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Discussion Starter #1
Having problems with my sons jetta installed timing belt a tank of fuel ago
And it was running fine except some limp mode issues which I fix by repacing
Vacuum lines and check valve. After tb installation I checked the pump timing it's was spot on.
After about little over 600 miles it started cutting out and then died. I thought it might
Have been some mosture in the fuel. I replaced the filter, pulled fuel through the ip with hand vacuum
I started and drove home. 2 days later it does the same thing
Since then it has done this a couple more times. Scan the codes and get a p1248
I also looked at the pump timing and now it constantly fluctuates between 46-63.
When I originally check it it was at a steady 56. Also the fuel quanity is running
At 3.4 at idle.

I have not been able to log with my lap top cause the battery is gone, and I tried using another laptop i have But some reason it doesn't recognize the Ross tech interface.

Any ideals?
 

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One possible solution, look under the dashboard at the relay panel. You can remove the knee panel to look. If the relay marked 109 is black, replace it with a gray relay 109. the old style can fail. If you don't see a glow plug light when it dies and you try to restart, it's relay 109.
 

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ruled out the relay 109 still cuts out after warmed up

I replaced the relay 109 and it still stalls and dies after about 5 min of driving. I can get it to start again after about 5-10 min and then it stalls and dies again a few minutes later
it has fuel in the return line no bubbles, fresh filter.
Could it be the injection pump? one time I crack one of the injection lines open and cranked it over and it just dribbled out seems like weak pressure.
I has 290k and the pump has had gas ran in it a couple of times a few years ago, although it doesn't leak at all
 

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Next time it dies check the asv and make sure it's wide open, the only other thing I can think of is maybe the fuel shut off solonoid on the pump acting up.:)
 

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p1248 is Start of Injection Timing Regulation: Control Deviation

Possible Causes
Start of Injection Timing Regulation not OK
Injection Pump Control Range blocked/dirty (e.g. by Metal Particles)
Engine has stalled / ran out of Fuel recently
Wiring/Connectors from/to Injection Valve (N108) faulty

Possible Solutions
Check/Adjust Injection Start. See TDI Timing Checker
Check Fuel Supply
Check/Replace Fuse(s)
Check/Repair Wiring/Connectors from/to Injection Valve (N108)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
case relief valve?

I checked the case relief valve as the last post described and although the retainer wasn't fully seated it made not bearing on the stalling problem. I rescanned and checked the timing and no codes and timing was as set previously. tried another 109 relay and nothing still stalls.
I'll check the ground under the battery box to make sure its bonded good tomarrow, and I'll switch the fuel cutoff solenoid to eliminate that. I ran all the active solenoid tests and they all click but who knows if there actually moving the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
update

car has 288k on the clock, intake, Egr valve, all inter cooler and related components have been cleaned less than 600 miles ago. egr has been deleted but no other codes. I cleaned re-bonded all the grounds under the battery.
installed another fuel cutoff solenoid. but I must have mess up the fuel quantity adjustment because it idles like crap now after pulling the top off the IP to get access to the solenoid. a 23mm wrench was to small and a 24 was to big. I used a 15/16 socket, that's why I took the top off the pump.
There was a small amount of fine metal shavings on the underside of the regulator assembly.
is this pump trashed?
 

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You can readjust the quantity adjuster by measuring the injection quantity and adjusting it back to spec: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/IQ-adjust-hammer-mod-TDI.htm

Sorry to hear about the fine metal shavings but if you're sure they're metal, the pump is gone. Pics? Normally a pumps should last much longer but the gas didn't help. If it was a few years since the gassing any damage would have flushed out long ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update!

If you ever remove the top off the IP don't mess with the fuel quantity limit mechanism. It took me 8 tries to get it back like it was. I also removed the sender fuel pickup assembly to check for algae or anything that could be restricting the flow It was all clean, I checked the supply and return hose to verify flow, I checked the fuel pump by removing the return hose to the filter and cycle the pump by turning on the key and turning the key to the on position. it only runs for a few seconds each cycle on-off-on with the clutch depressed. unless the motor is running, I guess this is normal. I did get fuel running out the return hose to the filter so I figure ever things good there. As I mentioned in a earlier post there was a minute amount of fine metal shavings clinging to the underside of the quantity adjustment solenoid I guess because it was magnetized from being energized. Anyhow I did a test run and it didn't stall or die once in a 10 mile road run. You don't suppose the fuel tank could be creating a vacuum and starving the fuel? This never happen before I did the TB, Clutch flywheel, New turbo, cleaned intake and all inter cooler and ducting repairs . But My son lost the fuel cap so I replace it from one from rock auto at the same time as these repairs. I assumed all caps have some sort of check valve for venting purposes. I told my son if it does stumble and stall to leave the cap loose to where it can breath just to see if that's what could be causing the problem.
Just trying to rule out all possibilities before springing for an IP.
 

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Double check the fuel pickup in the tank, the filter there could be clogged and restricting fuel or popped off. It's under the right rear seat under a round access panel held by 3 screws.
 
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