This is not an OEM HID retrofit but does retrofit high quality projector lenses into the stock halogen housing. The pics are rehosted with permission from their taker, sukanas so that they can be added to the FAQ.
IMHO, very good work and the beam pattern is excellent. However, he admits that getting the OEM xenon at buying time is a better idea. You also get cornering lights and self leveling lights with the OEM headlights and adding the headlights, sensors, and wiring is quite expensive.
The OP's message " I'm using FX-R BiXenon Projectors with morimoto 5000k D2S Bulbs and ddm 35W ballast....sealing:
The rubber butyl is DEFINITELY more than sticky enough to seal it back together tightly. And on top of that, I covered the sealing with aluminum tape. The awesome thing about this whole setup is that even though the headlight will get SUPER hot (obviously from sitting in the engine bay), the sticky part of the aluminum tape does NOT melt onto the plastic. So when i had to remove the tape, it came of CLEANLY (this was after a week of the 100 degree weather). Also, the rubber butyl came off with the tape too making the job a LOT easier and way more convenient. Oh and the aluminum tape was for added sealant. I am seriously 115% confident that everything is sealed off with this aluminum tape. This stuff is amazing, I just couldn't believe I didn't find out about this stuff earlier
Oh I wanted to add that there are 4 brackets on the headlights which mount to the bumper/car. They mount like lego pieces which keep the headlights snugged and fit all the time...The thing that covered the projectors (aka shroud) did come as part of a kit. It actually doesn't sit in quite as deep as I wanted it to. For the reflector housings and trim (the stuff thats painted black/red) is ALL part of the headlight itself. It can easily be taken off and painted to however youd like...the projector and all equip probably costed me around 400 but I had to buy basic tools too so it probably summed up to 600 bucks. time spent was probably at least 48 hours. Lot of it was from being anal about the paint job. Aligning the projectors horizontally also took a lot of time too. "
Hello. I am trying to get similar setup done on 2010 VW Golf and would like to know if there are no error messages on the instrument cluster, since the 35W hid ballasts were used? Have there been any changes to the program in the BCM? Please respond. Thank You.
Hello. I am trying to get similar setup done on 2010 VW Golf and would like to know if there are no error messages on the instrument cluster, since the 35W hid ballasts were used? Have there been any changes to the program in the BCM? Please respond. Thank You.
In theory, as long as the ballasts are CANBUS compliant, the BCM should have no issue with them. My concern involves the ballast's peak current draw during initial startup. The wattage will peak well over the 35w of the rating....and it appears that the BCM has very little circuit protection to ensure it's own survival...no fuses, no internal intelligent fusing, nothing. IMHO, this is why the ballast should be isolated using a relay. This poses a couple of problems though:
1) the relay will not be CANBUS compliant and will turn the warning light back on...and the MFI will indicate a bulb out per side. I have purchased a set of CANBUS error eliminators off of Ebay and will give them a try to see if they'll not only turn out the warning light, but turn out the warning light while properly powering and grounding the relay.
2) I'm not sure about the low beam circuit, but I do know that on the high beam circuit, the voltage at the bulbs drops to 8.15v when the engine is running. Hella relays engage at 8.5v, Bosch relay engage at 8V. hopefully the .15V above the 8V is enough to stop the Bosch relays from buzzing. The Hellas simply will not work. Otherwise, I'll have to fab up a circuit with a transistor that will work with the 12V (key on, engine off) to 8.15V I have available as a signal voltage
If there's a setting in the BCM that raises that voltage to 12v, I'd love to hear about it (I do have a VCDS cable), as I'm in the middle of replacing the horrible high beam bulbs with HID....and I have just a couple of hurdles left in solving the riddle. I know they are technically illegal, but I'm more concerned with hitting wildlife I can't see on our pitch black and virtually abandoned roads than I am with arguing the legality of these lights. On top of that, with having the HID's on the high beam only, I can simply dim the lights and carry on without effecting any other motorist. If only PIAA or Sylvania made an H15 bulb....I wouldn't even go down this road...
Hello. I am trying to get similar setup done on 2010 VW Golf and would like to know if there are no error messages on the instrument cluster, since the 35W hid ballasts were used? Have there been any changes to the program in the BCM? Please respond. Thank You.
