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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for part 2 of this job. The link does not work.


I have an intermittent knock sound coming from my trans. Trying to determine if this job is within my capabilities. I've heard there is a trick regarding pushing the engine forward to get the transmission out.
 

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Bad link, but searching for it picked it up:

I've done that a few times, it's a pain. I've used an engine hanger, engine hoist, and 2x4 with a ratchet strap (with pieces screwed into each side of the 2x4 to raise it up a decent amount) to hold the engine up different times; I think the hoist was easiest but obviously not great if you don't have one or the space for it.

The engine forward trick is basically to stick the spare tire jack between the engine and the subframe and open it up to push it forward. There's never enough room under there and I always end up slipping the jack or getting something caught... it's not fun, but if you're strong enough to be able to fairly easily bench press the tranny, you should be fine. I never had any luck using a tranny jack, also it's too tall to roll out from under the car if you're not on a lift, so I just wrestle it onto something that rolls (normally the creeper). If you're still running the original dual mass flywheel, you might just want to buy a replacement as it's almost certainly shot. Also I recommend getting a new shift fork, throwout bearing, and the little round-headed bolt the fork pivots on because they're cheaper to replace now than taking it apart again. IDparts used to sell a kit of all the single use bolts, and it looks like they still do. I'd check the engine & tranny mounts to see if they're shot too - if you're pulling the bolts you might as well swap the worn out rubber bits at the same time (you can hold off on swapping out the engine side until you do the timing belt).

One thing that I found particularly worthwhile was I built 6 cribbing block sets, so I lifted the front, rear, front again, and had loads of room under there and it was quite stable. I did that the first time I pulled the trans, and still have them. Sure they're heavy & take up space, but when you're pulling & pushing late at night under there, it's good peace of mind to have the car on a solid pedestal. They do use up a lot of wood & screws, though. There's a writeup on here too:

If you'd like I can take some pics of mine, they've held up well over the .... 10 or 12 or so years since I made them. Be warned I'm terribly busy so it might take me a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the tips!

This is the kit I had purchased (I also added in the rear main seal).


How are you setting the front tires on cribbing blocks if they have to come off for this project?
 

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You don't need to remove the tires, just disconnect the drive shafts from the transmission, and it's nice to tie them up out of the way.
Many people have done this with just axle stands, to be fair, but you need to lift the front fairly high to be able to slide out the trans, and that makes me nervous. I happened to have a lot of scrap 2x4 & 2x6 offcuts when I made mine, but if you need to buy wood maybe a larger footprint axle stand would be cheaper. I also had to stack blocks on my jack to get it up high enough, as you need to lift past the bottom stroke of the suspension. They are a pain to use, heavy, and take up a lot of space.

I ended up taking some photos so you can see how they stack together, the 2x4 on the underside of the upper block set really locks it in there (3rd pic), and the wheels are stuck between the top 2x6s so they can't roll off. I made mine 2' long x 16" wide, and you can see they'll give you 14" of lift on the front. For comparison, my 6T axle stands go up to 23", but you have to remove the height of the body, about 9 or 10", giving you roughly the same amount of lift. At that height you couldn't pay me to go under there, though. I won't say that this design is the best, it's just what I made at the time, and they've held up well. Be warned, I ended up buying a power driver about half way into building these as there are about 1000 2.5" #8 deck screws holding it together. Another tip, I find aligning the inside of the tire with the edge of the blocks gives me max room underneath, otherwise they can get in the way.

[[ EDIT: Now I can see why I used the settings I did! I clearly just followed the article linked above - I used the same 24x16" dimensions, although I do prefer using 2 cross pieces to lock the upper & lower block pairs, and having 2x6s on the top which act as wheel chocks. ]]

cribbing.jpg cribbing_stacked.jpg cribbing_underside.jpg
 

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2001 and 2002 Jettas, 02J 5-speeds
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I'm looking for part 2 of this job. The link does not work.


I have an intermittent knock sound coming from my trans. Trying to determine if this job is within my capabilities. I've heard there is a trick regarding pushing the engine forward to get the transmission out.
I've done two. I tried to push the engine forward enough to get the trans out and failed miserably. I tried the car jack, a bottle jack, and crow bar gig I made. I ended up taking the subframe out on both. The trans popped out and in with little effort. The subframe is held in place with 4 boils. You have to remove the driveshafts, ball joint bolts, and two exhaust hanger bolts. It took about an hour on the first one and about 45 mins on the second. Mark the ball joint bolts with white out and you won't have to do a front end alignment after you get the subframe back in.
 

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I've done two. I tried to push the engine forward enough to get the trans out and failed miserably. I tried the car jack, a bottle jack, and crow bar gig I made. I ended up taking the subframe out on both. The trans popped out and in with little effort. The subframe is held in place with 4 boils. You have to remove the driveshafts, ball joint bolts, and two exhaust hanger bolts. It took about an hour on the first one and about 45 mins on the second. Mark the ball joint bolts with white out and you won't have to do a front end alignment after you get the subframe back in.
You shouldn't have to remove the subframe, and if you do that you should get an alignment afterwards. The issue isn't just the ball joints, but rather the whole subframe can shift a bit left or right. Mind you, if you're pulling it out, good time to swap out the bushings.
Did you try disconnecting the exhaust from the turbo? If I recall correctly there are 3 copper pinch nuts that hold it on (might be worth replacing), and you need to do that to be able to move the engine forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I watched a video last night. It does seem removing the subframe is the way to go if you don't want to fiddle arround. 10 bolts and an alignment afterwards.

I want to try to some of the "jack" methods first, but it seems like its much easier to remove the subframe while the trans is still attached.

Still deciding. I'll have a months worth of weekends to knock this out. The wife is off for the summer and I'll be driving my 81 VW Rabbit Truck while I work on my daily driver.

The cribbing blocks are temping, but lumber is insane right now and I just dropped $350 on an impact and sockets for this job.
 

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I watched a video last night. It does seem removing the subframe is the way to go if you don't want to fiddle arround. 10 bolts and an alignment afterwards.

I want to try to some of the "jack" methods first, but it seems like its much easier to remove the subframe while the trans is still attached.

Still deciding. I'll have a months worth of weekends to knock this out. The wife is off for the summer and I'll be driving my 81 VW Rabbit Truck while I work on my daily driver.

The cribbing blocks are temping, but lumber is insane right now and I just dropped $350 on an impact and sockets for this job.
I just rotate the transmission so differential is pointing at 12 o’clock comes right out & same as installation. No need to remove the subframe or move engine forward
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just rotate the transmission so differential is pointing at 12 o’clock comes right out & same as installation. No need to remove the subframe or move engine forward
That sounds promising! Jackstands provide amply clearance?
 

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That sounds promising! Jackstands provide amply clearance?
Yes did it on the ground & on the lift both ways no problem how many jackstands do you have 2 or 4
I also use an engine support bar if you have? Don’t think it’s needed you can support the engine with your floorjack and a block of wood

Just did 2 clutch jobs last month this way


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