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2006 Jetta A5 BRM TDI 113k miles - Used your instructions to replace timing belt, tensioner, roller, water pump and serpentine belt at 106k - great instructions by the way! Used TDI Parts as supplier and also bought their timing belt tool kit.
Replacement went fine but after I have less power than previous. At the end of your article you mention using a VCDS? to time the engine. I called dealer and asked for price to check and adjust timing. The service manager checked with his tech who said they pin the engine when changing, and that the computer should be able to adjust for variances. However with less power I'm getting better mileage - around 56 mpg.
Now, in the last two weeks I've got a new sound - sounds as if a tail pipe hanger was loose, and is vibrating. It's most prevalent at idle, and I also noticed that the serpentine belt tensioner is rocking to the rattle tempo.
Tail pipe & muffler are tight - any suggestions?
Thanks,
Kenny:ugh
 

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Hey thanks!

I believe you might be able to use freeware version of vag com and a cheapo cable from ebay to check the timing. Not sure though since I use the genuine VCDS - it has more features.

Others have said you must check timing afterwards but the service manual doesn't say it. The computer does adjust fuel timing by itself and you can't adjust it. However, the camshaft timing is mechanical and linked to the position of the adjustable hub on the camshaft and timing belt. It's also possible that a boost hose is off but that shouldn't give you better mpg.

It's possible that the noise is a loose serpentine belt or the tensioner is bad/loose. If something is loose, find something and then tighten it :)
 

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2006 Jetta A5 BRM - new noise

Thanks CCBB
I went through the adjustment process three times and when I finished, I rotated the crank very slowly pressing in on the crankshaft lock. At the point where it would slide in and lock, I would then check the camshaft pin and when I finished, it would slide into the lock position without any effort - it was exactly centered. I will check into the software and cable you mentioned.
As for the serpentine tensioner, do they go bad? As mentioned before, the belt is new and was replaced 7k miles ago.
Ken
 

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Some cars had busting EGRs, check for sooty deposits. Did you get the tensioner in the tab? Maybe the belt is loose and flapping? Did you tighten the tensioner clockwise and not counter-clockwise?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Bluemojo
I'll check for soot but don't believe I'm seeing anything out of the ordinary. I'm quite sure the TB tensioner was set correctly, yes the tab on the backside is in it's receptacle, and I watched the video provided on this site three times to ensure I understood how to tension, and the pointer was in the window when I finished. I'm thinking it may be time to tear back into it and recheck the TB and tensions again. Is there a quick check on the EGR other than the soot?
Kenny
 

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You need a VCDS to test EGR function but I'm not sure the details of the recall and how to use VCDS to test it.

I wouldn't redo tension. You'll need a new nut, you have to lock everything, and if you're sure it's good, a visual inspection is all you need. It's normal for the pointer to move on a warm engine and through the normal motion of the engine. Don't fix it until it's broken!

I would have them check camshaft timing but if you have less power as a result of the timing belt job. Also check the 4x crank pulley bolts, maybe one is loose and is rattling under the rubber cover? Maybe the alternator pulley is bad and is rattling? These are just wild guesses but at least they're a start.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
New noise solved!

For everyone's info I have solved the new sound on my BRM. At suggestions above, I bought a new serpentine belt tensioner. After installing, it did seem to help the noise, still rocked somewhat but was much quieter.
I'm up to 127k miles now and while driving down the road a couple of days ago around 55 mph B A N G followed by an engine dragging sound. I pulled over to the side and the engine was still running and seemed okay, noise wise, so I got out raised the hood and found the pulley on the alternator was missing!! Then I spotted it down on the splash pan!!
After investigation, I found this isn't just a pulley - it's also a clutch!! And that sucker blew with needle bearings everywhere!! After replacing, it's amazing how quiet and smooth it runs now!! [What is the purpose of this thing anyway???]
And then taking a short cut and NOT disconnecting the battery, I shorted the power cable while tightening the nut reconnecting it on the alternator and blew the 200 amp mini ANL fuse - darn it!!!
So I ordered in a new fuse and guess what - My heading indicator (compass) has returned to life; guess it needed a reboot!
Hope this helps some one else!
Ken
 

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It's a clutch and oftentimes fails. Normally you get low juice with noise. It's supposed to extend the life of the alternator by making sure it doesn't jerk. Thanks for the update.
 

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Well that was a good post. I am getting ready to do my first Timing belt on my 2006 Jetta TDO BRM. I am trying to read a bunch to anticipate those little unknowns. I am still confused whether it is necessary to have a VCDS to check the timing, or if done correctly, unecessary. I would eventually like to get one but the need to buy specialty tools and complete TB kit is my current priority.
 

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VCDS isn't required to finish the job but you need one fine tune the timing. The timing may be a little off when you're done and it's impossible to see it without a VCDS. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the ebay vag coms can check timing but not much more.
 

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VCDS isn't required to finish the job but you need one fine tune the timing. The timing may be a little off when you're done and it's impossible to see it without a VCDS. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the ebay vag coms can check timing but not much more.
Thank you much. So it is probably best that I just go ahead and get the Ross Tech VCDS. I kind of figured that the case but wanted to check.
 
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