Turbo removal CRD VW and Audi TDI 2.0L engine

Nov 18, 2015
Turbo removal CRD VW and Audi TDI 2.0L engine
  • How to remove or install the turbo on 2009+ VW TDI and Audi TDI 2.0L engine: CJAA/CBEA

    difficulty: 2/5

    Introduction

    NOTE: This was performed on my demo engine out of the car. If you can provide additional tips, corrections, or pictures showing this procedure in the car, please post in the myturbodiesel.com TDI forums and help improve the article! If you are doing this on a Passat, please use this article as a guide to make a new wiki article! You may have to remove the DPF for clearance to get the turbo out but I'm not sure on this point. Site donations helped pay for this demo engine, please use the donate button above so I can provide more great DIY!

    The stock turbo on CBEA/CJAA engines sold on VW TDI and Audi TDI 2.0L engines 2009-2014 was the Borg Warner BV43. The VW part number is # 03L 253 056. NOTE: Early 2009 models built before about 6/2009 used a different turbo compressor outlet adapter which doesn't fit later engines. These require the new style adapter VW# 03L 131 111 q.

    The Passat uses a different turbo and there's a lot more clearance behind the engine to get the turbo out.

    If you're having turbo issues, the problem could just be limp mode or low power. See the links for the FAQ articles and a diagnosis checklist.

    Parts

    T30 torx screwdriver
    8 and 10mm triple square (12 point) driver
    10, 12, 27mm sockets

    (Engine in car)* additional tools needed
    t25 torx bit
    10, 12, 13, 16mm wrenches
    13mm scocket
    Flat head screw driver
    Small pry bar (larger flat head screwdriver that you don't care about.)
    Ratchet extentions
    2x 4"
    1x 8"
    1x rotation knuckle

    Turbo removal procedure on CBEA and CJAA engine
    Remove the exhaust v-band clamp from the turbo exhaust side going to the DPF and any intake piping from the intake side. Because this was a demo engine, I'm not sure if you have to remove the EGR filter for cleraance to work or if there's any room to get the turbo out from below. You may have to loosen an axle. The EGR filter appears to be held with 2 bolts and a v-band exhaust clamp. Otherwise, remove the turbo from the top.
    (Engine in car)* Removal of the EGR is required to access all of the bolts and fittings if the engine is in the car and easily is removed from the bottom of the vehicle.

    [​IMG]

    Pinch the sides of the crankcase vent hose to release either end and unplug the hose heating element plug. Unplug the VNT actuator sensor plug. Unplug the exhaust gas temp probe plug. Move any wiring aside as you work and label the plug ends with tape for ease of installation. (click to enlarge the thumbnail)
    turbo-1.jpg

    Remove the single torx screw holding the turbo inlet adapter in place and rotate the black plastic adapter clockwise (tilt towards the firewall) to remove. Remove the 3x T30 torx bolts holding the low pressure EGR tube and the 2x T30 holding the turbo outlet adapter (VW calls this a noise dampener). Also remove the hot aux air intake tube (the heater hose going to the silver pipe). It wasn't removed here because I had enough clearance but you should remove it if the engine is in the car. Its bolt is visible below.
    [​IMG]

    On the back of the engine below the turbo, remove the heat shield from the EGR cooler valve and remove its plug. Remove the exhaust gas temp probe on the exhaust manifold or its plug end. The probe is shown below. Its black plug has 2 pins.
    (Engine in car)* Removal of the EGT probe is required for clearance to remove the turbo from the top of the engine compartment. It also allows for the pressure sensor line to be bent out of the way in a future step.

    [​IMG]

    Remove the 2x 10mm 12 point bolts to free the low pressure EGR tube and set aside. (One of the EGR coolant pipes was damaged and is bent).
    [​IMG]

    Unplug the pressure sensor and its 1x T30 bracket bolt. Remove the 2x 12mm nuts holding the exhaust manifold heat shield but do not attempt to remove the shield yet. Remove the bottom of the pressure line, the union is 14mm. (click to enlarge the left picture) The sensor comes out with its line.
    (Engine in car)* You do not need to remove this line it can simply be bent to the rear and out of the way to remove the heat shield.

    turbo-5.jpg

    Loosen the turbo oil feed line. You only need to remove the union at the turbo (17mm) and two brackets holding the oil feed line in place. (The curved silver pipe above the arrows is the aux air intake tube you removed earlier). This should give you enough play to gently bend the oil line out of the way during removal. If it creases and becomes damaged, do NOT attempt to reuse the oil feed line or else the turbo will fail from oil starvation. The feed end is at the oil filter but you shouldn't have to loosen that end.
    (Engine in car)* The supporting bracket that the oil feed line is bolted to must be removed using a 13mm wrench to facilitate removing the turbo from the car if the engine is still in the vechile.

    [​IMG]

    Loosen the high pressure EGR line. Remove the 2x 12mm nuts at the exhaust manifold (shown in above pic) and 1x 8mm 12 point bolt (below right) holding the line on a bracket. Loosen the 2x 10mm 12 point bolts at the intake valve (below left) or just remove them. This will give you enough play to get the turbo out.
    [​IMG]

    Remove the turbo oil drain line. The bottom banjo bolt is 27mm. There is 1x 16mm bolt w/stud and a bracket and 2x 10mm bolts at the turbo CHRA (where the gasket is). The inner oil line bolt doesn't have much clearance so you have to use a 1/4" drive socket here. (click to enlarge thumbnail) The drain line can flex somewhat at the midpoint.
    turbo-drain-line.jpg

    You now have clearance to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.

    Remove the remaining 8x 12mm nuts holding the exhaust manifold to the head and the turbo can now be removed. It is easier to remove if you have a shallow, medium, and deep socket 12mm with 2 4" extentions and a pivot head/ pivoting ratchet.
    (Engine in car)* With the DPF losened up and pushed to the rear of the vehicle there is enough room to access all of the bolts on the right side using a 1/4 drive ratchet and medium socket.

    (click to enlarge thumbnail)
    turbo-8.jpg

    (Engine in car)* After the Turbo is unbolted from the engine it is removed from the top of the engine. In order to remove the turbo you must remove the two bolts on the bottom of the transmission that secure it to the K member. Removing these bolts allows the engine to rotate about 1/2 to 1" and allows the turbo to be removed though the top of the engine compartment.


    Installation is the reverse of removal. The exhaust manifold gasket should only go on 1 way, with the printed OEM part number facing outwards. (click to enlarge thumbnail)
    turbo-9.jpg

    Make sure the oil feed and drain lines are not under tension during installation. Before installing the turbo oil feed line, pour some oil into the center housing and gently spin the turbo wheels by hand to help spread the oil. Immediately before starting the engine, disable the engine from starting and crank in 4-5 second intervals to prime the oil lines. Once you're satisfied the oil lines are primed, enable engine start.

    Torque specs:
    exhaust manifold nuts: 17 ft-lb (23Nm), coat threads with antiseize

    oil feed unions: 16 ft-lb (22Nm)
    oil drain 2x10mm bolts: 11 ft-lb (15Nm)
    oil drain bracket bracket bolt-stud: 15 ft-lb (20Nm)
    27mm oil drain banjo bolt: 44 ft-lb (60Nm)

    2x T30 turbo inlet and outlet adapter bolts: (6-7 ft-lb)
    exhaust v-band clamp: 5 ft-lb


    (Engine in car)* Updated for when the engine is in the car and was last performed by michael floren on 2015-11-18 with a 2011 VW Jetta TDI Sportwagen.
  • Loading...
alexpolo and Brettimus_Prime like this.