I have the vehicle torn apart and have replaced the lifters and the guides. I am a little confused about the "v" shape of lobe #1. I looked at the picture and it confused me a bit more. I tried not to move the camshaft but I am sure it moved a bit as i removed the spoket. There is notch on the cam, so if it line the notch up with the spocket and I am able to replace the locking pin is the correct? The cam too does not lay flat in the guides do I use the caps in the reverse order to lock it into position, slowly of course careful not to place pressure on the cam? Thanks in advance for any help!
camshaft replacement progress question
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The camshaft position should be so that the pin goes into the hole on the cylinder head.
The reason the camshaft does not lay flat is because some of the lobes are facing down. The writeup should have a note about how to tighten it down. If this is not clear, please copy/paste what is not clear and I will edit it. The idea is to keep it flat instead of tightening one end to avoid warping and stress. Also, make sure that the cam is not binding after you tighten the caps. Therefore, I suggest checking this before tightening the caps to their final torque.
The reason the camshaft does not lay flat is because some of the lobes are facing down. The writeup should have a note about how to tighten it down. If this is not clear, please copy/paste what is not clear and I will edit it. The idea is to keep it flat instead of tightening one end to avoid warping and stress. Also, make sure that the cam is not binding after you tighten the caps. Therefore, I suggest checking this before tightening the caps to their final torque.
Awesome I got the cam in an buttoned it all back together. I turned the motor by hand twice like the post suggested. Now the car will not start, it turns over fine but will not start. Initially i thought it was a timing issue but found another of your amazing post stating it would throw a code. As i crank the car the oil light comes on but there is the appropriate amount of oil in the motor. The front of the car is still in the air and i can here a hi pitched noise coming from the engine compartment.
If fuel leaked out it ill need priming. Suck fuel through the return line (not with your mouth unless you like the taste of carcinogens).
Okay first let me apologizing for posting in the wrong spot, newbie mistake!
The car cranks but does not seem to be getting fuel. i open the bleeder screw on top of the filter and nothing. I am not sure which line on the top to pull and suck diesel through...It on the battery charger now again any helps is most definately appreciated!!
The car cranks but does not seem to be getting fuel. i open the bleeder screw on top of the filter and nothing. I am not sure which line on the top to pull and suck diesel through...It on the battery charger now again any helps is most definately appreciated!!
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The bleed screw sucks from the bottom so that won't help. Read this article, see the very bottom for the correct line
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/fuel-filter-VW-Jetta-TDI-2005-2006.htm
The service manual shows a bolt-port on the shaft like thing on the tandem pump as the bleed spot but I don't see why you couldn't use the fuel filter spot either.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/fuel-filter-VW-Jetta-TDI-2005-2006.htm
The service manual shows a bolt-port on the shaft like thing on the tandem pump as the bleed spot but I don't see why you couldn't use the fuel filter spot either.
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Check the round connector for injectors on head. IT controls the fuel solenoids, was it touched? Any wires removed or disturbed? If it sounds like it's not getting fuel it probably isn't....so either air stuck in lines, fuel leak somewhere.
To answer an earlier question, when you remove the tandem pump you should have seen a lot of fuel come out. It's because the fuel rail is inside cyl head. When you turn key to ON, you hear the fuel pump in tank run correct? IF not, it's dead and the tandem pump was supplying fuel to engine before. Now that air is in system, if the pump in tank is dead, it won't purge air out of system and you'll crank forever.
RE: high pitched noise, probably the EGR or intake flap motors, these are electric motors that self calibrate each time you start engine. If not them, find the source of the noise. They are on the intake manifold.
To answer an earlier question, when you remove the tandem pump you should have seen a lot of fuel come out. It's because the fuel rail is inside cyl head. When you turn key to ON, you hear the fuel pump in tank run correct? IF not, it's dead and the tandem pump was supplying fuel to engine before. Now that air is in system, if the pump in tank is dead, it won't purge air out of system and you'll crank forever.
RE: high pitched noise, probably the EGR or intake flap motors, these are electric motors that self calibrate each time you start engine. If not them, find the source of the noise. They are on the intake manifold.
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Sooooo.......? How did you get it started? Just kept cranking? Did you hear the lift pump running when you turned the key to on?
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