Wheel bearing and hub replacement - VW - symptoms and noises

May 11, 2015
Wheel bearing and hub replacement - VW - symptoms and noises
  • Wheel bearing and hub replacement - mk5-mk6 VW and NMS Passat

    This DIY shows how to remove and replace a bad front wheel bearing and how to test for noise. A mk5 Jetta is shown but it also applies to mk5/6 Golf, Sportwagen, and more Volkswagens.

    The front wheel bearings come with the hub assembly and are not sold separately.

    Make sure to read the section about the axle bolt! Not torquing it correctly will lead to wheel bearing damage because the bearing will not be loaded correctly!

    Below is my video showing wheel bearing noise and bearing replacement - please read this article fully for any updates or corrections to this article!


    27mm 6 point socket for the axle (may need 24mm 12 point, check first)
    metric sockets and wrenches)
    impact wrench (preferred)
    4 jack stands, wheel chocks, and hydraulic jacks
    PB Blaster
    torque wrench

    replacement wheel bearing with hub (these all appear to be valid part numbers but double check with your vendor!)
    NOTE - "FAG" is the OEM supplier for VW wheel bearings - they are identical to the ones you can get from the dealer but without the VW stamp. Their part number is "713 6106 10" or "WBK5456".

    Here is the wheel bearing kit from kermatdi


    Remove the center cap and loosen the axle bolt a quarter turn with a 27mm 6 point socket or a 24mm 12 point socket (a 15/16" also works) depending on which type of bolt you have, and a breaker bar. If you're changing both sides (not needed unless they're both bad) before raising the car to keep the car stable. Spray the spline/axle area with PB Blaster to loosen any rust and lubricate the axle. You have to slide it out and the PB Blaster needs time to soak.

    Don't remove the wheel bolts until the car is safely lifted and secured on jack stands. Here is where the jack stand points were on my car: 1000q: 2006 mk5 Jetta jack stand points. Firmly shake the car by hand and double check the jack stands once raised to make sure it's secure. Then you can remove the lug bolts and remove the wheel.

    Remove the brake caliper and rotor. See 1000q: mk5 Jetta front brake job for details.

    Use a long socket with some padding on the end or a loosely threaded axle bolt (back it off a few turns so there's a tiny gap for it to move) with a big hammer and push the axle out a little bit. You only need to break any corrosion loose. It doesn't matter if you damage the wheel bearing splines since it's part of the hub and you're going to replace it anyways, but you don't want to deform the axle threads. I like to do this before removing the ball joint because it's a little more stable.

    Once you loosen the axle you can remove the 3x 16mm nuts holding the ball joint to the lower control arm. Press the control arm down to separate them.

    Now you can push the axle the rest of the way out. It won't come out unless the ball joint has been disconnected. Again, I do it in this order because it's more stable - don't try to force the axle all the way out without removing the ball joint because there's isn't enough clearance. Once the axle is out, support it with string or wire. It's fine if it's resting against the lower control arm but don't let it hang off to the side.

    Loosen the 4x 12 point bolts holding the wheel bearing housing. Below is a pic taken after replacement - you can see the new bolts. After they come out, thread them back a few turns in and hit on the heads to push the wheel bearing out. NOTE - do NOT use a torx bit or long extension. They will be very tight and any twisting can cause them to strip and this is a very difficult spot to drill out a bolt.

    Clean out the hub and axle splies so that the wheel bearing and axle will sit straight.

    Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure you use new hub-bearing bolts because these are single use bolts and if they fail your wheel will fall off.

    3x ball joint nuts - (60Nm) 44 ft lbs *CAUTION - the bentley service manual has a typo - it says 52 ft-lb but double checking it against Nm in 2 places confirms it's 44 ft-lb)
    27mm 6 point axle bolt - 148 ft lbs. Then, once car is on ground, +180 degree turn. (always replace)
    24mm (15/16" also works) 12 point axle bolt - 52 ft lbs. Then, once car is on ground, +90 degree turn. (always replace)
    4x wheel bearing bolts - 52 ft-lbs + 90 degree turn (always replace)
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