VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I'm new here and have never posted on here but I recently bought at 2006 Jetta that needed a new cam. It has been sitting for about 2 years like this and I just finished up the repairs. I ended up pulling the head and changing gaskets for good measure.
I've been trying to get it going and the first problem I noticed was my torsion value. I'm just using VCDS Its is not reading it at all it just says 0.0. I know that if its off too far it will read 0.0 but I have adjusted the timing gear on the cam in every position.
I squirted a little bit of starting fluid into it and it fired which makes me think its a fuel problem. I have fuel feeding the high pressure pump but not sure I the pump is even producing pressure. Not sure how to test the pump or injectors so any help would be appreciated!
-Cecil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any one have anything? I just pulled the valve cover and I don’t have any oil pressure that I can see. I changed the oil and used Mobil 1 5w-40 like recommend here on the forums. What could cause no oil pressure... bad oil pump? Do they go out often? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i take that back... now that I have a buddy’s help I do have oil pressure. Now it’s just a fuel problem. I have fuel going into the hpfp and some coming out of the return but still doesn’t fire. Don’t cuss me out 😂 but I tried a little more either and it fired a couple times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
i take that back... now that I have a buddy’s help I do have oil pressure. Now it’s just a fuel problem. I have fuel going into the hpfp and some coming out of the return but still doesn’t fire. Don’t cuss me out 😂 but I tried a little more either and it fired a couple times.
You have to prime the fuel pumps with a vcds vag cable and a computer. Search the forum on how to prime the pumps. I had to do my 2010 a couple years ago when I opened up the fuel lines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hello, I'm new here and have never posted on here but I recently bought at 2006 Jetta that needed a new cam. It has been sitting for about 2 years like this and I just finished up the repairs. I ended up pulling the head and changing gaskets for good measure.
I've been trying to get it going and the first problem I noticed was my torsion value. I'm just using VCDS Its is not reading it at all it just says 0.0. I know that if its off too far it will read 0.0 but I have adjusted the timing gear on the cam in every position.
I squirted a little bit of starting fluid into it and it fired which makes me think its a fuel problem. I have fuel feeding the high pressure pump but not sure I the pump is even producing pressure. Not sure how to test the pump or injectors so any help would be appreciated!
-Cecil
I also got a 2006 Jetta and it was sitting for at least 2 years plus. I changed the cam and timing belt. Mine did start and was running rough prior to doing that. was running good for a couple of months, then lost power driving to work like it wasn't getting fuel, then no start. also checked and getting fuel to filter. Got new tandem pump yesterday, should have it in in a day or two. I'll let you know how that goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I also got a 2006 Jetta and it was sitting for at least 2 years plus. I changed the cam and timing belt. Mine did start and was running rough prior to doing that. was running good for a couple of months, then lost power driving to work like it wasn't getting fuel, then no start. also checked and getting fuel to filter. Got new tandem pump yesterday, should have it in in a day or two. I'll let you know how that goes.
Oh, was yours running before you put new cam in???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
68 Posts
I found a easy way of priming the fuel system on the PD. Pull at least 2 glow plugs, ensure no dirt around plug prior to removal. If you have never had them out, use a beam torque wrench, I read not to go over 25 Ft. lbs. removing the plug. 10 MM deep socket. Then turn the engine over, the fuel system is not dead-headed now. When the fuel is primed, a mist or cloud of vaporized fuel will come out the holes. 11 Ft. Lbs. for torquing the plugs. I use a little anti-seize on the threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You have to prime the fuel pumps with a vcds vag cable and a computer. Search the forum on how to prime the pumps. I had to do my 2010 a couple years ago when I opened up the fuel lines.
Thanks for the reply! I hooked the tandem pump return up to a hand held vacuum pump and pulled fuel through the system till air started coming out. Now fuel is circulating through the system but still hasn’t fired. I’m starting to think it’s my timing because when I go to set my torsion value it doesn’t read anything. (0.0)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found a easy way of priming the fuel system on the PD. Pull at least 2 glow plugs, ensure no dirt around plug prior to removal. If you have never had them out, use a beam torque wrench, I read not to go over 25 Ft. lbs. removing the plug. 10 MM deep socket. Then turn the engine over, the fuel system is not dead-headed now. When the fuel is primed, a mist or cloud of vaporized fuel will come out the holes. 11 Ft. Lbs. for torquing the plugs. I use a little anti-seize on the threads.
I’ll give that a try to see if I’m getting fuel from the injectors right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh, was yours running before you put new cam in???
Thanks for replying, Yes... the person I got it from said it ran but not very good. I got it all taken apart too🤦🏼‍♂️ Let me know how your new tandem pump works, thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I found a easy way of priming the fuel system on the PD. Pull at least 2 glow plugs, ensure no dirt around plug prior to removal. If you have never had them out, use a beam torque wrench, I read not to go over 25 Ft. lbs. removing the plug. 10 MM deep socket. Then turn the engine over, the fuel system is not dead-headed now. When the fuel is primed, a mist or cloud of vaporized fuel will come out the holes. 11 Ft. Lbs. for torquing the plugs. I use a little anti-seize on the threads.
So I pulled all 4 glow plugs and cranked it over and no mist/moisture was coming out. So maybe there is something that it doesn’t like and it’s disabling the injectors from firing. I do not have any codes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This may be obvious, but I guess I'll ask. Is the injector harness fully connected? not sure if it would cause any codes.
Yes, it is fully connected down at the head... maybe up towards the ecu though, I didn’t mess with any of it so I’m not sure. I did readjust all the injectors and I followed the forums on that so I believe they are correct, I’ll double check them
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
202 Posts
The torsion value can read 0.0 in 2 conditions, a. It is 0.0 or b. It is so far out, it just reports 0.0. IME, the torsion value is not reported until the engine starts anyway, but it has been a few years since I was that deep into my BRM.

