[chittychittybangbang]

The VW service manual suggests using a pressure bleeder for the brakes but since I didn't want to spend the money on one, I don't use this method.

Came across a few pages that showed how to make your own for $20. Since my vacuum pump is on the way out, I will try this soon. In the mean time, here is the how to on how to make your own.
---link dead---

 

[Guest]

That's an great idea! Lol, I don't think I will use my old sprayer though. You never know how pesticide residue and brake fluid will react.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Yeah, it makes me feel better when you know you won't use the tool all the time. A power bleeder can also be purchased for only $50+shipping but I like to make stuff myself too.

 

[freerider]

Good idea but $50 isn't a lot of money to spend on a tool. A wrench set can be $$$. Still, $20 ain't bad either!

 

[chittychittybangbang]

I will try to take some original pics too but the exisiting ones do the job. Plus it's too cold.

 

[Vent5]

Another reason to always use a new sprayer is because you don't know what's inside the sprayer hose and wand. Whatever dirt or chemicals could damage the brake system seals.

 

[darren]

What is the benefit of using the pressure bleeder instead of a mity-vac?

 

[fstjetta]

What is the benefit of using the pressure bleeder instead of a mity-vac?

Because that's what the service manual says

 

[chittychittybangbang]

I think pressure bleeding can be slightly easier.

With using a mity-vac, you have to make sure there is a good seal between the nipple and the hose.

With pressure bleeding there's less worry about sucking in air.

I know the service manual says pressure bleed but I think that both methods, including the ol' press the brake pedal and hold are acceptable.

 

[najel]

It seems that page has disappeared. Whenever I try to open it, it just takes me to the forum main page.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

sorry, I removed the page since I purged all non-copyrighted material from the site. It used some pictures from another location.

 

[Scottydog]

Speedbleeders are pretty easy. Just crack the valve 1/2 turn, pump the brake pedal until the fluid clears, close the valve and move on to the next caliper. Never had much luck with miti-vac, always seemed to suck air into the system. The Motive pressure bleeders work well if you have the right adapter.

And then there is the beer method. Open a caliper valve and let it drip while you go have a beer. Gravity will flush the lines. Just make sure you top off the MC every now and then. And if it takes 2-3 beers to do all four calipers don't immediately take a test drive... lol

 

[manijak]

do you see any problem with this plan?

 

[Scottydog]

Be careful with pressurizing the system too much. I've heard of the ABS being damaged by pressure. Personally I wouldn't hook the system up to a pneumatic pump.

 

[manijak]

the thing is i dont have abs
and i am just looking for the simplest good way to flush/bleed clutch+brakes without any potential damage
i would be happy to do it without the pressure bleeder, but as much as i understood , without it, it is very hard to bleed clutch , and pressing the brake(manual bleeding) can damage master cylinder seal(s), so i really dont know what to do

please if you have something to add, we can continue here so we dont have to go offtopic

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Yeah, 15 psi is all you need. Also, make sure your air is dry and empty out your compressor. I once used someone's compressor that spit out more water than air!

 

[Scottydog]

Yeah, 15 psi is all you need. Also, make sure your air is dry and empty out your compressor. I once used someone's compressor that spit out more water than air!

With my motive I pump to 5-10 psi. With high pressure you could blow seals, in addition to the water contamination issue you pointed out Chitty. The whole point of changing the fluid is to removed water contaminated DOT 3/4.

The traditional 2 man open close method is time tested and works. Let's not make this too complicated.