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My 2006 Vw TDI has the check engine light ON and the D T C is P2112- which is Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed. The car starts and runs great and have no drivability problems.
What is the function of this this throttle actuator and if it is stuck closed how does the car drive normal. What damage can be done if I do not rectify this and continue driving with the light on. I was given to understand that the complete throttle body needs to be replaced which is CDN $ 350.00.

Can some body throw some light on this.

Thanks
 

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I think that's the asv on your car, they changed them to electrical on the newer cars where as the older ones were vacuum, it's maybe just a bit gunked up and needing a clean. If you pop off the intake pipe going to the inlet manifold it should be visible in there and you can see if it's really gunked or not.:)
 

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Same Problem - Solutions?

I just bought a 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI with 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on (with this code attached) after the seller (used car dealership) had replaced the throttle body just 12 days and 600 miles ago (I'm not sure what code they got at the time). I'm still covered under their 30-day warranty, so I'd like to get the problem dealt with sooner rather than later. Unfortunately, I'm 200 miles away from the dealership.

Has anyone had this same problem, and any solutions? Thanks.
 

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VAG Error Code: 18544/9123

EOBD II Error Code:
P2112


Fault Location:

Throttle Actuator Control System - Actuator Stuck Closed
Possible Cause:
Wiring/Connector(s).
Throttle body.
Throttle valve tight/sticking.

Possible Solutions:
Check/Replace all faulty Wiring/Connector(s).
Check Actuator operation.
Read Measuring Value Blocks (MVB).

As taken from my new Free EOBD II Error Codes software
 

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We own a 2006 TDI which experiences the same problem for some time now. Engine light stays on for some time and you also can hear the throttle control actuator acting up. Than after awhile the engine light goes off and the problem disappears. I have been following the postings on this forum as well as other forums but nobody had taken apart the electronic TC valve.
Any advise if this valve can be taken apart?
 

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After posting the last message, I decided to take the TAC apart and found that the actuator plastic gear was stripped which caused a grinding noise and the valve stayed wide open. I will be of to the dealer to get a new TAC.
 

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Code P2112-Fix

I had this same code. I replaced the Anti Shutter Valve (ASV) or as the code calls it the Throttle body actuator and there was no change. The engine runs fine but I needed to clear the code to pass smog in Calif. It kept saying "stuck valve". To check it you can remove the air tube from the ASV and the butterfly valve should close for 3 sec when you shut the engine off. Finally I checked the wiring harness with an Ohm meter. To do this you follow the instructions in the Bentley service manual: remove the windshield wipers, the plastic hood cover, the firewall protector(two screws), two twist off screws that you have to cut a screwdriver slot into with a hacksaw blade, and finally you can remove the wiring harness from the ECU(Engine Control Unit). You remove the connector by pulling the side towards you straight towards you and it moves the connector off the ECU. Then you have access to the pins so you can check the resistance. Next you remove the 5 pin connector from the ASV and using the wiring diagram from the Bentley manual check the continuity pin to pin. Resistance should be near zero. In my case the final wire for the power for the motor was reading open circuit. The "Stuck Valve" code is just the valve movement indicator saying it is not moving. In my case it was a black wire with a white stripe in a twisted pair. I double checked this and then started to isolate the open in the wire. I had a fine needle to poke through the wire to isolate where the open circuit was, but before doing that, I noticed the corrugated wire cover in the front of the engine at the lowest point just behind the radiator had aftermarket tape on it indicating someone had been in there. So I opened it up and looked at the harness. At the lowest point of the harness the wire was worn through and separated. I originally obtained the car from Connecticut where I believe they sand the roads. The sand had gotten into the harness, probably wet, and flowed to the lowest point in the harness where as the harness vibrated it wore through the lowest wire of the bundle. So I spliced the wire-difficult to solder because the wire was corroded but I eventually got it-put heat shrink over it, cleaned out the sand, inspected all the wires of which some others were worn too-wrapped it all in tape, put the cover on and it was all fixed. I assume this is a fairly common occurrence with open circuits occurring at the lowest wire in the bundle in a random fashion and driving people like us nuts as strange codes happen with no apparent reason. Anyway, hope this saves someone lots of trouble.
 
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