97 Jetta clutch stuck on floor
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When you say "turns on" I guess this means the engine turns on normally but you can't put it into gear. There is a switch under the clutch pedal that lets you start the engine only when the clutch pedal is down. So far, we know this is working. Normally I would say a stuck shifter or non engaging shifter is caused by the shifter assembly on top of the transmission but you say the clutch pedal is stuck.
From easy and more obvious to harder and more expensive...
First idea, clutch fluid is dry or low. Does pumping the pedal do anything? It's not safe to drive in this condition. Open the brake fluid/clutch fluid (they share the same reservoir) and see if it's at least at min. You cannot just add fluid since air got in the lines. See this FAQ: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a4/brakeclutch%20fluid.htm It's for the mk4 cars but it's almost identical. You must add fluid and get out the air.
Other idea - clutch pedal is broken or the clutch pedal linkage to the master cylinder or to the clutch pedal is broken. Look under the dashboard at the pedal cluster, it should be obvious. If you see fluid leaking from around the clutch pedal linkage, the clutch master cylinder has blown a seal.
More difficult - these are things that you can't see with a quick inspection but could cause the clutch pedal to get stuck on the floor. Clutch slave cylinder (follow the clutch fluid line to the cylinder on top of the transmissino) has failed or is leaking. You have to unbolt it to inspect. Clutch fork, pivot ball, or clutch/pressure plate is having a problem- this will prevent the clutch slave cylinder from doing anything. These require transmission removal to fix. See the transmission removal FAQ for pictures of these items.
In an emergency, (advanced technique for real emergencies where you cannot get help), put the car in first gear with the engine off. Start the car and hold the ignition to get the car moving. Once it's moving, drive until the normal speed for 2nd gear. You can upshift without the clutch as long as the engine rpm is matched. You can also "feel" the shift lever slip in. Don't force it because it won't work. Shift as needed. When you get to a red light, shut off the engine and start again. I recommend first practicing this on a level road with no traffic to try it out. You should always be rev matching to minimize transmission and clutch wear and for smoothest shifting anyways. Of course you want to use the clutch for normal driving, again, this is just an excercise to learn this technique and make you aware of engine rev matching to improve your normal driving.
Good luck.
From easy and more obvious to harder and more expensive...
First idea, clutch fluid is dry or low. Does pumping the pedal do anything? It's not safe to drive in this condition. Open the brake fluid/clutch fluid (they share the same reservoir) and see if it's at least at min. You cannot just add fluid since air got in the lines. See this FAQ: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a4/brakeclutch%20fluid.htm It's for the mk4 cars but it's almost identical. You must add fluid and get out the air.
Other idea - clutch pedal is broken or the clutch pedal linkage to the master cylinder or to the clutch pedal is broken. Look under the dashboard at the pedal cluster, it should be obvious. If you see fluid leaking from around the clutch pedal linkage, the clutch master cylinder has blown a seal.
More difficult - these are things that you can't see with a quick inspection but could cause the clutch pedal to get stuck on the floor. Clutch slave cylinder (follow the clutch fluid line to the cylinder on top of the transmissino) has failed or is leaking. You have to unbolt it to inspect. Clutch fork, pivot ball, or clutch/pressure plate is having a problem- this will prevent the clutch slave cylinder from doing anything. These require transmission removal to fix. See the transmission removal FAQ for pictures of these items.
In an emergency, (advanced technique for real emergencies where you cannot get help), put the car in first gear with the engine off. Start the car and hold the ignition to get the car moving. Once it's moving, drive until the normal speed for 2nd gear. You can upshift without the clutch as long as the engine rpm is matched. You can also "feel" the shift lever slip in. Don't force it because it won't work. Shift as needed. When you get to a red light, shut off the engine and start again. I recommend first practicing this on a level road with no traffic to try it out. You should always be rev matching to minimize transmission and clutch wear and for smoothest shifting anyways. Of course you want to use the clutch for normal driving, again, this is just an excercise to learn this technique and make you aware of engine rev matching to improve your normal driving.
