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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It is an excellent write-up. My suggestions may seem harsh, but I'm just being terse and I'm trying to think of every little thing that might bring it closer to perfection, IMHO.

Why "brake shoes/pads"? Isn't this only about the drum brakes?
I'd recommend the brake hardware from a dealer over the aftermarket kit like that from The Parts Place, Inc. The aftermarket springs are not all the correct shape and you'll be forced to reuse old springs (which do eventually break in use).
Why just bearing races and not bearings? There are no instructions for replacing the bearing races, anyway. That should be a separate how-to. New grease seals would be a better suggestion, in case they are bad or get wrecked during this job.
No C-clamp or VW tool 3272 needed for drum brakes.
Why apply the parking brake when you're jacking up the rear? No mention of releasing the parking brake later, which will make removing the drum a little difficult.
In the first picture, it would help to identify the "anchor" so that later instructions can be easily understood.
Why show channel-lock pliers removing the "cage" when you can easily remove it with your fingers? Also, you call it "locking cap" above the picture and "cage" in the picture.
The pic of the rear disc brakes is supposed to convery what "same idea"?
How about, "You should now be able to remove the brake drum.", instead of "You should now be able to remove the drum brake and drum brake shoes."?
When you mention releasing the adjuster for the second time and show a picture, it might help a neophyte if you point to the bottom of the adjuster wedge, where they need to pry, instead of at the push rod.
Where it says, "Here we see the hold-down springs and the "nails" still in place." there are no hold-down springs in evidence.
The picture showing moving the shoes off of the anchor shows them already off of the pistons. Yet you describe moving the shoes off of the pistons afterward.
What is "shimming" the pistons and how far is too far to move the pistons?
"(do not apply grease do the brake rotor)" does not apply here.
A picture pointing out some of the more important grease locations could be a help. Identifying the "slides" would also.
Any advice on safely getting the shoes back onto the pistons? Can we turn the pistons first so the the ears are below the ends of the shoes?
What bolts is, "Lightly coat the bolts and hub mounting surfaces with anti-sieze, and reinstall." referring to? The drum hasn't gone back on yet.
This might be a good time to inspect the surface that the grease seal will be sliding over. Any rust can compromise the seal and it should be clean and lightly greased. The seal should be inspected and replaced if necessary.
You might mention that they should spin the wheel after initially torquing the wheel bearing nut and before adjusting it so that the washer can be moved without prying.
"... and readjust the parking brake cable."

That's every nit that I could find (or imagine that I was finding).

Premium Member
23,904 Posts
I looked at the article and yes, I can see what you are talking about. Some of the items were cut/paste from another writeup. I had a blanket statement about putting the parking brake on, this would not let you work on it, lol. I also added a safety note about not using the factory jack aka, the widowmaker. That jack is for road emergencies and you should never get under the car when it is supported by just that jack, I'll find somewhere to stuff the below pic. More updates will come as I can find the time, thanks for your help!

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