rear shock and spring replacement-mk5+

Feb 14, 2016
rear shock and spring replacement-mk5+
  • Rear shock and spring installation and replacement - for mk5 and newer VW/Audi

    This article shows rear shock and spring replacement for mk5 and newer VW and Audi A3, Golf, Sportwagen, and Jetta


    Introduction
    Please refer to the Front strut and spring install DIY for the full introduction.

    Parts
    One use only bolts (assuming both front and rear, left and right sides)

    (quantity 4) VW# n 910 661 01 upper mount bolts (pictured as #12)
    (quantity 2) VW# n 910 274 01 lower mount bolt (pictured as #8)
    (quantity 2) VW# n 106 286 01 lower control arm outer bolt (not shown)
    (quantity 2) VW# n 101 064 02 lower control arm outer nut (not shown)

    I bought my springs and shocks from kermatdi.com

    Rear suspension parts

    (quantity 2) VW# 1k0 511 353p sport 133mm rear bump stops (pictured #2)
    (quantity 2) VW# 1k0 511 353f lowered 118mm rear bump stops (pictured #2)
    (quantity 2) VW# 1k0 512 149b upper spring perch (pictured #4)
    (quantity 2) VW# 1k0 512 297c lower spring perch (buffer block) (pictured #5)
    (quantity 2) VW# 1k0 513 353h rear strut mount (pictured #11)
    (quantity 2) VW# 1k0 513 167 support ring (pictured #10)
    (quantity 2) VW# 1k0 513 425 protective pipe (pictured #14)
    [​IMG]

    Procedure
    Work on one end of the car at a time if you don't have a lift. Here is where the jack stand points were on my car: 1000q: 2006 mk5 Jetta jack stand points. Firmly shake the car by hand and double check the jack stands once raised to make sure it's secure. Then you can remove the lug bolts and remove the wheel.

    CAUTION - do not rest the jack stands on the suspension or non factory jack points! These can act like a fulcrum or move and cause the car to fall down. You need the suspension to be able to move while you work on it. Always use the factory jack points as specified in the service manual. Then chock the wheels, apply the parking brake, and make sure the car is safe and secure before working on it! Never get under the car while it's supported by hydraulic jacks since these can fail - these are for raising the car only. This article is not a substitute for the factory service manual or the services of a professional mechanic. See the TOS Agreement for the full legal disclaimer.

    Here's a short video summarizing the process. Make sure to read the detailed DIY here for full notes, corrections, and updates to the video.


    To get access to the lower shock bolt, you must first remove the spring. If you have a spring compressor that will fit, great, otherwise loosen the 18mm bolt/nut holding the lower control arm to the rear hub. Slightly compress the suspension arm near the hub end with a jack (there are some grooves where it should be secure) to hold the arm and prevent it from snapping down or use spring compressors to clamp the springs. Make sure the car doesn't shift off the jack stands. Remove the bolt/nut and slowly release the jack. The spring can now be removed. Make sure to note the installation position - bottom coil's start rests in a pocket in the lower control arm. There's a rubber nub on the underside of the LCA to indicate the position.

    Remove 2 bolts at the top of the strut and one at the bottom and it will come out. If your car is equipped with HID levelers, remove it.
    rear-shock-jetta.jpg

    Remove the lower strut bolt from the hub.
    rear-spring-vw.jpg

    With the shock off the car, the top mount has to come off.
    You can use an offset wrench to grab the nut while you counterhold the shaft. If you have an impact wrench, it makes life much easier because you can just zip off the nut.
    rear-shock-nut.jpg

    Transfer the stuff over. The rear shock upper mounts really don't go bad but the fronts do - the fronts have a lot more load and forces acting on them. If your rear bump stops aren't in good pliable condition, definitely replace them. They're holding the dust boot up.
    vw-koni-fsd-shock.jpg

    Counterhold the shaft with a 7mm allen while you tighten the nut. I have a set of pass through gearwrench sockets that allows this. The offset wrench shown earlier will also work.
    rear-strut-wrench.jpg

    NOTE - The rear suspension components must be tightened in the fully loaded curb weight resting position. There are some rubber bushings that will be preloaded and fail if they're tightened in the extended position. Use a hydraulic jack to move the lower control arm and hand thread and then tighten the bolts in the curb weight position.

    CAUTION- the Bentley manual has a typo, the correct torque for the lower strut bolt is 133 ft lbs, not 33. If the strut falls off you will not be a happy camper.

    Torque specs for rear
    2x upper mount bolts - 37 ft lbs + 45 degree turn (always replace)
    1x lower strut bolt - 133 ft lbs (tighten at curb weight position)
    18mm outer lower control arm nut and bolt - 66 ft-lb+ 90 degree turn. (always replace) (tighten at curb weight position)

    Drive around for a day to let the suspension settle and then get an alignment. If your car is equipped with self leveling HIDs, and you lowered the car or replaced the bushings, use a vag-com to reset it.
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