another FCM etc.

Thanks for rewriting my notes! Almir
 

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Hi

I have a same problem . my car is 2001 vw 1.9tdi ALH . mesured resistance (pin3-4)~0.250 Mohm. My bigest fan blower motor didn't work and the coil resisitance is unlimited. voltage to coil 3,7V. i need to replace FCM and Coil, ?Please help me ! please take a picture ac pulley . My ac pulley is only steel without any friction materials. Is normal???
Sorry I don't speak to much english but undersand ;)
 

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Great write-up. I am considering winding my own replacement coil. Can you tell me the resistance of the factory coil?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great write-up. I am considering winding my own replacement coil. Can you tell me the resistance of the factory coil?
mine was 3.4 ohms, so I believe anywhere between 3 and 4 ohms is good. If you are interested in FCM bypass with 7 relays which will last you the lifetime of vehicle let me know. Why I did this? Because my new FCM did not last more than 10 days. Found 7 relays on junkyard made my own FCM. :D
 

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Stripped shaft or clutch spline

Hi, I am new to the forum. I have been reading posts for a while but wanted to reply so I registered. Very detailed description of the compressor removal. I bought a clutch kit off ebay and began to tackle it myself. I thought the easy part was going to be getting the center nut (14mm hex) off.. However when I held the clutch plate (jammed screwdriver between 2 of the studs) and turned the nut, the whole shaft is spinning. I assume that either the clutch plate or the shaft spline is stripped. Is there any other way to hold the shaft so I can get that nut off. I am trying not to take the compressor apart if possible as I just had it charged. I have read some posts about turning on the key and turning on the AC to hold it but I can't do that as my clutch is toast (No resistance). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi, I am new to the forum. I have been reading posts for a while but wanted to reply so I registered. Very detailed description of the compressor removal. I bought a clutch kit off ebay and began to tackle it myself. I thought the easy part was going to be getting the center nut (14mm hex) off.. However when I held the clutch plate (jammed screwdriver between 2 of the studs) and turned the nut, the whole shaft is spinning. I assume that either the clutch plate or the shaft spline is stripped. Is there any other way to hold the shaft so I can get that nut off. I am trying not to take the compressor apart if possible as I just had it charged. I have read some posts about turning on the key and turning on the AC to hold it but I can't do that as my clutch is toast (No resistance). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Jake

Hi, I don't think it is 14mm, it should be 15mm. If you fallow my instructions you will be OK. Use big channel locks to hold clutch in place. But before that spray 15mm with some PB blaster. It should work. And you will not have to discharge 134a. Remove alternator, remove 2 bolts for compressor then pull the compressor up so that clutch faces towards you, then tie the compressor in that position with a wire or rope.
 

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Will this procedure work for a gas Jetta?

Hello,

I stumbled across your instructions while looking for instructions for doing this for my 2003 gas Jetta. I registered for this forum so that I could view your images. Now, I've found some pretty detailed instructions over on vwvortex, but those mention pulling the front end (along with instructions for moving the front lock carrier to the "service" position). It looks to me, from your images, that I may not have to do this (I'd just rather avoid pulling the front end if possible). Now, and I realize that you have a tdi so may not have seen a gas Jetta for comparison, but do you happen to know if the dimensions are significantly different? I'm thinkning about the amount of space between the compressor, and,. say, the fans. It doesn't LOOK like it, but I figured I'd ask on the off chance that you may have seen both for comparison.
In any case, I think I'm just going to try it; it seems like I can still pull the front end after having at least removed the alternator/tensioner/compressor, etc.

Thanks!

~Sean
 

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remove the plastic cap that is protecting main alternator to battery (thick black) wire to be able to see 1 x 13mm nut, remove that nut.
I would disconnect the battery before letting a hot wire dangle anywhere in the engine compartment...

Just pointing out the obvious - which a newbie may miss...

Yuri
 

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Thank you for this information.
I own a 2002 Golf TDI. The AC hasn't worked since the prior owner (about 3 yrs since the last time the Ac was operational).

With the help of this thread (in particular) and information over on the the TDI Forum my AC is now operational !
The problems were:
*Faulty fan modual
*Faluty Fan (Driver's Side)
*Faulty AC clutch coil

The AC now runs strong and COLD

Thank you ! :D
 

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Question

Hi everyone,
nice tutorial, very explicit.
I have 99 Jetta TDI AGR, climatronic.
AC is working, but the fans are not running at low speed. When the pressure reaches 16 bars they start at high speed and then stop. I think that they should work at low speed constantly with the AC on, right?
I checked the FCM and found out that all contacts are open. If the FCM is the problem, how comes that the fans run at high?

Please, can you give me an advice?

Thanks
 

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Great tutorial. really helped alot as I undertook this on a VW New beetle (which was quite a bit tighter under the hood !)

John
 
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