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2013 Jetta Sportwagen TDI w/DSG
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I will be changing my DMF on my 2013 TDI JSW w/DSG. It currently has 185K and the rattle is getting progressively worse. I have searched here but havent really found much on it. My questions are:

1. Does anyone have a wiki repair/how-to for the DMF repair?
2. Should I also replace the clutch while I am in there?
3. Are there any uncommon/special tools I will need?
4. Are there any name brands I should steer clear of? (I saw Lutz has had some longevity/quality issues according to some posts on here)
5. What are some good reputable sites to look for parts?
 

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I am in the same boat. did you happen to find somewhere to buy the DMF.
Best thing i found was a couple videos in youtube:1
, 2
.
 

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2013 Jetta Sportwagen TDI w/DSG
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yeah I have found it available on IDparts.com and partsgeek.com. Trying to decided whether to go with the LUK or the Sachs. Thanks for the vids.
I’m honestly wondering how long I can keep driving it as is. I’m not sure how long the car has had the issue because I just bought it. But I have read that some people have driven them for tens of thousands of miles with the rattle and no drivability issues. So I’m just kind of biding my time and doing my research to try to find the best course of action
 

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Well to be honest I have been driving the car like that for about 3 months, short drive to and from work. The problem you could have is if the DMF has critical failure It could take your transmission and engine with it and that point you would be selling your car to the scrap yard. Not trying to scare you into it. I think is better to not leave this to chance and fix it before it get expensive or you get stranded somewhere.
 

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just one more vid this guy removes way more stuff than i would like to. But he also shows more detail of what need to happen.
 

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I have completed this task and its quite straightforward.

I will try and answer tour questions as best I can.
Tooling you will need a small bearing puller to remove the needle bearing from the crankshaft. I will check the sizes but its an amazon type job maybe £15. Just chap the new one in with a rubber hammer / wood then a socket to 2mm below the face. LUK Give fabulous instructions.
You will also need a good set of double hex spline drive sockets for the drive shafts and other vw hard ware.

Parts LUK is very good quality and what VW use generally also so is SACHS which is a ZF brand so all German as new quality. I fitted LUK with a LUK Bearing and new Bolts (These Must be replaced as they are stretch type).
SO to recap the crankshaft needle bearing and Bolts MUST be renewed.
VW recommend replacing the 2 x spring retaining clips on the selector cable but mine were like new so I never done so.
I paid £350 for my DMF / Bolts and Needle bearing. The cheapest i seen was about £330.
I suspect your numbers will be the same (Note pilot bearing included with the flywheel, bolts are not).

DMF VW Part # 03L 105 266 DF LUK # 415 0744 09
Pilot Bearing VW Part # 056 105 313 C LUK # 410 0009 10
Bolts (Set 6) VW Part # N90665001 LUK # 411 0133 10


I would recommend a German on-line company called AUTODOC they are fabulous are interpreting the correct parts and have all the VW -AUDI systems and will always supply the correct bits.

Your DSG gearbox is a different story, if its OK I would leave well alone and just do an oil and filter change shortly after completing the main task. Its a multi plate clutch and not a repair item like a manual clutch.

I did not remove the front sub frame and found there to be plenty of room to get the gearbox out with it in place.
The method i used was jacked and supported the engine on wood then used an engine lift to support the gearbox and remove it downwards.
If you turn the box from about 12 o clock as you look at to about 10-11ish you will see the subframe shape is designed to let it past.
My advise would be to get the car as high as you can and it will give you plenty of room to work.
I used ramps on the back wheels and axle stands onto the front jacking points.
I made up 2 3" M12 guide bolts (Bolts with the hex cut off) and fitted these in the engine. It made the installation dead easy and I was sure I was aligned and did not damage the needle bearing.

One thing to remember is to crack the drive shaft big bolt at the CV joint before you start with the wheels still on. Just a 1/4 turn but this will make life much easier once is in the air.

One piece of advise would be to get some body panel protectors, you will be leaning all over the car and you will be raging if you scratch all the paint work.

If you are doing this on the drive I would allow a weekend to have it completed.

Good luck, any queries just ask.
 
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