[67 bird]

What is a good size of injector nozzles to use on a 99MK4 ALH with a Malone 1.5 tune? Looking for a little more power and torque. Nothing crazy, trying to keep fuel mileage as good as possible. Engine is stock, still has the Vnt15 turbo, does have 2 1/2 inch straight pipe out the back.

 

[Mr.loops]

Kerma TDI should be able to answer your nozzle question

 

[udraft]

Bosio Bosio PowerPlus 520 Set of 4 Nozzles

PP520, Bosio, Powerplus, nozzles, injectors, fuel system, performance, Genuine Bosio, Hot Swap, PP520, PP764, DLC-1019, VW TDI injectors, VW TDI nozzles, VW TDI performance

www.kermatdi.com

 

[UhOh]

What is your objective?

If it's FE then stock nozzles with professional balance/setting would be optimal.

IF you're wanting a little more bump in power (for say, passing) then a next size up from stock. No idea what your transmission is: manual trans cars have larger stock nozzles, but smaller injection pump size (10mm vs 11mm for auto). DLC520s are fantastic for slight power bump and controllable FE: I've had them in several of my cars- but with Malone stage 2 tuning (have to have upgraded clutch for anything above 1.5). I say "controllable" because it really does come down on the foot on the pedal as to what provides the best FE. I drive primarily highway/freeway and drive spirited as I care, and have averaged 51.0 mpg over the course of some 75k miles on my own car (wife's cars have varied a bit and her driving is also a bit different; her FE has been lower [yet she certainly doesn't hammer on the Go pedal like I do]).

 

[67 bird]

Thanks for the info. I ordered some 205 nozzles. Looking for a little more power in fourth and fifth gears. My 4 x 4 Toyota, does great with The Malone 1.5 tune and stock nozzles, in gears one through three, but fourth and fifth are lacking, when entering the freeway. Unless I hold it to the floor for maximum boost, then it fluctuates. I am running 245/75R 16 inch tires. Considerably larger diameter than the Jetta head. Seems to be getting around 34 miles per gallon, with stock nozzles. The donor Jetta had a manual training. I am turning approximately, 2800 RPM, at 70 mph.

 

[UhOh]

That all is important information to know! This is a custom application. Really need to have some tools, such as VCDS, to understand what's going on. You might have a turbo issue, a bit of a lag. I've experienced a couple cars now that have had stocky vanes; the first took me nearly 3 years to exercise to health (wife's car- I could only get my hands on it sparingly) and the second (wife's current car- 2003) I'm just starting to work on (same issue- basically kind of hits a flat spot around 3,300rpm, but if you keep your foot into it it'll make it past and pick up fine; I've cleaned the intake manifold and the ports in the head, so that's not in play).

 

[67 bird]

It will take off really fast in first second and third. Builds plenty of boost. In fourth if I hold it to the floor it pulls good once it hits 20 pounds boost, tops out at 22 pounds, then drops down. I think the surging is the computer cutting it back so it doesn’t blow up. I do have access to a VCDS. But not sure what to look at, or where things should be running. Had the intake off when motor was installed, no blockage. Adjusted the rod on the vacuum pot,On the turbo. Used a vacuum pump, and set clearance between stop and arm,With a feeler gauge, at a specific vacuum.per a post I had read. Don’t remember the exact procedure at the moment. No anti-shutter valve, no EGR. Did install new timing belt kit with water pump. Used cam tool, crank tool, And pin in injector pump. Don’t remember what injection pump timing is at, set it with a snap scanner. That is about the only procedure the snap on scanner will do to a Volkswagen, at least mine.

 

[UhOh]

"In fourth if I hold it to the floor it pulls good once it hits 20 pounds boost"

Are you suspecting that it struggles to build boost?

Again, sticking vanes can have this affect.

A bad/marginal MAF can also cut performance: a good MAF will allow you to hit redline (in neutral).

Timing can have a slight affect, but, really, if you're within the "window" the computer pretty much takes care of things.

A 1.5 tune, IMO, is a total compromise tune, really only for those who aren't willing to shell out for a clutch. As it's a compromise you're pretty much not going to get real performance. I bought two tunes, the 1.5 and the 2 (along with a Flashzilla) when I first did tunes for my cars. I installed 1.5 and didn't really feel that it made much difference: biggest difference was just with the DLC520 nozzles and refreshed injectors. For a paltry sum for the additional tune I decided it was like a movie ticket and I was just going to have a nice "night out" and then revert back to the 1.5 tune. None of my cars ever saw a 1.5 again. My wallet got skinnier (performance clutches!).

If you're going to be messing around with these things then it's pretty imperative that you open up your wallet and purchase VCDS. Attempting to make changes without having a good baseline (data) is like throwing darts in the dark.

 

[67 bird]

What data should I be looking at?and what numbers are good?it builds boost good. Installed the .205 nozzles, runs better in all gears. I have to crank it over a little longer than I think I should,Before it starts.( have always had to crank on it a little before it starts)Runs good, drivability wise I think the only issue I have now, is the oversize tires on the truck. And the gearing in the Toyota transmission is different from the Jetta tranny. I do have access to a VCDS, i’m not very educated in using the tool.

 

[UhOh]

On Malone's site they have a document (you'll have to fish for it) on what groups to capture.

If you have a custom vehicle then you are going to have to put more money and or time in to it.