NOTE: This was performed on my demo engine out of the car. If you can provide additional tips, corrections, or pictures showing this procedure in the car, please post in the myturbodiesel.com TDI forums and help improve the article! This demo engine was partially paid for with site donations, please use the donate button above so I can provide more great DIY!
Here is the EGR cooler on the back of the engine by itself for illustration. (click to enlarge thumbnail) One of the coolant hoses (on left of pic) was bent on this engine.
T30 torx screwdriver
8 and 10mm triple square (12 point) driver
10, 12, 27mm sockets
Pinch the sides of the crankcase vent hose to release either end and unplug the hose heating element plug. Move any wiring aside as you work and label the plug ends with tape for ease of installation. (click to enlarge the thumbnail)
Remove the single torx screw holding the turbo inlet adapter in place and rotate the black plastic adapter towards the firewall to remove. Remove the 3x T30 torx bolts holding the low pressure EGR tube and the 2x T30 holding the turbo outlet adapter (VW calls this a noise dampener). Also remove the hot air intake tube (the heater hose tube going to the silver pipe). It wasn't removed here because I had enough clearance but you should remove it if the engine is in the car. Its bolt is visible below.
Remove the low pressure EGR filter. It's held with 2 bolts to the EGR cooler and a v-band clamp on the other end. Since my demo engine was out of the car, I'm not sure how much clearance there is but it looks like you should be able to get the EGR cooler out above the axle and through the space where the EGR filter was.
On the back of the engine below the turbo, remove the heat shield from the EGR cooler valve and remove its plug. (Ignore the arrow below right for the exhaust gas temperature sensor, this pic is also used in another writeup).
Remove the 2x 10mm 12 point bolts to free the low pressure EGR tube and set aside. (The lower EGR coolant pipe was damaged and is bent). Clamp off the EGR cooler coolant hoses to minimize coolant loss. If the hoses are old and brittle, drain some coolant at the radiator into a clean bucket for reuse (discard the first squirt since it'll probably have dirt in it).
Unplug the pressure sensor and its 1x T30 bracket bolt. Remove the right 12mm nut holding the exhaust manifold heat shield holding down the sensor line bracket. Remove the bottom of the pressure line, the union is 14 mm. (click to enlarge the thumbnail) You may be able to work around it once it's loose instead of completely removing it.
I believe you can get the EGR cooler out without removing the turbo oil drain line. However, if you do decide to remove it, the bottom banjo bolt is 27mm. There is 1x 16mm bolt w/stud and a bracket and 2x 10mm bolts at the turbo CHRA (the center housing). The inner oil line bolt doesn't have much clearance so you have to use a 1/4" drive socket here. (click to enlarge thumbnail).
The cooler is held with 4x T30 bolts. The two on the coolant hose and valve side are long. The two on the cooler body side are short. Here is the cooler removed. Note: The damaged and bent metal hose was removed. The metal hoses aren't easily removed so remove the hose clamp to get the coolant hose off.
If you only lost a cup or less of coolant, you can top it off with distilled water. If you need much more, only use VW/Audi G12 coolant and distilled water. Do not use green prestone type coolant or else it will sludge!
exhaust manifold nuts: 17 ft-lb (23Nm), coat threads with antiseize
oil feed unions: 16 ft-lb (22Nm)
oil drain 2x10mm bolts: 11 ft-lb (15Nm)
oil drain bracket bracket bolt-stud: 15 ft-lb (20Nm)
27mm oil drain banjo bolt: 44 ft-lb (60Nm)
2x T30 turbo inlet and outlet adapter bolts: (6-7 ft-lb)
exhaust v-band clamp: 5 ft-lb
If you have more questions about turbo installation or calibration, please ask in the myturbodiesel forums linked at the top or search below: