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:confused:volkswagon is telling me i need a new turbo charger, it goes into limp mode while driving, i shut the car off and turn it on while im driving and turbo kicks back in for a while but then goes back into limp mode, is this my problem? and where can i find a turbocharger at a reasonable rate other than what vw tries to rape me for
 

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This is a common problem, see this article for solutions:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/multi/limpmodetdi.htm First go to any auto parts store and get the error codes, otherwise you're just guessing. The article includes some tests which will let you narrow it down since there are a number of possible causes.

Even if you do need a new turbo here are sources:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/tditurbo.htm

scroll down to 4th gen 1998-2003 New Beetle/Golf, 1999.5-2003 Jetta ALH engine and you can click on direct links to vendors to compare pricing. You'll also need a new oil line since they often get twisted.Turbo upgrade guide for VW TDI body { background-image: url("http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/headerback.jpg"); background-repeat: no-repeat; }
 

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After this is fixed, drive hard for a while - lots of hard acceleration - this will burn up some of the carbon causing the turbo to stick if that's the cause.
 

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Since you have a 2004, you can't buy the VNT actuator by itself. That advice applies only to the ALH or similar actuators.
 

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2004 BEW turbo actuator

I tried in vain to locate an actuator with no luck. After 2 independant foriengn service shops plus the local VW dealer I decided to take a "band aid approach".

First of all here in Massachusetts you cannot get a inspection sticker if your check engine light is on for any reason. They will issue you an " emission reject" sticker good for a few months if all the safety items pass. This is where I am at today. My check engine light is on because the sensor in the actuator is bad. I also go into limp mode constantly. I have 230K miles on my car and am hoping to get through the winter with it.

Here is my temp fix, it cost less than $2 dollars. I unplugged the connector from the actuator. I located (3) electronic pins that I could get to fit the female porton of the connector (the connector not on the actuator. I had some 22K ohm 1/4 watt resistors lying around, so I used two resistors and mad a small jumper with the resistors and pins. The circuit is as follows...

Make a jumper using the pins and resistors so that one end of each resistor will plug inot the outer female pins of the connector and the two other ends of each connects to the middle female plug.

My check engine light is out, I do not go into limp mode. Now I have just tried this for ~150 miles but all looks good. I do not know what effect this will have on performace or what risk are involved.

The theory behind this is as follows....

The sensor has 3 wires, 1 wire provides a +5 Volt DC voltage, 1 wire provides the common or ground for the 5 volts DC and the 3rd wire is the signal wire that sends a DC voltage back to the ECM. This signal would be somewhere between 0 volts DC and 5 Volts DC depending on where the actuator is positioned. I assume it is directly proportional eg.. with the actuator midway the signal would be 2.5 Volts DC. The jumper I made sends 2.5 Volts DC back to the ECM.

Please post all concerns about this mod.

Remeber I did this just to pass inspection as we get surcharges on our insurance if busted without an inspection sticker.
 
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