back to 1000q: immobilizer general information
General system information and troubleshooting
Recoding the key without a vag-com/VCDS OR Recoding a new key
with VCDS - required to make new keys work with the immobilizer
Swapping out the ECU: you must use this function if
you change the ECU
Instrument cluster swapping: this is where
the immobilizer is located, resets odometer, etc.
Immobilizer 3 measuring blocks: accessible only with a VCDS
The immobilizer is an anti-theft device located in the instrument cluster
using a chip in your key with an antenna or "pick up" at the ignition cylinder.
This chip is pictured below. It's not possible to bypass the immobilizer with normal "car theft" tools so
don't bother asking. If you have an immobilizer 3 key you can only replace
it with an immobilizer 3 key. If you're looking only to replace the VW
smart key, see 1000q:
VW key/remote FAQ for more details. This page details the other parts
of the immobilizer system and immobilizer 3 specific procedures.
The main symptom of a faulty immobilizer system is the car shutting off after two seconds or the anti-theft light on the dashboard flashing. A very low car battery or battery removal could also trigger the immobilizer. Some people report certain computers with wireless internet activated in the car interfering with the transmitter in the key of the immobilizer. If you want to be super careful, don't let the key get exposed to high strength microwaves. Standing next to a microwave won't do anything but putting the key into a microwave will quickly damage the chip (and possibly the microwave).
For immo3: you need SKC to use a new key, instrument cluster, or ECU. You cannot use used keys from another car since the immobilizer chip can only be set once per car. The reason why is because it uses a rolling immobilizer code instead of a simple transmit 1 code like earlier systems.
The immobilizer chip has a range of about 1" through plastic and about
3" when out of the key. Although the computer constantly monitors if
the chip is correct or not, it won't shut off the engine after the first few
seconds of the car engine starting. I'm pretty sure that it won't shut off
the engine even if the chip signal is interrupted during driving. (I don't want
to test it by driving around without the chip signal).
The part numbers below are only a guide, double check the correct part number with your parts vendor, this website is not responsible if you order the wrong key!
-If you have a car with build date 10/00- 05/01 (about model year 2000-2002), you probably have the remote that looks like #1, it should be VW# 1j0 959 753t.
-If you have a car built after 05/01 (about model year 2001-2002), you
should have remote #2, it is either VW# 1j0 959 753 am or 1j0 959 753 dc, it
should have immo 3. You don't have immo 4 unless you have an mk5 car.
If you still
can't figure out if you have immobilizer 2 or 3, use a ross tech VCDS to access
the immobilizer module. Go to measuring block 81. If you see your
VIN number it's 100% not immobilizer 2.
Since this information could be used for illegal purposes, this content is for forum members only. Registration is free so please sign up and post an introduction or your problem of why you need the SKC number. Do not copy/paste the information elsewhere and be careful who you share it with because this information should not be common knowledge! This exclusive content and the information below can be viewed in this post once you have posted an introduction. You must have at least 1 post to view. If you have nothing else to say, just post an intro with where you're from and what car you're working on. Do not post a "blank message" to intentionally bypass forum rules or your account will be blocked. A blank message prevents any help and if that's what you want, that's what you will get.
Remote starters will work but they must have a booster box approved for the VW/Audi chip. You put the key or chip inside the booster box and hide the box in the car. When you use the remote starter, the booster box uses the immobilizer chip in it to pass a valid signal to the immobilizer antenna on the ignition coil pickup. It will then work like any other remote starter. Make sure that the car is in park or neutral (if manual) whenever using a remote starter.
-The chip inside the key does not have a battery or other internal electricity source because it is an RFID chip and is "excited" by the transmitter. Shaking the key or changing the remote key's battery will not fix any problem with the immobilizer.
-If your car shuts off more than 3 seconds after engine start it has nothing to do with the immobilizer as explained in the general immobilizer FAQ.
-It also has nothing to do with opening or unlocking the doors. The immobilizer will not be activated by the alarm system, it only has to do with starting the car.
-It also has nothing to do with the power of the car. If your car has poor performance or fuel economy, it has nothing to do with the immobilizer. See 1000q: limp mode for the TDI for more details.
This article is separated into immo-2 and immo-3 sections because they have different procedures. Immo-4 general overview is also included, troubleshooting procedures are similar to earlier cars. Note that to work with the immobilizer, you MUST have a VCDS. You cannot use a generic code scanner, you must use a VCDS cable. You can only use an emergency start without a VCDS. and even then you must know the SKC code.
