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Discussion Starter #1
Car: '05 Jetta Wagon TDI with 225,000 miles. I know the cam is ready for replacement. I have removed the outer timing belt gear and have the center bolt loose on the cam. Are there any alternate methods of removing the main "gear" without having to purchase the T10052 (I think that's the number) removal tool?

Also I am planning on using Lucas Buildup Oil for the cam and lifter installation. Has anyone ever had a problem with this product?

All the best,
Chumpy
 

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You could make your own gear puller. Because it's pressed on, I would not want to knock the sprocket off with a hammer. If I were you, use the right tool and spend 10 seconds popping it off instead of a few hours trying to get it off only to damage the pulley.
 

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Vice anvil for hard surface to pound against
slightly loose center bolt
long impact extension up against the center on the back side
2# sledge

3 hands, one to hold the end of the cam vertical, one to hold the hammer, and one to hold the extension in place.

whack.. off it pops. and stops at the head of the loose bolt. no damage, no sharp edges on the extension to damage the back of the hub.

DO NOT hit the sheet metal tone ring that the cam sensor reads. it covers the back side of the hub, but there are holes in it to use.
 

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Great idea! Adding to the FAQ article. I'm not 100% sure what this means though "long impact extension up against the center on the back side" why not just hang the camshaft from the pulley, pulley sitting on a firm surface with a hole in it for the camshaft?
 

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because my vice isnt big enough to do that. you work with what you have..

if you look at the back side of the hub on a PD cam, there are a couple three holes in the tone ring metal plate that show the hub thru them, place the socket end of the 6-8" long extension against the pulley/hub as close to the center as you can, and hit the ratchet end of the extension with the small sledge to pop the hub loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Harmonic balancer puller

Took out my harmonic balancer puller and was able to get it mounted on the cam pulley using the three holes available. Took the center long threaded shaft and cut it down to about 2" of threads remaining. Then I turned a 45 degree angle on the corners to reduce the bearing size that will press on the center cam bolt. Worked like a charm.

All the best,
Chumpy
 

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Just my two cents......
You don't need a second person or special tools for this method. I did my cam replacement a week ago and this is what I did to get the cam gear-head off the bad cam.
With the camshaft out of the engine loosen the center bolt. I did this by threading 2 of my used injector rocker-arm bolts into any two of the three holes used for the timing gear.
Then I slipped the hole in the handle of my breaker bar over one bolt and leveraged it off the other bolt. This is for leverage so that you can loosen the center bolt. It's on there pretty tight.
After bolt is loose back it out a couple turns and then hold the timing gear-head in your hand with camshaft hanging toward the ground. One solid blow to the loosened center-bolt from the top with a 16oz hammer did the trick. Saves a lot of money, not having to buy the tool.

You can also use this bolt through breaker bar method as leverage when you put the gear onto the new camshaft.
 

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All these words are great, but a picture is worth 1000 of them...
 
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While on the car, loosen the crank bolt 3 or 4 threads. Hit the head of the bolt as hard as you can with a large hammer - 48oz works great. It will come loose.

If you are removing the cam and have it out of the engine, have somebody hold the cam gear on from bottom (camshaft pointing towards the ground) while you hit the center bolt with a large hammer (with the bolt loose 3-4 threads). It comes off very easy.
 

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This sounds all really complicated, I think this is easier: When timing belt is still in place, looses the cam pulley bolts and the center one, it is almost impossible to turn the engine this way, so the bolt will come loose... take the cam out and you can use a normal pulley for a axel/steering wheel... (do not forget to put a new seal in before you put it on...) Tighten all the bolts with the timing belt in place, works just fine.
 

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Vice anvil for hard surface to pound against
slightly loose center bolt
long impact extension up against the center on the back side
2# sledge

3 hands, one to hold the end of the cam vertical, one to hold the hammer, and one to hold the extension in place.

whack.. off it pops. and stops at the head of the loose bolt. no damage, no sharp edges on the extension to damage the back of the hub.

DO NOT hit the sheet metal tone ring that the cam sensor reads. it covers the back side of the hub, but there are holes in it to use.
I think I'm following along, but, like ccbb, I'm not exactly sure what the long impact extension is doing; do you have any photos/diagrams?
 

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Doing my cam tomorrow and will most likely be doing "josephap8764"'s method. For anyone interested, I'll take detailed pictures and post them up!
 

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Follow up. Got the cam in and it was effortless. I got the old cam out, loosened the 18mm holding the pulley on about 2 turns. Pointing the cam down toward the ground give the bolt a whack. It came off first hit and I didn't even hit it that hard.

I can't figure out how to upload the file though.. it says it's too large. Sorry guys
 

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I can't figure out how to upload the file though.. it says it's too large. Sorry guys
Upload what file, there is a limit on the size of attachment on forums even pictures can be too big.

On a side note Car: Volkswagen you can remove that as we know how makes the Jetta as it takes up a lot of room.

Unlike Nuje Car: 2001, 2002. What?
 
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