Hello. Thanks for the answers. I have fitted the 35w 6000k hid kit with euro projector headlights and there were no errors but once the low beam lights are on, they flicker slightly. I have used the xentec slim brand (one which has the igniter not built in one unit). I also tried the canbus ballast ( igniter built in) the light came on and shut off showing bulb out on the mfd. I also tried the old fashioned xentec ballast (igniter built in) and the result was same as canbus ballast. I will try the phillips ballast tomorrow and see whats different.
Which brand ballast did sukanas use, that caused no errors?
Thanks.
In theory, as long as the ballasts are CANBUS compliant, the BCM should have no issue with them. My concern involves the ballast's peak current draw during initial startup. The wattage will peak well over the 35w of the rating....and it appears that the BCM has very little circuit protection to ensure it's own survival...no fuses, no internal intelligent fusing, nothing. IMHO, this is why the ballast should be isolated using a relay. This poses a couple of problems though:
1) the relay will not be CANBUS compliant and will turn the warning light back on...and the MFI will indicate a bulb out per side. I have purchased a set of CANBUS error eliminators off of Ebay and will give them a try to see if they'll not only turn out the warning light, but turn out the warning light while properly powering and grounding the relay.
2) I'm not sure about the low beam circuit, but I do know that on the high beam circuit, the voltage at the bulbs drops to 8.15v when the engine is running. Hella relays engage at 8.5v, Bosch relay engage at 8V. hopefully the .15V above the 8V is enough to stop the Bosch relays from buzzing. The Hellas simply will not work. Otherwise, I'll have to fab up a circuit with a transistor that will work with the 12V (key on, engine off) to 8.15V I have available as a signal voltage
If there's a setting in the BCM that raises that voltage to 12v, I'd love to hear about it (I do have a VCDS cable), as I'm in the middle of replacing the horrible high beam bulbs with HID....and I have just a couple of hurdles left in solving the riddle. I know they are technically illegal, but I'm more concerned with hitting wildlife I can't see on our pitch black and virtually abandoned roads than I am with arguing the legality of these lights. On top of that, with having the HID's on the high beam only, I can simply dim the lights and carry on without effecting any other motorist. If only PIAA or Sylvania made an H15 bulb....I wouldn't even go down this road...
I installed a 6k 35w ddm kit in my golf yesterday and i ran into two problems : 1) when i turn on my low beam , the hids work fine but one of the foglights stay on. 2) when i turn on the highbeam, my hids flicker ? can anyone help me with this? any suggestions?
Flickering HID is normally bad ground or weak power cable. I don't know how you wired them but the most reliable way to wire HID kits is directly to the battery with a relay harness instead of using the stock wire harness.
Flickering HID is normally bad ground or weak power cable. I don't know how you wired them but the most reliable way to wire HID kits is directly to the battery with a relay harness instead of using the stock wire harness.
That is true, but the relay harness does not emulate the impedance of the bulb originally in the circuit, so the MFD shows a bulb out. That's why it's necessary to trick the circuit. I'm going to try another set of CANBUS error eliminators to run my relays...to turn on the ballasts.
I also suspect that the flickering could be pulse width modulation...I have a feeling that Volkswagen pulse width modulates the bulb circuits (I know that the high beam circuit drops to 8.14V with the engine running and the high beams on...but my meter is not fast enough to read a square wave signal if it is PWM.... I'll have to bring my other DVOM home from work and see what comes out of that circuit)
Hello. The administrator, tdi fanatic is right. One of the reasons we install the hid kit is the low power consumption, 35w depending on the kit. The problem with the add-on hid lighting system to a mk6 vehicle that originally came with halogen lighting is the fact, there has to be a relay harness used, hooked up directly to the power source (battery), which is not a big deal. Signal for the relay comes from the h7 bulb connector. The problem is, there need to be 50w resistor used in each socket, where the oem halogen bulbs were plugged in and they really get hot so mut be situated away from plastic surfaces. You need one on the right low beam plug and one on the left low beam plug. That is the way i have set it up in the 2010 vw golf tdi with e-coded projector headlamps. No error messages and the lights work excellent. I do not really like that there is actual current draw of 2x35w+2x50w, which is about 20w per side more than with the halogen bulb. Still worth it, since the brightness is way better with the hid setup.
In such vehicle i have had an idea of trying to use a 20w or 15w inline resistor with a 35w hid ballast to see if the bcm would see it as a problem. In theory it should work, but at the start up the kit draws more than 35w and that may cause a problem.
I'm from nj also you may text me if you wish at 973 851 1555 for other questions.
If anyone has another answer to have the system work as oem perhaps using vag-com,
please enlighten me. Thank you.
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