Also note that immo-2 and immo-3 keys are not compatible. If you have an immo-2 car, you must use an immo-2 remote/key.
1. First, make sure the car battery is charged. A low battery can cause problems with the immobilizer. It also results in low cranking RPM during engine start - this will cause the ECU to prevent fueling.
2. Try another key - you should have a valet key and spare key that also have an immobilizer chip in them. If they work, then you have isolated the problem to the key. Again, there is NO battery for the immo chip, it gets power from the ignition switch transmitter. You can try reprogramming the chip with the procedures linked to below.
3. Check for error codes - scan the car with a VCDS to see if there is a problem with the system and refer to the appropriate procedure below.
4. You can try just leaving the key in the ignition to "ON" but not start for a few minutes. Many people report that the light just goes away after 10 minutes as if nothing ever happened. This and the next solution appear to have something to do with a capacitor discharge or something resetting. It sounds strange but many report that it works.
5. Disconnect the battery negative terminal and step on the brake pedal - this turns on the brake lights and discharges any stored electricity. This may reset the immo system. I've heard that disconnecting BOTH negative and positive terminals of the battery and then touching the cables to each other only, while not attached to the battery can also reset it. I think that it takes more time and does the same thing as disconnecting the negative side and turning on the brake lights. Again, don't touch the cables to the battery, touch them only to each other while both are disconnected from the battery - you don't want to short the battery out.
6. Check wiring and plugs at instrument cluster and pickup coil at the ignition switch, there is a chance it could be faulty. You could try wiggling the key in the slot in case there's a problem with the pickup coil. However, the range of the antenna/chip is about 1" so it's definitely not a range problem.
7. Put a trickle charger on the battery, put the key to the "ON" position and leave it for a few hours. If it didn't reset after 10 minutes it's been known to reset after a few hours and never appear again.
Procedures
Mirrored from ross tech's site
Recoding a new key without a VCDS OR recoding it with a VCDS
When you buy a replacement key, you must have it matched to work with the immobilizer. The remote unlock/lock, etc., has nothing to do with the immobilizer, so that must be matched separately. You can either use a VCDS to recode it or you can take the old key apart and just remove the old RFID chip and put it in your new key. The RFID chip is just glued in place, there are no batteries for the chip. The only batteries are for the remote unlock.
To reuse the existing immobilizer chip, pop it out (pictured below) and swap it with the new key's chip. Use some water based glue to help hold it in place. See 1000q: mk4 key FAQ for a detailed procedure, this article is more about the immobilizer.
Image of key disassembled - note that the immobilizer chip (white arrow) uses
no battery - it is energized by the pick up antenna on the ignition coil.
Recoding a key with VCDS - mirrored from ross tech's site
This procedure details how to match new keys to Immobilizer-equipped VW/Audi vehicles. As of 11 Mar. 2002, VW and Audi are providing 7-digit Secret Key Codes in place of the earlier 4-digit SKC's. Keys must be coded using the new 7-digit SKC (secret key code) method unless the owner still has the correct 4-digit code.
Procedure for matching keys to vehicles with Immobilizer in the Instrument Cluster:
(includes many 1999+ Golf/GTI/Jetta/New Beetle/Passat, also Audi)
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
Write down the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number from the "Extra" field
(In some newer vehicles, if the Immobilizer ID is not in the "Extra" field, check in Measuring Block 081)
Take that ID number to your dealer and request your seven-digit SKC, along with the workshop code and importer number (all this information can be found in the upper-right corner of the Administration screen of the dealer's VAS 5051).
Measure the car's battery voltage, it must be 12.5 V or higher.
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Login - 11] (In some newer vehicles use [16-Security Access] )
[Use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
Enter the 7-digit PIN, Date on which the PIN was generated by the dealer, along with the Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number of the dealer that generated the code.
[OK]
VCDS will validate the data you have entered and return you to the Login screen, where the Login Code will show as "XXXXX".
[Do It!]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter 21 in "Channel Number"
[Read]
The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.
Enter "new value" of 0
[Save]
This clears out the old key-matchings.
Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Switch ignition off and remove key
Insert next key to ignition and switch ignition on again
The warning light for the Immobilizer will light up for ~2 seconds, then go out
Switch ignition off and remove key
Repeat step 8 with each key until all keys have been matched.
