CBEA/CJAA VW Jetta, Golf, JSW TDI timing belt removal-part 1
2009+ VW Jetta, Golf, JSW, Audi A3 TDI timing belt removal
This DIY shows how to remove the timing belt on CJAA, CBEA 2.0L TDI engine VW Jetta, Golf, Sportwagen, and Audi A3 TDI 2009+
difficulty level: 3/5
The article is divided into three parts: parts 1 and 2 show how to remove the timing belt. Part 3 shows installation, final checks, and torque specs and is part of the premium members section. If you found parts 1 and 2 useful, please upgrade your account and help support the site! The factory service manual says that the timing belt should be replaced every 120,000 miles. The CJAA engine is shown but the CBEA engine belt replacement procedure is identical. The CBEA engine is found in 2009 VW Jetta and Sportwagen TDI and 2010-2013 Audi A3 TDI. All other 4 cylinders sold in North America (2010+ Jetta, 2010-2014 Golf, 2010-2014 Sportwagen) use the CJAA engine. The 2012+ Passat uses a similar engine and the only major difference is in the tensioner. Please make a new article if you are doing this on a Passat!
Disclaimer - this article is revised and updated to include the most current information but is not a substitute for the factory service manual! See the TOS Agreement for the full legal disclaimer. Although a timing belt job can successfully be done with basic tools plus the timing belt tools and basic mechanical experience, faulty installation of the timing belt can cause severe engine damage so take all precautions listed in your factory service manual. Difficulty is rated 3/5 and it will take the average person 1 day to finish. An experienced mechanic familiar with this exact engine and with air tools/lift should be done in ~3-4 hours for just the timing belt job.
If you find the tips on this page helpful, please use the donation button at the top so that I can continue to keep publishing great articles. The service manual is about $80 and doesn't even mention most of the tips here. This page has color photos, more detail, and videos. Even if you're just reading this to know what to ask the mechanic, I'm sure you'll find this page very helpful. The demo engine was partially paid for with site donations and your donation will go into the site! Thank you in advance!
If you've never done a TDI engine, the main difference is that you must buy/rent/borrow the timing belt tools. You can use a large adjustable 2 pin spanner to turn the camshaft sprocket and the camshaft and HPFP sprocket pins can be substituted with any pin of equivalent diameter and length. The dimensions are listed below. However, the crankshaft lock is a finely machined fit and is required to set the timing with precision. My universal sprocket bar couldn't fit the high pressure fuel pump sprocket because the bolt heads were in the way (as yours probably will too) so I used an aftermarket sprocket counterhold bar for TDI engines.
If you're not familiar with the engine bay, label each plug or wire with a piece of tape and marker. It can serve as a visual check that you put everything back and is a handy reminder, especially if you are doing other maintenance items over more than 1 day. See 1000q: tips for the mechanic for more handy tips. Please read all of the instructions in the factory service manual thoroughly and the tips here before attempting the timing belt replacement. If any pictures are not showing up or you have any questions, please comment at the forums: myturbodiesel.com forums. If you are not comfortable that you can successfully do this job after reading the instructions in your factory service manual and the tips on this page, take it to an experienced TDI mechanic!
Timing belts cannot be visually inspected for anything other than obvious major wear. A visual inspection can only show any obvious major wear immediately before failure. Timing belts look fine until a tooth breaks off and engine timing is lost and engine damage results. I strongly suggest changing the timing belt, idler roller pulley, water pump, and tensioner at or before 120,000 miles, the factory recommended service interval. Make sure to change all these components because even if the new belt could last the next 120,000 miles, the other components won't.
Tools and Parts list for VW Jetta, Golf, Sportwagen TDI and Audi A3 TDI timing belt replacement
(click links to compare current prices and kit components, shipping, tax, etc. )
Timing belt kit (recommended) - click the links to see the current prices for the timing belt kits, here is one from Dieselgeek. The different kits may contain slightly different parts. Because VW contracts many components to a third party, most of the linked generic parts are made by the same supplier as genuine VW parts and are the exact same part. The kits above may vary in exactly what parts are included. Below are the individual components.
Also get some G12 coolant to replace lost coolant. (Do not use generic green coolant) ,dieselgeek (1.5 liter size, VW #ZVW 237 G12) ,available from kermatdi 1.5L size Total coolant capacity is just over 8L so you'll need 3 liters or 1 gallon of coolant concentrate when replacing the timing belt. If you wish to do a total system flush you'll need over 4 liters. The coolant is diluted 50/50 with distilled water.