How long are you cranking the engine to try to start it? It is not uncommon to need to crank it for 20 to 30 seconds, yes solid 20s to 30s, after injector and fuel work. Meaning turn the key and hold it, even after the oil pressure warning starts flashing. It is called a long crank and you just feel like you are destroying your starter. But, alas, many have started that way post cam swaps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The torsion value can read 0.0 in 2 conditions, a. It is 0.0 or b. It is so far out, it just reports 0.0. IME, the torsion value is not reported until the engine starts anyway, but it has been a few years since I was that deep into my BRM.

How long are you cranking the engine to try to start it? It is not uncommon to need to crank it for 20 to 30 seconds, yes solid 20s to 30s, after injector and fuel work. Meaning turn the key and hold it, even after the oil pressure warning starts flashing. It is called a long crank and you just feel like you are destroying your starter. But, alas, many have started that way post cam swaps.
I see well that eliminates my timing problem, yes I have cranked on it as long as 30 seconds, maybe even longer😬. I’ll try cranking on it some more too maybe I still haven’t gone longer I’ll let you know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The torsion value can read 0.0 in 2 conditions, a. It is 0.0 or b. It is so far out, it just reports 0.0. IME, the torsion value is not reported until the engine starts anyway, but it has been a few years since I was that deep into my BRM.

How long are you cranking the engine to try to start it? It is not uncommon to need to crank it for 20 to 30 seconds, yes solid 20s to 30s, after injector and fuel work. Meaning turn the key and hold it, even after the oil pressure warning starts flashing. It is called a long crank and you just feel like you are destroying your starter. But, alas, many have started that way post cam swaps.
The torsion value can read 0.0 in 2 conditions, a. It is 0.0 or b. It is so far out, it just reports 0.0. IME, the torsion value is not reported until the engine starts anyway, but it has been a few years since I was that deep into my BRM.

How long are you cranking the engine to try to start it? It is not uncommon to need to crank it for 20 to 30 seconds, yes solid 20s to 30s, after injector and fuel work. Meaning turn the key and hold it, even after the oil pressure warning starts flashing. It is called a long crank and you just feel like you are destroying your starter. But, alas, many have started that way post cam swaps.
So I cranked it over for 30 seconds and it never fired. I’m do you know of anywhere I can tap into it to just to be sure if I have fuel pressure? Im not sure where any access plugs but that would eliminate fuel if I could test pressure. Also I adjusted my injectors but when the injectors are in “non-fire position” the injector rockers have a lot of gap. I’m not sure if that’s normal or not.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
202 Posts
Have you checked your compression? Pull glow plugs and use the holes to connect up diesel compression gauge. Do you get any errors from VCDS?

Basic questions. When you put the cam back, you had the cam locked? You did not move the crank from the time you locked before you removed the cam until you timed it? The alignment hole that shows through the alignment window on the sprocket is just to the right of center?

I think you said you removed the injectors? If so, did you replace the seals when you reinstalled? Did you check the injector alignment, the tolerances are pretty tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Have you checked your compression? Pull glow plugs and use the holes to connect up diesel compression gauge. Do you get any errors from VCDS?

Basic questions. When you put the cam back, you had the cam locked? You did not move the crank from the time you locked before you removed the cam until you timed it? The alignment hole that shows through the alignment window on the sprocket is just to the right of center?

I think you said you removed the injectors? If so, did you replace the seals when you reinstalled? Did you check the injector alignment, the tolerances are pretty tight.
Ok I’ll check compression. And nope, no codes from vcds.

When I got the car it was all taken apart but the cam in place and neither the crank nor the cam locked in place. The timing belt was off and valve cover was off. Apparently it sat like this for some time. I replaced the head gasket and the valves looked fine and there was no witness marks of the valves and pistons kissing.

When reinstalling the timing belt I had both the cam and crank locked in place. I’ll have to check the alignment window. I tried figuring out what that window was for but never did.

Yes, I did but new seal kits for the injectors I took out. No, I did not know I had to check the injector alignment. Is there a forum that shows that?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
202 Posts
Have you looked at this? It shows where the window should be and the hole visible through the window. 2004, 2005, VW Jetta TDI, and 2006 VW Golf TDI, New Beetle TDI timing belt removal and replacement procedure part 1- 1.9L bew engine. the site used to be much better organized, there was an upgrade a couple years back and finding data has been more challenging. or maybe I am just old? Hmmmmm....

If you look at the injectors, the edges should be parallel to the cam caps. There is a measure from the timing belt side of the block the each one, I'll have to dig it up and it is like plus or minus 1 mm, I made a template when I tore mine apart and was having issues years back.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top