Procedure for adding keys to vehicles with separate Immobilizer:
(Includes 2000+ EuroVan, Cabrio, and many older non-US models)
[Select]
[25 - Immobilizer]
Write down the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number from the "Extra" field
Take that ID number to your dealer and request your seven-digit SKC, along with the workshop code and importer number (all this information can be found in the upper-right corner of the Administration screen of the dealer's VAS 5051).
Measure the car's battery voltage, it must be 12.5 V or higher.
[Select]
[25 - Immobilizer]
[Login - 11]
[Use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
Enter the 7-digit PIN, the date on which the PIN was generated by the dealer, along with the Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer Number of the dealer that generated the code.
[OK]
VCDS will validate the data you have entered and return you to the Login screen, where the Login Code will show as "XXXXX".
[Do It!]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter 01 in "Channel Number"
[Read]
The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.
Enter "new value" of 0
[Save]
This clears out the old key-matchings.
Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Switch ignition off and remove key
Insert next key to ignition and switch ignition on again
Count to two ("One one-thousand, two one-thousand") out loud
Switch ignition off and remove key
Repeat step 8 with each key until all keys have been matched.
Immobilizer III:
Some 2001+ Volkswagen/Audi vehicles have Immobilizer III. This works similarly to Immobilizer II, except a secret key code (SKC) is required in order to perform the adaptation routine. The routine changes depending on whether you are using a BRAND NEW ECU that has never been in any other car, or if you are using a USED ECU that has been previously matched to another car.
Immo-3 knows your car's VIN. Access 17-Instruments (or separate 25-Immobilizer on vehicles that are set up that way) and look at the first "Extra" field.
If you see something like: "Immo-ID VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got Immo-2 (or maybe even Immo-1 in earlier non-US models).
If you see something like "WVZKB58001H231169 VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got
Immo-3. The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID.There are different procedures for installing a new ECU or a usedECU.
Before Installing a BRAND NEW ECU in vehicle, get the ECM coding from the old ECU in the vehicle
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
Write down the 5-digit Soft. Coding
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[17 - Instruments]
Write down the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number from the "Extra" field
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Take that 14-digit Immobilizer ID number (along with your VIN number) to your dealer and request your seven-digit SKC, along with the workshop code and importer number (all this information can be found in the upper-right corner of the Administration screen of the dealer's VAS 5051).
Install new ECU in the vehicle.
Measure the car's battery voltage, it must be 12.5 V or higher.
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter "50" in Channel Number
[Read]
[Use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
Enter the 7-digit PIN, Date on which the PIN was GENERATED BY THE DEALER, along with the dealer's Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number
[OK]
VCDS will validate the data you have entered and return you to the Adaptation screen, where the New Value will show as "XXXXX".
[Test]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
Verify that the VIN now displayed in the "Extra" field matches the VIN on the vehicle code from dealer
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[Go Back]
[Exit]
Turn ignition OFF and then back on within one minute, but do not start vehicle for two minutes
After 2 minutes, start the vehicle
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
Verify that the 5-digit Soft. Coding matches the coding from the old ECU
[Fault Codes - 02]
Clear all DTC's.
Before Installing a USED ECU (we'll call it ECU #2) in vehicle, get the ECM coding from the current ECU (we'll call it ECU #1) in the vehicle
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
Write down the 5-digit Soft. Coding
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Install the USED ECU (ECU #2) in vehicle, (the Immobilizer light will be flashing, that's okay for now)
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
Write down the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number from the "Extra" field. This the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number for ECU#2.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[17 - Instruments]
Write down the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number from the "Extra" field. This the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number for ECU#1.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Bring both 14-digit ID numbers to your dealer and request both your seven-digit SKC's
Keep track of the SKC for ECU#1 and the SKC for the ECU#2, as well as the Date on which each SKC was GENERATED BY THE DEALER, along with the dealer's Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number.
Measure the car's battery voltage, it must be 12.5 V or higher.
With the USED ECU (ECU #2) in vehicle, (the Immobilizer light will be flashing, that's okay for now)
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Login - 11]
[Use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
Enter the 7-digit PIN from ECU #2, Date on which the PIN was GENERATED BY THE DEALER, along with the dealer's Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number
[OK]
[Do-It!]
