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Discussion Starter #1
I'm hoping this finds someone with similar experience.

300,000 miles. VR6/G60 clutch for about 250k miles.

For the last year or so, clutch to floor just barely disengages clutch- but clutch strong and no slippage. But hard to shift since clutch trying to pull a bit with pedal to floor.

Figured I needed fork, release bearing, bullet stud, so bought them along with Clutch Experts stage II clutch.

Pulled trans, all those components looked good, but replaced them anyways since I had them. Kept G60 flywheel since very good, put in old clutch disk (still very good) since new one didn't fit. New pressure plate, same dimensions as old.

All said, put it together, no change in symptoms.

Replaced both clutch master and slave, and did a LOT of bleeding: power bleeding, vacuum bleeding, reverse power bleeding (pushed brake fluid into slave and through to reservoir).
Even blocked off slave plunger with plate, clutch hard, meaning air all gone. And no leaks anywhere.

Symptoms the same.

Determined the clutch is self-adjusting, so a "worn" clutch is not going to cause this, even though my clutch is not worn.
I just need a bit more slave plunger movement!

Slave plunger can move almost exactly 2 inches. Determined that pressing clutch to floor makes slave plunger move almost exactly 1 inch. Plunger "at rest" is extended 5/8ths inch before it contacts clutch fork. Thus, with clutch to floor, plunger should be extended 1 and 5/8 inches. This is the self-adjusting aspect of the clutch hydraulic system. What I'm not sure about is whether that 1 inch slave movement is the correct spec, though it's measured with a new master, so it should be if the new master/slave are working correctly. But I need a bit more plunger movement to have the needed clutch release, and I'm not getting it.

So this is where I'm stuck. I'd go ahead and buy NEW new master/slave units, but that seems ridiculous. If someone knew how much movement the slave SHOULD have with full movement of clutch pedal, that would be awesome. I've called one dealer so far who could not answer.
 

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First job have you tried bleeding the clutch hydraulics? Keep the master cylinder topped up as the clutch is fed of the top.

This is a new forum layout with loads of bugs which have been reported in the new thread. There is no TDI Wiki at the moment or or original similes. It doesn't show the car spec/location or signature either

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Discussion Starter #4
PeterAFox, nothing is annoying right now except not being able to figure this out, and I'm open to anything. But, no, there is no obstruction.

Keithuk, yes, I've bled the clutch system about, oh, I would say at least a dozen times, different methods, but ALWAYS with the reservoir topped off. EXCEPT one time, when I blew all the fluid in the entire brake/clutch hydraulic system completely out and started all over. With vacuum bleeding, I put a canister into the reservoir that continuously flows brake fluid in to keep it full. With power bleeding, it's always full right up to the brim, and I have to suck a bit out. With reverse power bleeding the slave back up to the master, the reservoir overflows if I don't suck some out. But never is the level below the feed tube for the clutch hydraulics. I've read a lot of posts, and learned plenty, and believe I've tried about every way suggested to bleed. I even put a spacer washer under the bullet stud when tranny was out to bring the fork closer to the slave plunger. But since then I've learned that the clutch is self adjusting so that should not do anything useful, especially if the 1 inch slave movement is the correct amount, since the slave CAN move a total of 2 inches from full compression. This is the one spec nobody has been able to confirm.

Since my first post, I went ahead and ordered ANOTHER master and slave cylinder which just arrived, likely wasted my money, but I think I'm going to remove the entire clutch hydraulic system with the pedal and start bench testing things. It's GOT to be something simple, it worked fine for 14 years and now it's on that edge of not disengaging the clutch with all these new components.

Not expecting any major "lightbulb idea" here, but I guess I'm hoping! I know it's hard for any experienced person to diagnose simply from what I'm saying here, but I really do appreciate the responses. One "weird" thing I discovered is that my old slave disengages the clutch a bit better than the new one, same exact bleeding methods. What the heck is THAT about I ask myself? But I'm bound and determined not to take this to a dealer.

Thank you
 

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Did the new(er) parts help? Manufacturers do make bad parts sometimes. I had a similar problem with my wife's '03 TDI. I drove it a while and bled it one more time before taking big things apart. It worked!

I think that there is a specific bleeding method for the VR's in the Bentley manual, did you use that method?
 
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