Good luck.
Okay. Last night was too windy/cold to do any investigating. The cable is not attached to the clutch/release lever arm. I can't seem to see it when I take off the adjusting sleeve. When I take the rest of that outer cable off and pop it off from the firewall the inner cable is still there ...
Should I go to the wreckers and experiment/get a new cable? Call those numbskulls at the VW dealership?
How would I remove/attach the new cable? Is it theoretically like a bicycle brake cable?
Thanks
Should I go to the wreckers and experiment/get a new cable? Call those numbskulls at the VW dealership?
How would I remove/attach the new cable? Is it theoretically like a bicycle brake cable?
Thanks
Can you take pictures of what you talking about? If the shifter cable snapped, just buy a new one. I believe the cable comes on and off. Is it snapped at the transmission?
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Is this the part? http://worldimpex.com/parts/genuine-part-shift-link-lever-carrier_64545.html
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The clutch release arm is a hydraulic piston. Follow the clutch master cylinder to the top of the transmission. There is the clutch slave cylinder. This is what releases the clutch.
The plastic linkage pictured above is attached to the shifter knob and is what shifts the gears. It's possible this is broken.
The clutch release arm is a hydraulic piston. Follow the clutch master cylinder to the top of the transmission. There is the clutch slave cylinder. This is what releases the clutch.
The plastic linkage pictured above is attached to the shifter knob and is what shifts the gears. It's possible this is broken.
No no. Sorry, the cable is broken from the clutch pedal to the clutch release lever arm thingy. I was driving by the spot where the pedal went to the floor and I found the sheared/torn piece of cable and the weight it attaches to.
Right now I'm still trying to get out the old cable that attaches to the actual clutch foot pedal. There is a spring there that I don't think is interferring with anything and I've taken out the little switch (that connects to the starter?). I called my mechanic and he made it sound really easy to just pull the clutch from this side and it would unhinge the cable from the pedal ... apparently not.
I don't know if I am allowed to post links to other sites but this is the best I could find, if it had the instructions on getting the cable off of (and the new one on to) the foot pedal it would be ideal.
http://www.brokevw.com/releasearm.html
Thanks
Right now I'm still trying to get out the old cable that attaches to the actual clutch foot pedal. There is a spring there that I don't think is interferring with anything and I've taken out the little switch (that connects to the starter?). I called my mechanic and he made it sound really easy to just pull the clutch from this side and it would unhinge the cable from the pedal ... apparently not.
I don't know if I am allowed to post links to other sites but this is the best I could find, if it had the instructions on getting the cable off of (and the new one on to) the foot pedal it would be ideal.
http://www.brokevw.com/releasearm.html
Thanks
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23,902 Posts
Post links to any relevant site you want.
Is this on a TDI or a gasser? Sounds like a gasser since the TDI does not have a clutch cable. The 020 gas transmission did use a cable, the 02a TDI transmission on the TDI did not have a cable, hydraulic only. The pictures on that site are of cable operated clutches.
Is this on a TDI or a gasser? Sounds like a gasser since the TDI does not have a clutch cable. The 020 gas transmission did use a cable, the 02a TDI transmission on the TDI did not have a cable, hydraulic only. The pictures on that site are of cable operated clutches.
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2nd not a TDI if it has a clutch cable. The mechanic should be able to replace it though. Just make sure they adjust it, not sure how though.
It's a '97 diesel. I had the old clutch cable out and I ended up bringing it to the shop. The cable was super difficult to get off the clutch pedal. I think gas VWs are easier ...
The problem now is that it slips out of gear while I'm driving ... I think there might be too much tension on the cable. The mechanic said to bring it in tomorrow ... I doubt he'll be able to fix it. I'll probably just end up bringing it to this VW master.
The problem now is that it slips out of gear while I'm driving ... I think there might be too much tension on the cable. The mechanic said to bring it in tomorrow ... I doubt he'll be able to fix it. I'll probably just end up bringing it to this VW master.
G
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·Ah ha, a diesel but not a TDI. That's why!
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