(You just "introduced" yourself to ECU#2 and the ECU should listen to you since you knew how to login. The ECU is now ready to learn its new home.)
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter 50 in Channel Number
[Read]
[Use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
Enter the 7-digit PIN from ECU#1, Date on which the PIN was GENERATED BY THE DEALER, along with the dealer's Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number
[OK]
[Test]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
(You just told ECU#2 that it has a new home, and that it should make friends with the Instrument Cluster.)
Verify that the VIN now displayed in the "Extra" field in the Engine matches matches the VIN now displayed in the "Extra" field in the Instrument Cluster controller.
Turn ignition OFF and then back on within one minute, but do not start vehicle for two minutes
After 2 minutes, start the vehicle
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
Verify that the 5-digit Soft. Coding matches the coding from the old ECU
[Fault Codes - 02]
Clear all DTC's.
Instrument cluster swapping w/immobilizer 3
This procedure details how to install a NEW Instrument Cluster in Immobilizer-equipped VW/Audi vehicles with Immobilizer III (2002+ Golf. Jetta, New Beetle, Passat). As of 11 Mar. 2002, VW and Audi are providing 7-digit Secret Key Codes in place of the earlier 4-digit SKC's. Keys must be coded using the new 7-digit SKC (secret key code) method unless the owner still has the correct 4-digit code.
Immo-3 knows your car's VIN. Access 17-Instruments (or separate 25-Immobilizer on vehicles that are set up that way) and look at the first "Extra" field.
If you see something like: "Immo-ID VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got Immo-2 (or maybe even Immo-1 in earlier non-US models).
If you see something like "WVZKB58001H231169 VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got
Immo-3. The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID.
Procedure for installing a NEW Instrument Cluster in vehicles with Immobilizer III:
With the OLD Instrument Cluster in the vehicle, write down the current mileage.
(Volkswagens only, if you are working on an Audi, skip to step 3)
[Select]
[Display] (Less Common Modules)
[19 - CAN Gateway]
Write down the 5 digit number from the "Soft. Coding" field, make note that is the CAN number.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
Write down the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number from the "Extra" field and the 5 digit number from the "Soft. Coding" field, make note that is the OLD Instrument Cluster Coding.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
(If you have a 2002+ Audi, write down the current Adaptation values for Channels 60 through 70, if available)
Take that 14-digit Immobilizer ID number (along with your VIN number) to your dealer and request your seven-digit SKC, along with the workshop code and importer number ( the workshop code and importer number can be found in the upper-right corner of the Administration screen of the dealer's VAS 5051).
Install the new Instrument Cluster.
Measure the car's battery voltage, it must be 12.5 V or higher.
(Volkswagens only, if you are working on an Audi, skip to step 8)
[Select]
[Display] (Less Common Modules)
[19 - CAN Gateway]
[Recode - 07]
Enter the 5 digit number that you wrote down as the CAN number.
[Do It!]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Recode - 07]
Enter the 5 digit number that you wrote down as the Instrument Cluster Coding.
[Do It!]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter 50 in Channel Number
[Read]
[Use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
Enter the 7-digit PIN from the OLD Instrument Cluster, Date on which the PIN was GENERATED BY THE DEALER, along with the dealer's Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number
[OK]
VCDS will validate the data you have entered and return you to the Adaptation screen, where the New Value will show as "XXXXX".
[Test]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Switch ignition off and then back on within one minute but do not start vehicle.
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
Verify that the VIN now displayed in the "Extra" field is the same as the VIN of the vehicle.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
You can check to make sure a key has the correct electronics in it so that it can be matched to the Immobilizer by:
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Group 022
[Go!]
The value in field 3 must be 1. If value is not 1, the key is not capable of being adapted to Immobilizer. You can check each key in this manner.
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Group 024
[Go!]
Any numbers displayed in fields 1-4 represent the time in minutes that must be counted down before the Immobilizer is unlocked. If the fields are all zero, skip to step 16. If the Immobilizer is locked:
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Do not switch off the ignition! Allow the car to sit for AT LEAST the number of minutes that were indicated by the display in Group 024
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Group 024
[Go!]
Make sure all fields are zero.
[Done, Go Back]
[Login - 11]
[Use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
Enter the 7-digit PIN from the OLD Instrument Cluster, Date on which the PIN was generated by the dealer, along with the Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number of the dealer that generated the code.
