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Am trying to repair the broken oil pump chain on my daughters car and am trying to get all the information available. It seems impossible to find a manual so I am so pleased to find myturbodiesel.com.

Is it recommended to replace the oil pump with a gear driven pump instead of the chain? If so; approximate cost of parts,. The repair shop wanted to replace the engine @$8,000 and replace the turbo @ $3,000. What does anyone think that doing the repairs myself will run me?
 

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Impossible to say without first inspecting for damage. Read the B5 FAQ articles, they explain it all, right now the balance shaft delete is recommended.
 

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Am trying to repair the broken oil pump chain on my daughters car and am trying to get all the information available. It seems impossible to find a manual so I am so pleased to find myturbodiesel.com.

Is it recommended to replace the oil pump with a gear driven pump instead of the chain? If so; approximate cost of parts,. The repair shop wanted to replace the engine @$8,000 and replace the turbo @ $3,000. What does anyone think that doing the repairs myself will run me?
Hello Logan,

The link below is a DVD ROM repair manual for the Passat. This is the one I use. It's not too bad and fairly easy to use. There is also a wealth of knowledge here on myturbodiesel thanks to the TDI fanatics among us :thumbsup

http://www.bimmerzone.com/VW_Service_Manual_DVD/BNT-VB55.html

Well, you and I are in the same boat. I will be pulling my BHW apart this weekend to assess the damages from my oil pressure loss. I recommend the balance shaft delete kit ($289+) which is much cheaper than the gear-driven (GD) BSM upgrade ($1300+) which you might have trouble getting one anyway since there is a supply shortage due to the epidemic breakdowns. Also, the bsm delete is probably more reliable long term even though it is still chain driven because this system uses an oil pump from an older Jetta (ALH) but it rotates at half the crankshaft speed (as opposed to 2x) and has less accessories it has to actuate so there is less chance of excessive tension/wear. The GD BSM while having no chain still uses the gear to run both the oil pump and balance shafts - small hex shafts which get worn out and are the weak point in this design. In fact I suspect what caused my failure was my hex shafts ceasing causing oil pump failure. I can't wait to find out this weekend...

First off, depending on how long you drove it with no oil pressure, you may need a rebuild including crank machined, new oversized bearings, new cam (which it prob needs anyway), lifters and bearings, all new bolts, turbo, possibly piston rings, etc. It all depends on the damage but you can rebuild for much less than $8000 doing it yourself.

Catch up on your leisure reading here:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/oil-pump-failure-passat-tdi.htm
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/audi-a4-tdi-oil-pump-balance-shaft-replacement-repair.htm

You may be able to rebuild your turbo depending on the damage, I saw a repair kit somewhere for under $200. I'll find it again if you're interested.

A new turbo is $890 at kermatdi, doing the work yourself you save $2100 from your shop quote:

http://www.kermatdi.com/servlet/Categories?keyword=turbo&category=Find+by+Make/Model:Volkswagen:Passat:2005

Balance shaft delete kit $289: http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=980

You should replace your motors mounts and the alternator pulley (if it's not already done).

Mounts $240: http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=331
Pulley $80: http://shopping.boraparts.com/index.php?cPath=21_30_155_156

Camshaft $599: http://coltcams.com/ (call to place order)
Camshaft installation parts $417: http://www.metalmanparts.com/category.sc?categoryId=63
Timing belt kit $220: http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=206&categoryId=63

If you do pull your engine out then you might also want to take the opportunity to have your torque converter rebuilt (around $300) since it's easily accessible. It's another one of those known failures in the B5 Passat.

So I'd say be prepared to spend a minimum of $2000 ($3000 with new turbo) doing it all yourself and probably not more than $5000 with an engine rebuild if necessary. That's the ball-park depending on the damage and not including tools. Assuming you have the commons tools (i.e. triple square/12 point sockets, hex sockets, torque wrenches, etc) VW specialty tools (required for timing belt & cam) would be around $300 to buy or you can rent them here if available.

How long was it running with no oil pressure?
 

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why is it more people say you have to do a gear drive instead of going with a balance shaft delete? even if you replace the chain every couple years?
 

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why is it more people say you have to do a gear drive instead of going with a balance shaft delete? even if you replace the chain every couple years?
I think the reason is because they think the tensioner, chain and sprocket (which drives the oil pump) system itself is unreliable and prone to failing, which in our setup it truly is. The BHW's BSM sprocket rotates faster than the crank, since it is smaller, plus it has to turn the oil pump AND balance shaft assembly which puts alot of tension on the chain. The gear driven balance shaft module (BSM) guarantees that oil pump failure won't be because of the sprocket wearing or chain/tensioner breaking. However, with the gear-driven BSM there is still the problem of the hex shafts in the BSM getting worn and possibly ceasing which in my opinion would cause way more damage in the entire system since you've got interdependent gears/parts that would cease or have to shatter (as they are designed to do) if one component in the interdependent system fails - More speculation on my part since I don't have an actual case to draw from.

The BSM delete means using an oil pump which rotates slower than crank speed and it is a dedicated system, meaning the chain running off the crank only has to rotate the oil pump. So the net result is less tension and less wear from the tensioner. Added benefits (besides saving $$) of the delete are a little more power (and possibly economy) due to less rotational mass. One small draw back is a little more vibration due to the elimination of the BSM which is supposed to eliminate that but it doesn't really make a huge difference on that anyway. Some people have posted a very minor increase in vibration after the delete which makes you wonder what the point of that design is. The BSM seems to be more of a hindrance than a benefit.

Chains themselves aren't really the problem. Alot of domestic cars use timing chains instead of belts to rotate the camshaft and they don't need replacing very often if at all. Definitely alot less often that our timing belts. Mind you they don't have tensioners - which cause chain wear - in the timing chain set up, it's going to be alot less if the chain has less tension and mass it has to rotate. So what matters most is the whole design/setup as detailed above. I would rather take my chances with the delete in the long run rather than the gear driven upgrade even if the price was the same.
 

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I am currently in the process of replacing the oil pump assy in my passat tdi and need info to reassemble the new gears properly
 

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Newbie and new member here,
In the middle of replacing the torque converter on this used 2005.5 passat tdi wagon that has 170,000 + miles, i figured to replace this oil pump chain figuring it hadn't been. Along with a few other items needing replacing, I am replacing the leaky motor mounts and the front engine snub or motor stop mount (whats the correct term for that part anyway?). It was one of those foam ones falling apart.
So the question I have is on this delete for the oil pump chain, which seems to be preferred and with the excessive vibrations, would or could there be potential excessive vibrations causing other issues with stiffer motor mounts and rubber snub mount installed instead of the softer OEM mounts?
 

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We did the delete on two Passats, and the gear driven balance shaft on two others (they both had the chains let go and needed short blocks). Long story short there are greater vibrations with the delete, but it's not that bad. What I usually tell customers is that if they are totally anal about vibrations then they should probably go geared. If they don't mind a little bit of vibrations then save the grand and go for the delete kit. Always replace motor mounts (and preferably transmission mounts) when you do a delete kit. Should probably do it every time you do a balance shaft too - they go out eventually and you're already in there.

Cheers,
-BB
 

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Newbie and new member here,
In the middle of replacing the torque converter on this used 2005.5 passat tdi wagon that has 170,000 + miles, i figured to replace this oil pump chain figuring it hadn't been. Along with a few other items needing replacing, I am replacing the leaky motor mounts and the front engine snub or motor stop mount (whats the correct term for that part anyway?). It was one of those foam ones falling apart.
So the question I have is on this delete for the oil pump chain, which seems to be preferred and with the excessive vibrations, would or could there be potential excessive vibrations causing other issues with stiffer motor mounts and rubber snub mount installed instead of the softer OEM mounts?
I did the BSM delete as well as replaced all the mounts (motor and trans with OE) and I found that there were very minimal vibrations afterwards. In fact, looking under the hood at idle the engine does seem to shake more but when driving you really don't notice excessive vibrations until you get to higher speeds (80 kms +) where with additional winds you do notice more vibrations than prior to the delete. I found that driving on the highway on a windy day, the additional vibrations from the delete were noticeable whereas I don't recall that much vibration prior to the delete. I do think the OEM engine mounts absorb a lot of the normal engine vibrations which is why the vibs aren't noticeable until driving at higher speeds with additional winds.

I would say the additional vibrations from stiffer motor mounts could cause other issues throughout the vehicle like nuts/bolts backing out if they're not torqued properly. You probably want to have the vibe absorption of OEM mounts rather than not. I really can't see any benefit of stiffer motor mounts after doing the delete. You'd more than likely eventually have more problems with the stiffer ones.
 
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