CAUTION - generic parts available on ebay or other online sellers may be of questionable origin. The above linked sites are all well known and experienced TDI vendors.
CAUTION - I would not buy the or any other of this seller's copycat sites' timing belt kits or tools. They're probably low quality copycat parts! It's not worth saving $75 when it can result in thousands in engine damage! I also had a bad experience with this seller so never again.
Individual parts list for timing belt (I recommend a kit - generic parts linked here are suppliers to VW so the parts are the same, just not in VW boxes)
timing belt VW# 03L 109 119 d
timing belt tensioner VW# 03L 109 243 e
large roller VW# 03g 109 244
upper roller VW# 03L 109 244 c
lower roller VW# 038 109 244j
water pump VW# 03L 121 011 b (I suggest a metal impeller pump)
serpentine alternator/AC belt VW# 03L 903 137 e
Always replace bolts
HPFP sprocket bolts (quantity 3) VW# n 911 803 01
camshaft bolt (quantity 3) VW# n 107 158 01
15mm tensioner nut (quantity 1) VW# 038 109 454 a
16mm large roller bolt (quantity 1) VW# n 106 999 01 (manual doesn't list this as required but I suggest replacing it)
10mm triple square crankshaft pulley bolts (quantity 4) VW# n 910 488 02
13mm vertical motor mount bolts (quantity: 2, please see note in part 2) VW# n 019 502 13
16mm vertical motor mount bolt w/out stud (quantity: 1) VW# n 905 969 06
16mm vertical motor mount bolt w/stud for fuel filter bracket (quantity: 1) VW# 910 296 02
18mm vertical motor mount bolts (quantity: 2) VW# n 105 524 02
16mm horizontal motor mount bolt, marked 1 in picture of mount at bottom of page (quantity 1, 115mm long, internal torx head) VW# n 106 833 01
16mm horizontal motor mount bolt, marked 2 in picture (quantity 1, 90mm long, threaded head) VW# n 911 916 01
16mm horizontal motor mount bolt, marked 3 picture (quantity 1, 75mm long, internal torx head) VW# n 106 802 03
13mm upper roller bolt (quantity 1) VW# n 101 281 10
13mm idler roller/pulley nut (quantity 1) VW# n 015 083 15
10mm water pump bolts (quantity 3) VW# n 909 450 02
VW timing belt tools:
These tools are available as a kit from metalnerd and are distributed by dieselgeek for metalnerd. I also rent the tools as a courtesy service, see this page for details: myturbodiesel tool rental. NOTE: timing belt tensioner pin VW# T10115 is not shown. Most new tensioners include one in the box or will use a 5mm allen wrench. The service manual calls for T10265 but T10115 is the same thing with a triangle handle instead of the long handle. NOTE: my universal counterhold tool will fit the camshaft sprocket but won't fit the HPFP sprocket because the bolt heads are too close. Therefore, the metalnerd tool is shown.
Make sure to unscrew the HPFP sprocket adapter tips before using it on the camshaft! Only lightly tighten the adapter tips or else it can damage the ends! I suggest hand threading them in to reduce the risk of cross threading the adapter tips.
sprocket counterhold tool
crankshaft lock VW# T10050 (metalnerd style on left WARNING: There was a batch of VW tool T10050 which had the pointer arrow in the wrong spot to the right of the peg. It should be to the left of the peg. See this post in the forum for more details.
camshaft and HPFP pin VW# 3359 (2 required, either style works)
serpentine belt tensioner lock VW# T10060a (optional but very helpful)
10, 13, 15, 16, 18 mm sockets/wrenches. 16mm deep socket. 12 point 19mm socket or wrench
T25, T30 Torx bits/sockets
regular pliers and spring hose clamp pliers (pictured below, these are optional and are remotely operated)
wheel chocks/blocks of wood, floor car jacks, jack stands 10mm triple square bit for the harmonic balancer pulley/crankshaft pulley bolts (not a torx)
Note - triple square bits may also be called 12 point, XZN, or "serrated wrench" for 12 point metric socket head screws. You can find them at Autozone or NAPA. The Napa part numbers are: 8mm - SER2304 - $4.99, 10mm - SER2305 - $5.49, 12mm - SER2306 - $5.99 (if you want to buy a set)
VW Sportwagen TDI, Golf, Jetta and Audi A3 TDI timing belt removal procedure - part 1
The timing belt service should be done on a cool engine to set the tensioner because the tension adjusts according to temperature. Tape a service cover (an old towel works fine) to the fender to prevent scratches. If you wear a belt, jeans with metal rivets, or a watch, these can damage the paint. Secure any long hair, loose necklaces, or sleeves so they don't get caught in the engine. Always wear eye protection. Consult your factory service manual and see the TOS for the full legal disclaimer, etc.. After removing any screws or bolts, I suggest putting them back loosely so they won't get lost and so you remember where they go.
