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oil pump failure 2.0lt diesel o5 audi
well vincent, good and bad news,the later engine with the "spur gear" also has a problem with premature failure with the same end result,ie. loss of oil pressure. Main dealers no longer seem to be able to supply parts to repair the older chain drive? and will try sell you an upgrade to the later spur gear which involves changing balancer shaft assembly (1300 euro for parts, ouch!), but I have seen some aftermarket chain kits to repair existing chaindrive (I think the kit may even have oem parts?)this was about 300 euro.
If your turbo has failed and possibly tandem pump (brake pedal goes hard due to lack of vacuum)
then your engine must have been driven without oil pressure for some time, so before you spend several thousand euro on turbo/oil pump gears and labour? bear in mind that the rest of engine may have been damaged due to oil starvation, (ie.crankshaft/bearings and cylinder head/camshafts).
I don't know if you were planning to do this job yourself and what mechanical experience you have, but its not the simplist of jobs, theres alot of stripping of parts to gain the necessary access and specialist tools required , you will need to degas aircon, remove complete front nose section of car (including lights,radiator front panel etc) then timing marks on cambelt need to aligned prior to removal.then undo engine mounts and lift engine as high as it will go, then you will need to lower front subframe (mark its position with tipex or paint as it has a fair bit of movement and you will end up with a car with steering pull , leave rear bolts loose in place to support frame) only then will you have enough clearance to remove sump and front oil seal housing. then you will need to remove old gear from crankshaft ,they recommend using special pullers, but I find it easier to cut gear with one of those really thin cutting discs on a 4" angle grinder (cover everything to prevent swarf getting everywhere and wash down afterwards with brake,carb cleaner. the new gear has to be heated before fitting as it is an interferrance fit, so make sure its hot enough as it will cool rapidly when put in contact with crankshaft .
The balancer shafts need to be timed to crankshaft with special tool (else you get nasty vibration in engine)
Now you can see if you remember how it all goes back together, you might as well change the timing belt and rollers while you're in there, still fancy doing the job ? if not at least you know why the labour cost will be so high. Ha!!!
If you do get someone else to do job make sure they know whats involved, I've seen quite a few cars repaired by garages well out of their depth, which went "BANG!"
Hope this helps and has'nt depressed you too much.
well vincent, good and bad news,the later engine with the "spur gear" also has a problem with premature failure with the same end result,ie. loss of oil pressure. Main dealers no longer seem to be able to supply parts to repair the older chain drive? and will try sell you an upgrade to the later spur gear which involves changing balancer shaft assembly (1300 euro for parts, ouch!), but I have seen some aftermarket chain kits to repair existing chaindrive (I think the kit may even have oem parts?)this was about 300 euro.
If your turbo has failed and possibly tandem pump (brake pedal goes hard due to lack of vacuum)
then your engine must have been driven without oil pressure for some time, so before you spend several thousand euro on turbo/oil pump gears and labour? bear in mind that the rest of engine may have been damaged due to oil starvation, (ie.crankshaft/bearings and cylinder head/camshafts).
I don't know if you were planning to do this job yourself and what mechanical experience you have, but its not the simplist of jobs, theres alot of stripping of parts to gain the necessary access and specialist tools required , you will need to degas aircon, remove complete front nose section of car (including lights,radiator front panel etc) then timing marks on cambelt need to aligned prior to removal.then undo engine mounts and lift engine as high as it will go, then you will need to lower front subframe (mark its position with tipex or paint as it has a fair bit of movement and you will end up with a car with steering pull , leave rear bolts loose in place to support frame) only then will you have enough clearance to remove sump and front oil seal housing. then you will need to remove old gear from crankshaft ,they recommend using special pullers, but I find it easier to cut gear with one of those really thin cutting discs on a 4" angle grinder (cover everything to prevent swarf getting everywhere and wash down afterwards with brake,carb cleaner. the new gear has to be heated before fitting as it is an interferrance fit, so make sure its hot enough as it will cool rapidly when put in contact with crankshaft .
The balancer shafts need to be timed to crankshaft with special tool (else you get nasty vibration in engine)
Now you can see if you remember how it all goes back together, you might as well change the timing belt and rollers while you're in there, still fancy doing the job ? if not at least you know why the labour cost will be so high. Ha!!!
If you do get someone else to do job make sure they know whats involved, I've seen quite a few cars repaired by garages well out of their depth, which went "BANG!"
Hope this helps and has'nt depressed you too much.