[OK]
VCDS will validate the data you have entered and return you to the Login screen, where the Login Code will show as "XXXXX".
[Do It!]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter 21 in "Channel Number"
[Read]
The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.
Enter "new value" of 0
[Save]
This clears out the old key-matchings.
Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Switch ignition off and remove key
Insert next key to ignition and switch ignition on again
The warning light for the Immobilizer will light up for ~2 seconds, then go out
Switch ignition off and remove key
Repeat step 20 with each key until all keys have been matched.
--- Entering the Mileage in the New Cluster ---
If you are live in a market where the odometer reading is in miles, you should change to km before entering the mileage. To do this, consult the Factory Repair Manual for your vehicle. Here is an example:
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Recode - 07]
Change the 3rd digit from a "2" (US) to a "3" (Canada)
[Do It!]
Confirm that the odometer in the car now shows kilometers, not miles.
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter "channel number" 09 to select channel
Put in the number of km divided by 10. Example: If old cluster had 50,357 km, put in 5036.
Note: Some clusters may require a Login of 13861 before you can set the mileage.
[Test]
Observe the Instrument Cluster and make sure the mileage displayed is correct. Once you save this value, you will be unable to change the mileage EVER!
[Save]
If you are live in a market where the odometer reading is in miles, you should now change back to miles. To do this, consult the Factory Repair Manual for your vehicle. Here is an example:
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Recode - 07]
Change the 3rd digit from a "3" (Canada) to a "2" (US)
[Do It!]
Confirm that the odometer in the car now shows miles, not kilometers. Make sure that the mileage reading is correct.Note: If you are installing an instrument cluster that has ever been installed in another car, you must insert the following step. Also, bear in mind that you will not be able to change the mileage of a cluster that has more than 100 km on the odometer):
8.5 [Login - 11]
[Use 7-digit PIN/SKC]
Enter the 7-digit PIN for the USED Instrument Cluster, Date on which the PIN was generated by the
dealer, along with the Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number of the dealer that generated
the code.
[OK]
This should effectively "wipe out" the previous matching.
Immo-3 knows your car's VIN. Access 17-Instruments (or separate 25-Immobilizer on vehicles that are set up that way) and look at the first "Extra" field.
If you see something like: "Immo-ID VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got Immo-2 (or maybe even Immo-1 in earlier non-US models).
If you see something like "WVZKB58001H231169 VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got
Immo-3. The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID.
022 Engine Start Permitted ECU Responding Key condition OK Number of adapted keys 1= Yes
car can be driven
0=No
key is not or matched or incorrectly matched or the Engine Control Module is incorrectly adapted or malfunctioning1 = Yes
communications with ECU OK (whether ECU is matched or not)
0 = No
it will not be possible to match the Immo to the ECU at this time.1 = Yes
a legitimate transponder code could be read (whether it was authorized or not)
0 = No
it will not be possible to match this particular key!Maximum of 8 Keys 023 Variable Code Matched Transponder Status Fixed Code Authorized Immobilizer Status 1 = Yes
0 = No
variable code is not matched -- key's code algorithm is not yet the same as in the instrument cluster.1 = Yes
Transponder in key is locked. Key can no longer be adapted to a different Immobilizer System.
0 = No
Transponder in key is not locked. Key has not yet been adapted to Instrument Cluster
(new replacement key)1 = Yes
0 = No
fixed transponder code of key is not authorized.4 = New or replacement part cluster, not matched/ adapted
5 = Customer service locked; adaptation data programmed
6 = Immobilizer adapted, normal operating condition
7 = Key adaptation in progress via scan-tool024 Cluster Lock Time ECU Lock Time Not used Transponder Lock Time 0 to 255 minutes
Indicates how much time must pass before another attempt to perform a Login can be made. If SKC data used to perform a Login is incorrect, the lock time starts at 10 minutes0 to 255 minutes
Indicates how much time must pass before an another attempt to match the ECU can be made at Adaptation channel 50 can be made again. If SKC data used to match ECU at adaptation channel 50 is incorrect, the lock time starts at 10 minutes.0 to 10 minutes
Indicates how much time must pass before a transponder recognition is possible again. This lock is activated after an unauthorized key is detected 20 times in a row.Note: Lock times only count down while the ignition is ON. If you've managed to accumulate long lock times, you may want to connect a battery charger to the car while letting it count down