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Discussion Starter #1
Enclosed are pictures of my cam. The only lobe where I saw noticeable wear is #1; you can see where the edge bevel is worn to a sharp edge. Risers 2-8 looked flat like #2 in the picture. #1 had some dishing.
The new cam has about 300 miles on it varying the RPMs from 500 to 2800, predominantly in the 2500 rpm area as my commute is mainly highway. I am looking for oil leaks etc., but so far it is looking good.

I don’t understand why only #1 is bad.

I set my timing (Torsion) to 1 degree as I read Jettas seem to prefer 0.5 – 1.0 and when the timing belt stretches, the timing will retard. My initial setting was at 0 degrees and I thought I barely moved the cam sprocket and the torsion value moved 1 degree.

Earlier I asked about the size of the camshaft bolts; they are M8 x 1.25.

This car has 135K miles on it. I used 5W40, 505.01 for the first 110K and have recently been using 5W40 Delvac (the old Mobil Truck and Turbo).

My main symptom was a MAF (P0100) error that only triggered when I decelerated quickly. (I thought this is called a negative backpressure situation.) I looked for all the usual P0100 suspects (vacuum, clogged filters…) and except for a slightly loose intercooler connection near the right headlight there were no problems.

Is it recommended to take off the valve cover to make sure the cam and caps etc. look as expected?
 

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They aren't that bad. You probably could have driven OK for a while but obviously it's best to change it as soon as practical when it is borderline medium wear like that.

If you are sure you did the replacement procedure successfully, I wouldn't check the camshaft later. I wouldn't want to disturb the valve cover. You can but there's not much to see in only 300 miles.
 

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This worries me as I have a PD(06 Golf) with only 55k, but I was hoping to get 250K out of this motor b4 major overhaul.......is this wishful thinking.........using Pentosin 5w40 synthetic, plan oil and filter changes at 10k......any thoughts
 

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Jeff, rather than worry about it, I suggest you have a look at the lobes and see if there is wear. It's WAY cheaper/better to know about it long before failure than to deal with it post-failure. I decided to take a reasonable approach and get informed, rather than get my shirt in a knot and get reactive. Glad that I did too.

In my case there is significant wear, but it seems to have sort-of 'abated' or slowed, allowing me time to figure out what I want to do, if anything. Incorrect oil, speced in written form, in the owner's manual of all places, may have been the culprit in my case.

It is relatively easy to have a look, no special tools, etc. And there is a write-up hereabouts.

I was hoping this engine would last 'forever' too!!
 

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I guess the good thing is that it is an overhead cam engine.....probably not too bad to replace cam.....nice complete kit at IDParts.com......if they sell a kit, usually means they poop out on a reg basis......does anyone know if this is a part problem(the original cam) or an engineering prob?......in other words, will replacement go longer than original?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I asked the same question about the longevity, but I didn’t find a real good answer. See what you think of the cam on KermaTDI.
Another way you can look at it is: Drive it for 100K and replace the timing belt and cam like scheduled maintenance. I thought the hard part about replacing the cam is the details involved in replacing the timing belt. The cam is straight forward – use the advanced technique in the very good write up in “Forums” and you don’t have to remove the fuel pump.
Thanks again to Grizzly and Mr. chittychittybangbang for their advice.
 
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