Remove the plastic engine cover by pulling-wiggling up at each corner. 4 ball-socket snaps hold it to the engine. Use some compressed air to blow out any loose dirt and sand around the engine. This will help prevent dirt from falling into your eyes and keep the new components clean.
Loosen the windshield washer fluid reservoir neck (1x 10mm bolt) so it can move around. Also refer to the following picture for the next few steps.
Disconnect the exhaust sensor, aux electric fuel pump, and coolant level sensor plugs and set them aside. VW plugs have a small lock tab which must be pressed back before pulling the plug. Sometimes you have to press the plug in very slightly before pulling it out if the lock tab is sticking.
Loosen the T30 bolt holding the exhaust sensor bracket and slide it back to release. Set aside the bracket and sensor to the rear. Again, I suggest loosely threading the bolt back so it won't get lost. In the picture below, two of the plugs and the bracket have been removed.
Drain the coolant system by removing the lower radiator hose.
Then release the spring clamp on the upper hose and remove it. If it's stuck, twist the hose to break the seal before pulling it to prevent tearing the hose. Optional: once the lower rad hose is removed, apply low pressure compressed air (like 5 psi) to the hose while plugging the reservoir port to help empty out the coolant system. A total flush is not needed unless the system is contaminated. Loosen the 2x T25 screws holding the reservoir and set it aside over the engine once you have clearance. You can also remove the hoses if you wish. It's possible to lay the reservoir on top of the engine once you've done the next few steps (without draining the coolant or disconnecting the hoses) but you have to replace the water pump during this service and now is a good time to refill the system with fresh coolant. 120,000 miles is a good time to change VW's "lifetime" coolant.
I suggest emptying the coolant into a clean bucket so that if you're short coolant you can top it off with old coolant. VW suggests a 50/50 mix (boils at 108C (226F)) but you could go as low as 40/60 coolant/water if you're in a warm climate since it'll still provide freeze protection down to -25C (-13F). (Under no circumstances should the coolant ever get close to freezing or the engine may be damaged!)
Loosen the fuel filter canister (remove center 10mm bolt and right 10mm nut (dashed line below, not visible) but only loosen the left 10mm bolt because the tab is open and it can slide out) and lay it over the engine. A stick magnet is very helpful in removing and installing these fasteners.
Some of the fuel lines are loosely held by plastic clamps, pull them out for clearance. Also pull off the single hose and plastic bracket clipped to the side of the housing.
Remove the aux electric fuel pump and bracket. First remove the 2x 10mm bolts holding the bracket top (blue arrows below). Then use a pick to press the button in the center of the plastic clip through the hole to release the lock and pull the clip up (black arrows below). You now have clearance to remove the 2x 10mm triple square (12 point) bolts holding the bracket. The reason you have to remove the plastic clip is because one of the 12 point bolts is underneath the plastic clip (visible below the arrow).
NOTE: The service manual says to disconnect the fuel lines in the next step. They're right in front of the timing belt so removal will give you much more clearance. However, if you open the fuel system you MUST flush air out of the fuel lines by running the pumps without the engine running. If you do not have VCDS, I recommend not disconnecting them and just working around them. If you leave them alone, you must carefully study this procedure and make sure the fuel lines don't get stressed or snagged in the timing belt path. Some things are moved while you're underneath the car so have an observer watch the lines above the car.
