The aluminum motor mount can fail due to stripped threads, over or undertorque of the bolts, or need replacement due to a cracked engine mount tab on the block. The old part number is no longer sold by VW but you may be able to find a used one. The bolts and their torque are different. The old style motor mount is slightly better because you can remove the timing belt if needed. (You still have to remove the mount for a timing belt job since you can't get the water pump or tensioner off, but you can slip the belt off for whatever reason). I wouldn't replace the mount with the newer style unless there is a problem.
The old motor mount is shown below left. The newer style mount is right. The difference is that the front bolt uses the hole by the water pump. If the tab on the engine block for the upper rear hole cracks, you can use a van gogh bracket from dieselgeek.com to repair it. (linked below) It will not work with the old style mount.
If you use a van gogh bracket you shouldn't need a new style EGR cooler although a few have. If you do need one, part number 03g 131 512 ad should work. If you need the new EGR cooler you will also need some VW or generic G12 coolant. Do not use generic green replacement coolant with VW's coolant because it will sludge.
The tightening order is explained in the final section, torque specs.
Here are two more views of the new style motor mount.
old style motor mount: 03g 199 207 f
old style bolts:
-(qty 1) n 106 558 02
-(may not be right, qty 2) n 907 124 03
new style motor mount: 03g 199 207 g
new style bolts:
-(qty 1) n 106 558 02
-(qty 2) n 106 666 01
13mm socket and torque wrench
engine support and jack
Van gogh engine mount bracket repair (from dieselgeek.com, for upper rear hole block mounting tab repair)
Loosen the passenger side (right side) lug nuts. Raise the car, chock the rear wheels, rest the car securely on jack stands, and make sure the car is safe and secure before doing anything else. I use 2 sets of jack stands, minimum - one at the factory jack points to carry the weight of the car and another almost touching the front subframe as a backup.
Remove the passenger side wheel's lug nuts and remove the wheel.
Remove the 2 piece plastic engine cover. It just pulls straight off. I suggest using compressed air to clean the engine bay.
Remove the serpentine belt, serpentine belt tensioner, coolant reservoir, and windshield washer reservoir. See 1000q: BRM Jetta TDI timing belt removal for details and pictures. You don't have to remove the timing belt, you are just doing the first quarter of the procedure.
You must support the engine before removing the motor mount. The factory service manual says to use a support from above. I found that my engine support bar wouldn't fit without an extension because there was no space on the fender for it. You can use this style of engine support if you have an extension arm to move the support hook/chain towards the front of the car about 5".
You can also make your own out of some sturdy wood and chains.
Put shackles or large+thick bolt/nut through chains and securely hang them by the lift points. The passenger side lift point is in front of the engine above the alternator (green highlight below) and the driver's side lift point is above the turbo (next few pictures). If you remove the bolt highlighted in red below you can put a chain/shackle through it as well.
The official driver's side lift
point is behind the vacuum pump. To get to the driver's side lift point,
remove the turbo intake hose, crankcase vent heater plug, and breather hose
(green arrow in the next pic). You need a remote operated hose clamp
pliers to get to the lower clamp due to clearance. Because of the hassle,
you should be OK to use the pass side lift point to support the weight of the
engine + another backup.
The official lift point is highlighted in green below. Because I was using the
support bar as the additional method of supporting the car I just used the
passenger side lift as shown above.
I used a block of wood on the oil pan and
a hydraulic floor jack as the primary method of supporting the engine and the engine support bar
as an additional backup. Why use a backup? Hydraulic jacks are for raising, not
holding, and can suddenly fail. Never put yourself in a position where you could be injured if a hydraulic
jack fails. Never put the jack directly on an
oil pan, especially because the oil pan is aluminum. You can also cut
a small groove in the top of the wood to hold the oil pan securely.
Raise the engine slightly to get the engine's weight off the motor mount bolts. This helps prevent stripping the aluminum motor mount threads. I suggest a neutral position on the mount. If you lift the engine about 1/5" the mount will be about neutral.
Remove the motor mount alignment plate (2x 13mm bolts), (2x 16mm) fender-mount bolts, and the (2x 18mm) mount-mount bolts. Ignore the torque specs, they are for installation. Loosen all the bigger bolts before removing them to help hold the mount steady while you loosen the other bolts. Note the alignment of the mount and bolt holes.
The new mount will not have marks from the old bolts that show where they were. Basically, the upper part of the mount has oval holes for the
18mm bolts so that the engine can be aligned relative to the mount. You can measure the distance between the mount section to check alignment. It should be straight.
Now remove the 3x 16mm mount-block horizontal bolts. Remove
the upper-right longer bolt from above. The lower shorter bolt can be
removed from below. The middle longer bolt can be removed through the access
hole pictured earlier. You should be able to access it without removing the
entire plastic wheel well liner. Remove the mount-block mount.
Release the EGR cooler. If there is not sufficient clearance, remove it. Some coolant will spill out. Make sure to only use VW's G12 or generic G12 coolant! Mixing it with the green stuff will sludge the system. It may be possible to remove the EGR cooler without removing the intake.
If you need to use the van gogh bracket, attach it now.
Installation is the reverse of removal. As mentioned earlier, note the vertical 18mm motor mount bolt alignments when installing the engine or else the engine will be crooked. The fender mount holes are oval so the 18mm bolts have some play to twist the engine.
The old style mount bolts were torqued to 33 ft-lbs. If you are reusing the old mount, this should be OK. If you are using the new style mount with new style bolts, use the following stages. This keeps the stress even.
stage 1: tighten each to 33 ft-lbs (40 Nm) in the order: 1 upper left, 2 right, 3 lower. This is also shown on the first picture on this page.
stage 2: tighen each another 1/4 turn in the same order.
stage 3: tighten each another 1/4 turn in the same order.
You can use a marker or paint on the bolts to indicate their starting and ending position.
Also refer to this TSB regarding the torque specs (click to enlarge).
If you have any questions about replacing the motor mount, feel free to ask in the forums linked at the top or search below. Here was one person's experience with this issue which you can find useful: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f7/hello-2006-broken-eng-mounts-norcal-5869/