[TDIloser]

I have a 2005.5 TDI Jetta. I took it the shop to have a EGR cooler tube installed. While at the shop they broke the stop screw off the turbo housing, with a pry bar. I took the car there running fine, and they gave it back barely moving. Only had a minor exhaust leak, that has turned into quite an ordeal. I sent the turbo off to be rebuilt, and thats where I learned the housing casting was broken. He had a housing and gave it to me and rebuilt the turbo, but didn't know where to set the stop screw adjustment, as the one I sent wasn't there to copy the same setting, we are at a loss as to how to properly adjust. The turbo currently is building too much exhaust pressure, and won't build any boost, due to the vanes being pulled back to far and jamming. Its very hard to make any adjustments while on the car. Does anyone have any ideas, first how to adjust to proper setting, and two to know if its not overboosting when we finish. I don't want to do further damage, like a turbo flying apart, and sending metal through my whole engine. The only other alternative I see is to buy a new turbo, factory set, and install that. I would be losing about 500.00 plus my time for install of the rebuilt turbo. Hence why I call myself the tdiloser. I'm feeling pretty well like the loser, in this fiasco!!! Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!

 

[chittychittybangbang]

According to the manual, use a vacuum pump to test the actuator. It must not exceed 750 mbar.

The linkage should start moving at around 300 mbar and be at the end at about 700 mbar. The actuator lift should be 10mm.

I have added this to the ALH engine vacuum actuator test article. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/VNT-wastegate-adjust.htm Although it's for another engine, you can use the same basic procedure. The biggest difference is that your engine uses a smart sensor which can see the position.