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Hello All! New to this forum. I have an 06 Jetta TDI with a bad rear wheel bearing. I am planning on replacement this weekend. Does anybody have a torque specs needed for this job? Thank you.
 

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Axle nut: 133 ft-lb + 1/4 turn. It's a single use bolt only, you don't want the wheel falling off!

Not sure if the dust shield has to come off but the dust shield bolts are 6 ft-lb

Brake caliper-carrier bolts 26-ft lb (single use bolt)

Brake carrier housing bots 66 + 1/4 turn (single use bolt)

I haven't done it on this car but it should be similar to this:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/rear-brake-bearing-sound.htm

You don't have to disconnect the brake line, just put it to the side and don't let the caliper hang by the brake line.
 

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Thanks for the info!!!! Looks straight forward enough to do. Have done the front bearings, this is my first rear. :panic:
 

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Yes, lots of noise. I thought it was the front (which was really bad!), but changed it and the noise is still there. Checked the rears and found one wheel with movement in both directions. Ordered a new assembly. I am really kind of disappointed in this car, 95,000 and have had to change both fronts and now a rear bearing. This is getting expensive and they have worn out for no apperent reason. I think VW could have done a little better than this! Next is the timing belt.
 

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Bearing job completed. Thank you for the helpful information. This is a fairly simple one for anyone who hasn't done it but is considering trying. Just make sure you have the 18mm driver and an hour.
 

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Good job. If you took detailed pictures it would have qualified for the writeup contest and prize. Any additional tips or "gotchas" would be helpful but it won't qualify for the contest. Any tips?
 

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Axle nut: 133 ft-lb + 1/4 turn. It's a single use bolt only, you don't want the wheel falling off!

Not sure if the dust shield has to come off but the dust shield bolts are 6 ft-lb

Brake caliper-carrier bolts 26-ft lb (single use bolt)

Brake carrier housing bots 66 + 1/4 turn (single use bolt)

I haven't done it on this car but it should be similar to this:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/rear-brake-bearing-sound.htm

You don't have to disconnect the brake line, just put it to the side and don't let the caliper hang by the brake line.
Just an added note. I recently did a rear axle bearing and I checked with the shop foreman of VW Northern in Edmonton and he said the spec for a new axle bolt should be to torque to 180 NM (133 ft. lbs.) and then turn an additional 180 degrees (1/2 turn). Be careful to check the ABS sender for clearance, it costs $102 from VW. I was told VW has a policy to not sell service manuals and do everything they can to force owners to go to the dealer. They wouldn't give my shop the info over the phone even though I have an account with them. I had to go in to the dealer.
 

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I am really kind of disappointed in this car, 95,000 and have had to change both fronts and now a rear bearing. This is getting expensive and they have worn out for no apperent reason. I think VW could have done a little better than this! Next is the timing belt.
Have you owned the car since it was new?
 

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Quick question,

On the rear wheel bearing bolts, are they both right handed threads? (left, right side)

Don't want to be putting a breaker bar and pipe on it to break it loose just to find out I'm going the wrong way. LOL
 

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I did replace the left rear bearing a couple months ago. Had to heat the bolt to get it to break. I actually bent a 5 ft. pipe over the breaker bar and it would not loosen. Time to get the torch. All went well with the replacement.
 

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Axle nut: 133 ft-lb + 1/4 turn. It's a single use bolt only, you don't want the wheel falling off!

Not sure if the dust shield has to come off but the dust shield bolts are 6 ft-lb

Brake caliper-carrier bolts 26-ft lb (single use bolt)

Brake carrier housing bots 66 + 1/4 turn (single use bolt)

I haven't done it on this car but it should be similar to this:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/rear-brake-bearing-sound.htm

You don't have to disconnect the brake line, just put it to the side and don't let the caliper hang by the brake line.
Just replaced the right rear wheel bearing on my 2006 Jetta TDI. There was no play but man it sounded awful! Took everything down using This write up. No, the dust sheild doesn't need to come off. You do need some special tools 14 and 18 triple square, a long breaker bar and helper bar (my 750ft lb 1/2 drive impact could not bust it loose) and be prepared to remove a separated bearing race. You also need to be prepared to replace the rotors and pads. My rotor was rusted on (uncoated brand) and had to use a 5lb persuasion tool. Dinged it up pretty good.
 

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Hi, i need to this , just finished doing the cam job, timing kit, and after i took it out for a drive ( 1st real drive after i bought it), the noise is oooo loud on the rear wheel bearing. Ima do both. Interesting about the 18mm triple square, i hope autozone or advance have them in stock. Will keep you posted.
 

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Unfortunately, most auto parts stores don't carry an 18 triple square. They have a set with a 6, 8, 10 and 12...
Got my MNXZ18 and MNXZ14 from MetalNerd.com
 

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Hope it gets there soon!
You do have a m14 triple square to remove the Brake Caliper cage... right?
 

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Yes, i have the 16 and 14, those you can find around.
Today i took the car home, i couldnt help it, even with the bad bearing , and i bad egr ( learned how to not give it the opportunity to studder at low rpm) :D I def like this more than my MK4, can't wait to throw a stage 2 Malone at it after everything goes to normal.
You think i should make a topic with the work i've done on it and stuff? i have pictures.
 
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