Wipe off any dirt around the fuel line connectors and gently pull/wiggle the fuel line connectors up-down to get familiar with how they feel when they're connected properly. There should be a tiny amount of vertical play and no fuel leaks. I've often noticed a very tiny bit of seepage at the connector as evidenced by the dirt sticking to it. This is considered normal but any more may be considered a leak. Disconnect the fuel lines by gently pressing BOTH buttons on the sides of the connector in while pulling the connector up. Your fingers won't fit so use a large pick on both sides at the same time. The black line with the black clamp is the supply line. The blue line with the blue clamp is the return line. Wrap clean rags around the ends of the open fuel lines and tape them in place. Try to keep the fuel hose ends pointing up and elevated so all the fuel doesn't dribble out.
Place the coolant tank/aux pump/fuel filter canister over the engine and out of the way. It should look something like this (I hadn't yet drained the coolant). You now have clearance to remove the plastic upper timing belt cover (3 metal clips - middle one stays on cover). Note how the tabs on the bottom sit and the upper part hangs over the rear timing belt cover by the camshaft sprocket.
Loosen the passenger side (right side) lug nuts. Then raise the car, chock the rear wheels, rest the car securely on jack stands, and make sure the car is safe and secure before doing anything else. I use 2 sets of jackstands, minimum - one at the factory jack points to carry the weight of the car and another almost touching the front subframe as a backup. Also see 1000q: wood blocks for another idea of supporting the car. It won't work on the passenger side since you have to remove the wheel but if you only have 1 set of jackstands you can use the pair on the passenger side.
Remove the passenger side wheel's lug nuts and remove the wheel for clearance in a later step. If you have a wheel hanger in the trunk tool kit (the black plastic rod with threads on one end), use it to support the wheel during removal after a lug is removed.
Remove the black plastic splash shield underneath the car. The Jetta/Golf/Sportwagen has 9x T25 screws (yellow arrows) and 3x T30 (white arrows) on the subframe. The T30 may have medium threadlocker on them so make sure to firmly press your torx wrench into them to avoid stripping their heads. I am told that the Audi A3 may use a T15 torx screw at the front and T20 torx screws along the sides.
Remove the serpentine belt by putting a 16mm wrench on the serpentine belt tensioner knob and turning clockwise. This will release the tension on the belt. Be careful to not insert your fingers into the belt path in case the tensioner slips. Insert VW tool T1006a or an equivalent pin through the hole shown and into the tensioner body to hold the tensioner in the loosened position.
Remove the lower-front wheel well liner by removing the white screws shown right. There's 2 more that attach it to the bumper and there may be only 1 vs. 2 at the lower-front depending on your model. Once removed, it looks like this.
Then remove the yellow torx screws shown below . You just need to bend the plastic back far enough to get access to the motor mount bolt on the other side shown below. This access hole isn't mentioned in the factory service manual. DO NOT REMOVE THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLT until you've securely supported the engine - otherwise the engine will fall down!
Optional: remove the entire wheel well liner by removing the rest of the screws. This will let you clean out the dirt that is building up behind the liner at the rear edge. The windshield drains into that area and a surprising amount of dirt can build up and cause corrosion there by holding moisture.
Remove the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer pulley/serpentine belt pulley (4x 10mm triple square bolts). One of the 10mm triple square bolts is circled in the above picture. Caution: do not remove the 19mm 12 point center crankshaft sprocket bolt! To counterhold the 4x 10mm bolts, I suggest having a helper put the manual transmission in gear and step on the brakes. This will prevent the pulley from turning and it's easier than using 2 tools in a limited space. You can also use a 19mm 12 point socket on the center crankshaft bolt to counterhold. As long as you don't apply great force to the center bolt, it will not damage the center bolt or crankshaft.
Use the 19mm 12 point crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine until right before top dead center (TDC). It should look like below (engine was out of the car for illustration). The green arrow points to the dash mark on the crankshaft sprocket. The locating bump for the crank pulley is on the lower left quadrant. There's also a small notch on the crank pulley (upper right) that can be used if you need a quick reference before taking the pulley off or for other jobs. It's not very visible and could be confused with other marks so use with caution. If it's not turning over make sure the transmission is in neutral gear. The tires should be chocked or the car should be securely supported so it's not going to roll away. Make sure nothing on top of the engine is jamming the belt.
Remove the middle and lower timing belt cover (5x 10mm bolts white arrows in above pic). The middle cover lays over the lower cover so loosen it first.
END OF PART 1, Continue to PART 2 CJAA/CBEA timing belt removal here.
Randall Raz likes this.