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Discussion Starter #1
Is there any way to get the engine mount which bolts to the block back on once the tensioner and idler are installed on a BEW? Re-reading the instructions here, it mentions removing the mount "If you can get it out later, good, otherwise just work around it.", but then doesn't mention it again during the belt install section. As a result, I have the whole thing together minus the mount. If you're supposed to just leave it hanging there while installing the belt, etc., I sure wish this had been mentioned... Now it appears I need tear it all down again. :-(
 

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I will make this step more clear. Unfortunately, if the belt has been installed you have to remove it so you can get the mount back on. This note was added to the ALH engine writeup but now that you have brought it up, it will be added to the BEW engine timing belt article as well.
 

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Removing the belt isn't that bad since you're already in there. Look at the bright side, at least you have the chance to double check everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You're right, it wasn't bad, as I'd had the belt off twice already fiddling with the tensioner. Jamming something in the between the crank pulley and the outer housing helps to keep the belt in place I found. The belt + tensioner part I found much easier than on IDI engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will make this step more clear. Unfortunately, if the belt has been installed you have to remove it so you can get the mount back on. This note was added to the ALH engine writeup but now that you have brought it up, it will be added to the BEW engine timing belt article as well.
Thanks, it's all done now, nice to hear it running again. :D I did hear a brief rattle a few seconds after startup that quickly went away. I'll check the tensioner again I think. I guess this could be lifters as it's sat for 2-3 weeks; I'm not familiar enough with this engine to know all the sounds it makes...

One other note about the write-up - my kit didn't include the two smallest mount bolts for the steel strap going from mount to body. As these are also torque + turn bolts, I wondered about this. I found the bolt into the mount was in danger of pulling threads during the 1/4 turn, so I backed off & used loctite. I wonder if this should merit a warning?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will add a note, thank you for your warning. FYI, the 2 alignment brace bolts are 18 ft-lb, where do you see the 1/4 turn spec?
The spec sheet which came with my Conti TB kit shows 15ft-lb plus 1/4 turn. 18ft-lb is shown in my Bentley and does sound more reasonable. I also notice the Bentley only shows the mount to body bolts as 'must replace', the larger M12 mount to engine bracket bolts are 74 ft-lb, no turns.
 

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All the big vertical MM bolts are must replace. The 2 smaller ones won't make the engine fall down or shake if they aren't replaced. I've never seen one broken though.
 

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the engine mount bracket must be replaced after the 3rd stretch/bolt replacement (usaually the 3rd TB) and helicoils are not long enough to work correctly. The motor mount bolts (18mm) and all 5 motor bracket bolts (16mm) are stretch to yield one time use bolts. BEW BRM and BHW PD motor car need to have thier timing checked (crank to cam) via VCDS after a TB change to retarded and you have slow/hard starting in the cold.and to advanced your MPGs will be lower. I usually set the timing slightly advanced (0.5 to 1.5 degrees) as the timing belt wears it will retard the timing. It is very important to loosen the 3 cam adjustment bolts when setting the belt tensioner so the both sides of the belt is tensioned evenly. The 18mm mount to body bolts torque to 30ftlb plus a 1/4 turn the 16mm mount to bracket goto 44ftlbs plus 1/4 and the 3 16mm bracket to motor bolts goto 33ftlb.
 
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