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Discussion Starter #1
I just completed a longblock swap and now the car will not start. I have 1998 jetta (205,000 MILES) it had an AHU, (spun a bearing), replaced with a 1Z longblock (told they were the same and the swap should work). Timing mark set TDC, shut off solenoid has power and clicks, fuel to injectors. it does have .205's with a chip. Turbo had wear, installed new K04 turbo. While engine was out replaced clutch with F1 stage 3 clutch kit. I was wondering if the flywheel and the pulleys are the same? Could this cause the timing to be off? Thanks for any help!
 

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It's possible that you still don't have fuel.

Crack open the fuel hardline at the fuel injectors and have a helper crank the engine. Wrap a rag around it too. The rag should be wet with fuel.

The AHU and 1Z block should interchange. Other possibilities: low battery isn't cranking fast enough - the ECU won't give fuel unless the engine is cranking fast enough. Since the 1z/Ahu use the same timing belt I don't think there is a difference.
 

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I do have fuel spraying out at the injectors when cranking. When cranking white smoke from exhaust, not black like it is burning fuel. I do have a battery charger on the battery as i have pulled it down.
 

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I looked it up and the part numbers for the crank pulley and flywheel for the 1z and AHU are the same. It's possible the TDC mark is off if you are using an aftermarket flywheel.

Were the injectors sitting dry out of the car for a a week or longer? Sometimes the diesel fuel can gum up and cause the needles to stick.

Is the glow plug light on? If not then relay 109 is bad.

When you did the timing belt did it turn over by hand fine? It's possible something was wrong on the TDC marks.

It's also possible that you forgot to connect a wire.
 

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If you put on a new headgasket, how many punch holes did it have? The block has to use a certain number of punch holes, 1-4, on the headgasket or else compression will be off. You measure how far the pistons stick out and that tells you how many punch holes should be on the headgasket. I forget how many holes = thickness but the more or less holes, the thicker the gasket. You should be able to get away with just using the same number of holes that were on the old gasket. If you had a 3 hole gasket before you could use a new 3 hole gasket. Don't reuse the old gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
flywheel is from the AHU. I cleaned the injectors before installing. glow plug light is on when the key is turned. i set the timing when the engine was out of the car, it should be the correct timing mark? Could you tell which wires have to be hooked up to crank the car? i know IP, turbo, MAP,temp & oil sensors, plugs on the transmission are all hooked up.

bought a longblock, description;
1996/97 Rebuilt VW Diesel TDI Engine 1.9L (Long Block). This is a "1Z" TDI Long Block Completely Rebuilt with all New Main, Rod, Intermediate shaft Bearings, German Goetze Rings, Valve job, Completely resealed with all New Head Gasket, New Head Bolts and seals, crank seals, New upgraded crankshaft hub, New Crank Hub Bolt, and comes with all installation gaskets. Standard crankshaft (not turned), Standard Pistons and Cylinders are like new honed and re-ringed.

additional info on the longblock:
this engine was built out of a low mileage core with 89,000 miles... Originally, the engine was pulled for low compression on #3 but the problem turned out to be a bad lifter holding the valve open. The engine was beautiful inside other wise - at any rate new German bearings, German goetze rings and new lifters.
 

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Are you saying the car won't crank? Is it turning over when you turn the key?

I assumed that because the IP is spitting fuel, it was cranking. I saw someone giving advice on another forum about the injection pump pin location, this is not a common problem on this engine, it's mostly for the ALH engines.

IP connections must be in. There is a ground spot near the driver's side head where all the electrical connections are. Make sure the wires are there. To crank the engine and have it start, the MAF could be bad. Since people have managed to run these engines with no coolant or oil (causing damage) I assume that the temp and oil sensors don't have to be plugged in for the engine to run.

Even if you had the wrong headgasket, I think that it should still start. It may run poorly but I am not sure this would cause a no-start. However, if you bought the engine already assembled it's possible that the headgasket was wrong and compresssion will be off.

I am not aware of what an upgraded crankshaft hub is. Older engines had the crankshaft hub slip but I haven't heard of this on the 1Z/AHU.
 

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The upgraded crank gear/hub supposedly cures the keyway wear issue, although I suspect that key/keyway wear is more often caused by re-use of the old crank bolt if it was removed or insufficient torque of same.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Timing the IP pump worked! The car is running. A BIG THANK-YOU TO ALL FOR THE HELP!!! I had to rotate it all the wat toward the engine. I sure did not want to have to trailer it to a dealer. Thanks again!
 

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Put the engine back at TDC and double check the injection pump pin. If it's all the way rotated then you just want to double check that you're not a tooth off on the timing belt. It's possible for the crank-camshaft timing to be correct and the injection pump timing to be off. If it's within the normal range on the timing chart and the pin fits at TDC then it's correct. Look through this article for some pics:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a3b4/TDI_timingbelt_part2_install.htm
 

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:thumbsup

2nd, double check the position of the timing belt at TDC just to be sure. If it's not too much work, you could also take it off, reset the position of the IP to about middle, and see if it works better that way. Maybe the IP was adjusted all the way to one end beforehand and it ended up 1 tooth off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You guys were right it was a tooth off, re-set timing. The car is running great!!
Thanks again for all of the help!!!
 
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