2006 VW Jetta BRM TDI DSG to 5-speed manual swap/ conversion
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Between the wife and I being sick for the month of January, and the family commitments, my progress has been slow going.
What's done so far:
1) Pull transmission
2) Pull DSG axles
3) Pull cluster & send manual ECU to be flashed / married
4) remove DSG Shifter
5) Install 5sp shifter
6) Change brake pedal
7) Install clutch pedal & master cylinder
8) Install cluster & ECU
What's left to do:
1) Replace heater hoses while I have access
2) Modify wiring
3) Install clutch
4) Prep control arms - it's time to replace bushings and ball joints
5) Install transmission
6) Rebuild both axles - new boots and regrease
7) Install Axles
8) Adjust shifter cables & bleed clutch & brakes (time to change fluid anyway)
9) Pull control arms
10) Install control arms
11) Test drive & check alignment
Looks like at 2 more weekends.
Tony
What's done so far:
1) Pull transmission
2) Pull DSG axles
3) Pull cluster & send manual ECU to be flashed / married
4) remove DSG Shifter
5) Install 5sp shifter
6) Change brake pedal
7) Install clutch pedal & master cylinder
8) Install cluster & ECU
What's left to do:
1) Replace heater hoses while I have access
2) Modify wiring
3) Install clutch
4) Prep control arms - it's time to replace bushings and ball joints
5) Install transmission
6) Rebuild both axles - new boots and regrease
7) Install Axles
8) Adjust shifter cables & bleed clutch & brakes (time to change fluid anyway)
9) Pull control arms
10) Install control arms
11) Test drive & check alignment
Looks like at 2 more weekends.
Tony
Talk about slow going!
What's done so far:
1) Pull transmission
2) Pull DSG axles
3) Pull cluster & send manual ECU to be flashed / married
4) remove DSG Shifter
5) Install 5sp shifter
6) Change brake pedal
7) Install clutch pedal & master cylinder
8) Install cluster & ECU
Last weekend:
9) Replace heater hoses while I have access
This weekend:
10) Modify wiring
11) Rebuild both axles - new boots and regrease
12) Prep control arms - it's time to replace bushings and ball joints
13) Pull control arms
14) Install control arms
What's left to do:
1) Remove pilot bearing outer race
2) Install clutch
3) Install transmission
4) Install Axles
5) Adjust shifter cables & bleed clutch & brakes (time to change fluid anyway)
6) Test drive & check alignment
As usual, the pilot bearing is being a major PAIN. Looks like I will have to take my time with a small cold chisel.
Tony
What's done so far:
1) Pull transmission
2) Pull DSG axles
3) Pull cluster & send manual ECU to be flashed / married
4) remove DSG Shifter
5) Install 5sp shifter
6) Change brake pedal
7) Install clutch pedal & master cylinder
8) Install cluster & ECU
Last weekend:
9) Replace heater hoses while I have access
This weekend:
10) Modify wiring
11) Rebuild both axles - new boots and regrease
12) Prep control arms - it's time to replace bushings and ball joints
13) Pull control arms
14) Install control arms
What's left to do:
1) Remove pilot bearing outer race
2) Install clutch
3) Install transmission
4) Install Axles
5) Adjust shifter cables & bleed clutch & brakes (time to change fluid anyway)
6) Test drive & check alignment
As usual, the pilot bearing is being a major PAIN. Looks like I will have to take my time with a small cold chisel.
Tony
Hey Tony,
You DO NOT need to take the pilot bearing out or replace. It is not used in the manual. I left mine in, it was trashed anyways. The input shaft does not touch the pilot bearing when the transmission is mated to the engine.
You DO NOT need to take the pilot bearing out or replace. It is not used in the manual. I left mine in, it was trashed anyways. The input shaft does not touch the pilot bearing when the transmission is mated to the engine.
nc73,
I understand that. I even went so far as to measure and compare the depth of the input shaft. I know it clears the pilot bearing.
Given that I have most of the pilot bearing out, I feel the need to make sure the remainder of the outer race is removed. I'll give it some time with a cold chisel.
Thanks!
Tony
I understand that. I even went so far as to measure and compare the depth of the input shaft. I know it clears the pilot bearing.
Given that I have most of the pilot bearing out, I feel the need to make sure the remainder of the outer race is removed. I'll give it some time with a cold chisel.
Thanks!
Tony
I tried for a few minutes to get it out myself but like you, I measured and knew it wouldn't be a problem.
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so who has figured the whole thing out, for reverse switch if i have the engine harness off the car with the stick trans can i just put that on the car with the auto trans and that way the reverse switch will be hooked up, and also the wiring for the clutch for cruise, basically u just need it to kill the cruise when pushed, and then not start when not pushed right? or is there more to it thanks guys first time vw owner and I'm going to anttempt this
Wiring harness from a manual into an auto would just be a pain in the arse. It should solve most of the issues. You can accomplish everything by just following the wiring diagram and not having to swap the harness. It's all in the thread. I have everything working except reverse. It's not hard but I don't need it. No inspection in Ohio.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=434593
Dutch auto parts is the cheapest ships from Netherlands. There is one in the USA but 600 more. Otherwise you'll have to find a good deal on forums, if there is any. I got mine for 440 on tdiclub forum but that is super rare and i had to drive to canada to get it. Still way cheaper. Best thing I did was to convert it to manual. If you don't want to deal with the hassle just sell it and get one with manual. Overall it was pretty easy swap for me, did not take very long either.
Dutch auto parts is the cheapest ships from Netherlands. There is one in the USA but 600 more. Otherwise you'll have to find a good deal on forums, if there is any. I got mine for 440 on tdiclub forum but that is super rare and i had to drive to canada to get it. Still way cheaper. Best thing I did was to convert it to manual. If you don't want to deal with the hassle just sell it and get one with manual. Overall it was pretty easy swap for me, did not take very long either.
Ah so just the easy stuff left.Almost. All the heavy mechanical is done.
Left to do:
Bleed brakes & Clutch
Adjust shift cables
Interior
It may be running tonight.
Tony
Nice! Mine shifted horribly the first time because the shifter was so old, replaced it with a dieselgeek and no more misses!
Put about 100 miles on the car, before discovering a coolant leak. Fortunately, it was a slow drip that allowed me to get home without overheating or any other damage..
The plastic coolant flange at the back of the head leaks when it's got over ~8psi in the system. My best guess is that the o-ring shrank due to exposure to air, since I did not fill up the cooling system right after replacing the heater hoses.
Tony
The plastic coolant flange at the back of the head leaks when it's got over ~8psi in the system. My best guess is that the o-ring shrank due to exposure to air, since I did not fill up the cooling system right after replacing the heater hoses.
Tony
Well, it wasn't the o-ring that shrank. It was the gland that holds the o-ring that eroded, reducing support for the o-ring.
At this time, I have >200 miles on the car and no issues related to the conversion.
I am hoping to have some time in the next few days to upload pics and details around the wiring.
Tony
At this time, I have >200 miles on the car and no issues related to the conversion.
I am hoping to have some time in the next few days to upload pics and details around the wiring.
Tony
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